How to fix partly rotten fascia? Best options to lengthen life ?

[PhoenixClose1]

Hi, 

I just had my garage roof and gutter replaced. Unfortunately, the roofer did not tell me that the fascia was in poor state. Only after inspecting his work a few days later did I notice that parts of the fascia, especially at the bottom are rotten.  Ideally, the roofer could have quoted to replace the fascia before installing the new gutter. 

For some reason, the previous owner had wrapped the fascia in metal, including the bottom (see Picture 1), but not the top. The wood fascia basically sits in a L-shaped metal sheet. The top part of the fascia is exposed, and so moisture can seep between the metal and the wood part of the fascia. Picture 3. The back of the fascia is not covered by metal and accessible from inside the garage. (Part of it is rotten at the back. I am scraping out the rotted parts and will use wood hardener, but that is a separate post for later). 

I think the fascia is still sound in those parts where the gutter was attached to it, so I'm wondering what I can do to prolong its life until I have money to get it fully replaced.

1) I'd like to paint / waterproof the wooden top part of the fascia -- what paint / waterproofing is best to use?

2) I'd like to seal the gap between the metal sheet and the wood part of the fascia -- what sealant is best?

3) I was wondering if I could drill some holes underneath the fascia's metal sheet, to expose to air and let moisture evaporate more easily. Is that advisable?  I'm not confident I have the ability to cut this metal.

The 4th photo just shows that about 3/4th cm of water sits in the gutter and does not flow into the drainpipe -- the roofer did not angle the gutter enough it seems. 

Picture 3Pitcure 1Picture 2Picture 4

[EricL]

Hello @PhoenixClose1 

Thank you for sharing your question about your damaged fascia. I suggest using Selleys 290ml Grey Storm Waterproof Gutter And Roof Sealant to cover the gap between the wood and metal. I suggest doing this first as the silicone sealer is paintable. I recommend using Dulux Weathersheild to repaint the surface of the fascia. 

In regards to drilling the bottom of the fascia cover this is a good idea as it will allow the water to exit the bottom of the steel cap, but it will accelerate its deterioration as it will begin to rust. If you are not yet ready for extensive repairs this should extend the life of the fascia.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know. 

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @PhoenixClose1 

Feel your frustration with the roofer 😕 My first step would be to get them back to fix that facia behind the gutter. It may be an uncomfortable discussion but def worth having a go. (The gutter is new, you need a solid surface to attach the gutter to so they should ahve let you know it was rotten)

The facia could be wrapped in metal for asthetic reasons? Protect from birds/bugs? or moisture/moss growing on the timber. (just had a look and wonder if the meatl was wrapped around the timber because the timber had perished before? So this time they wrapped it?

Painting the underside next to the gutter would help the timber last a little longer tho it does look like it needs to be replaced 😕

I know with the fall of my gutter I had a choice to make it look right from the ground or make it fall slightly and look a little odd (my rear roof has a little sag) That could eb a reason why the gutter is holding water? Id hit up the people who did the job and ask. There may be a logical reason.

I dont know if I would drill holes in the metal. Id be tempted to spend as  little as I can and save to replace that facia board. Even the gap behind the gutter to the board id be tempted to leave as the new roof should carry the water to the new gutter. I would suggest tho to clean the gutter regulary (every 3 months) I have several trees in my back yard and my gutters fill up with leavs surprisingly fast. I have noted how different the gutter works even with a few leaves in it. (The main reason I say this is my mums facia board looked the same and was rotted as well, Itw as overall easier to replace that board then fix it.)

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @PhoenixClose1 it was common back in the 70's to 90's for facia boards to be made of Oregon, which is a relatively light soft hardwood. The same goes for front facias of decks that were load bearing to the joists and pergola's. Check out a few phots below from a deck I was rebuilding. Once I got started I opened up a can of worms of rotted Oregon.

Unfortunately what's also common is for people selling homes with this issue to cover them up with colourbond flashing, which is only a cosmetic fix not a structural one, fill the rot with bog and lesser quality fillers.

Rotting timber is a bit like cancer, if left it will spread. Your facia boards are all that are supporting your guttering, but also support your eve's. The reason why the roof plumber didn't replace the facia, is because they don't do that type of work. A carpenter/builder would.

Here are my suggested options:

Don' do a patch job, as it will be forgotten about and will inevitably result in higher costs to repair. I am a firm believer to get a homes building, plumbing and electrical right before spending money on cosmetics that may need to be redone.

Get a quote from a builder to replace the facia board. He or with a plumber mate will be able to salvage the new guttering and downpipes and adjust the fall correctly. Obviously its not possible to know how much rot is hidden behind the metal face plate, but I would be confident in thinking you would have time to save for the work.

A cheaper short term solution you could do yourself depending on skillset. You will need a couple of friends to help on ladders and adjust the guttering fall yourself. It would need to be removed and refitted.

I wouldn't paint or gap fill the old exposed facia. Instead get a right angled colourbond flashing made up and ordered via the Bunnings trade desk. Then remove the last two rows of roofing screws to allow you to prop them up and fit the flashing as per my drawing below. When replacing the roof screws apply roofing silicone to any rubbers that break when removed.

Nailbag

 

[PhoenixClose1]

Thanks for these info @Nailbag.  Really appreciate the photos and all the tips.

I inspected the back of the fascia (from inside the garage). The whole length is 10m but made up of two pieces of timber about 4m and 6m. The 6m one seems structurally sound. Along its length I tapped with a screwdriver, pressed firmly with my fingers and nails. Solid. At least the parts I could see/access.   The 4m one has large rots. Will definitely need replacing. The sad part is I may need to have someone remove the metal sheet so we can see how much of the 6m is rotten or can be reused. The battens(?) are more worn out, older, paint has peeled, but still feels solid, like old fence paling that's seen better days.

I think the flashing looks like a good idea. But will it make removing the gutter next time more difficult? Does Bunnings have something similar that's flexible?

[PhoenixClose1]

Thanks for all the tips @Dave-1 and @EricL I learned a lot from reading your messages.

[EricL]

Hello @PhoenixClose1 

If you are after flexible flashing, I suggest having a look at the CAgroup 100mm x 10m Weatherproof Byute Flash Flashing Tape. Its aluminium foil coated with thick rubber/butyl adhesive used for weather sealing joints and seams. It is soft enough to be bent into different shapes.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @PhoenixClose1 the flashing tape that @EricL has suggested is a great alternative solution. You will still need to at least remove the bottom row of screws in order to lift the end of the sheets to get the flashing sitting on top of the facia board as per my original graphic in red.

Nailbag.