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Surface on left is sanded back and plank on right is current untreated not sanded surface.
Hi everyone,
First time here and looking for some advice on restoring this second hand hardwood and stainless table.
First type of wood. The seller says this is teak which I dont believe as the colour of the wood is too dark. I believe this maybe jarrah. Thoughts? The up close pictures of the surface shows sanded back surface on one piece vs the current heavily weathered surface.
Two; how to restore the wood. I planned to start by removing all slats which are screwed in. Wet the wood well and then gently pressure wash. Followed by a hardwood cleaner and light wash.
Then I planned on sanding all surfaces and saving the sandings. I require some advice on the heavy cracking on the surface. Should I fill with a clear wood glue coloured with the fine sandings as concerned a coloured putty with this level of cracking would not look nice on the surface. Alterntaively I have seen people recommend an epoxy but concerned as being outdoors partially shaded that it may discolour in the sun. But thinking uv stabilised epoxy that is applied with spatula then sanded down between coats, this would then fill the gaps and then allow the majority surface to take the stain. What would be your advice? Another option I just thought about is flip all the planks and use the surface on the bottom as the top surface. Then just reputty the holes.
Once the surface is filled then a final finish and sand. Then applying a three coats of exterior clear marine varnish sanding lightly between layers. Alternatively thinking an outdoor furniture oil like cabots exterior jarrah oil and stain.
For the stainless frame. Using a scouring pad and something like the 3m stainless steel cleaner and polish.
Thanks for your advice.
Rob
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @RobSyd. It's great to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about restoring a table.
I'm not quite sure of the timber type. Most timbers come in various colours and shades, so it would be quite hard to determine what the timber is.
Since you plan on sanding the top, I wouldn't go to the effort of using a hardwood cleaner and pressure washing; you'll be effectively sanding off that cleaned timber later.
You're correct that with the extensive cracking, a standard wood filler would be quite noticeable. You can try mixing up your own with wood glue; that would be a closer match.
Given the filler required, I'd recommend using a marine varnish to seal it all in. An oil doesn't provide as much protection.
When you say, "The surface on the left is sanded back", is that a section that was cracked, and you've already had a go at sanding it? If so, that looks terrific, and you might not need to fill it at all if those cracks are only on the surface.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hey Mitch,
Thanks for the advice. Below in the circle area is sanded with 80 grit. In regards to washing as the condition is poor with some moss buildup between the slats I am going to give both sides a good wash and wont like get between the slats to sand.
Just a question on the stability on the pva glue and sawdust in outside applications that the filling is flexible and uv stable? I think the surface with a good sand should be decent enough and only the end of the slats where there are some cracks I want to treat.
Thanks for your help.
Hi @RobSyd,
The glue is fine for exterior use, and PVA is flexible, to a certain extent. I don't think it will crack and separate like a hard filler would. Just make sure to use one of the exterior PVA glues I linked above, not an interior version.
Mitchell
Hey Mitch. I have got stuck into the table with intergrainwood cleaner and high pressure spray. Made a big big improvement but going to need to sand back alot of dead wood with some 40grit. Upon cleaning the underside a plank was heavily rotted. Cleaned the rot out but some heavy rot through the piece. Thinking to try and use outdoor epoxy to fill the space. Any recommendations on 2 part epoxy systems? Also have some other planks where the screw holes are rotten thinking to drill this out and put in a teak plug to fill the hole with epoxy.
Planks above after light 80 grit sanding.
Plank in question. Thinking I may just bite the bullet and replace but getting matching wood maybe an issue. One option was to fill and pour in resin to repair the piece.
Hi @RobSyd,
We have the Protite 250g Fibreglass Resin. Those are some fairly deep gouges, so you might need to do the filling in several applications. The teak plugs sound like a great idea for the rotten screw holes.
Replacement of the timber would likely be difficult when matching. You might like to take it to your closest Bunnings store. In the mixed-length Merbau decking, we occasionally get lighter pieces that would be a similar colour to your piece. That might be worth checking out.
Mitchell
