How to replace outdoor stair treads?

[markwatts]

 

 

morning guys,

Quick question.

I am looking to replace my stair treads (external) with new hardwood treads (already purchased)

I am wondering what to secure them to the stringers with.  Currently the treads are secured using thick screws does anyone have any ideas what the best way to do this would be?

The new treads are 250 x 50 x 1100mm 

current set up in pictures below

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @markwatts,

Thank you for your question about how to secure your new step treads to your stringers.

Before heading into your local store, I'd suggest removing one of the existing coach screws so you can measure the diameter of the hole in the stringer. You can then use this measurement to confirm compatibility with the hardware I mention below.

I prefer using a nut and bolt as it has greater holding power than a coach screw, which is what you currently have . The downside to this is you have a visible fixing on the top of the step.

If you want to use a nut and bolt, these ZENITH M12 x 75mm Hot Dip Galvanised Cup Head Bolts & Nuts should work fine, but you'll have to confirm they will fit through the holes in your stringers. If not, then an M10 bolt such as these Zenith M10 x 75mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Cup Head Bolt And Nut might work. 

The cup heads are designed to dig into the timber and sit fairly flush, so they won't be overly intrusive on the top of your step.

If you wanted to replicate what is already there so you don't have visible fixings from the top, then either these M12 x 50mm Galvanised Coach Screws or these M10 x 50mm Galvanised Coach Screws should be fine. Being 50mm long, the thickness of the bracket on your stringers will prevent them from poking through the top of the tread, meaning you get the maximum embedment possible. 

Predrilling with a suitably sized drill bit is a must. When you've selected your hardware, head to the Tool Shop so you can compare. 

If using a bolt, the drill bit should be just larger than the outside diameter of the thread so it can pass through cleanly. 

If you are using a coach screw, grab a drill bit that is roughly the same diameter as the core (the part the thread runs around) of the screw. This will ensure there is space for the screw to fit, with the thread still digging into the timber. Use a piece of tape on the drill bit to set a depth gauge for your pilot hole so you don't poke through the top of the tread.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[markwatts]

Thanks JacobZ, will give this a go.

appreciate your help

[markwatts]

Thanks Jacob,

have decided to go with the cup head bolt - how would I go about removing the bolt if/when needed? Thx Mark

[JacobZ]

Hi @markwatts,

It will embed itself into the timber, but it won't be difficult to remove. You'd simply undo the nut and tap it out with a hammer.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[markwatts]

Thanks Jacob,

my only issue with this is I tried / tested the bolts yesterday on another piece of timber and I can’t unscrew as the top is spinning when I try to unscrew

[JacobZ]

Hi @markwatts,

There is a square section behind the head that I have highlighted below.

Had this square section been embedded into the timber? 

This square section will embed itself in the timber when tightened. The square edges will prevent the top from rotating while removing the nut. Once the nut is removed, you can tap the bolt out with a hammer.

If the bolt hasn't embedded itself properly, you can use a flat tool such as a chisel to apply lifting force to the bolt while rotating the nut. Once the nut has rotated enough that you can grab the head, the bolt head can be held with some Multigrip Pliers or even your hand if you've got a good grip.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[markwatts]

Thanks Jacob - will give this a go

appreciate your help

[markwatts]

 

 

[markwatts]

Great advice Jacob - all done