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Recently moved to this property and the metal panels are coming away from the wood on the fence. The metal posts all seem to be solid and in the right positions and I believe we have all the panels, so just need to figure out how to actually remove the screws which look like they are badly corroded so can't be unscrewed, and then what's the best way to go about reassembling the fence.
Also any tips on getting the bent panels back into shape? Just hammer or should we do something special?
Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Hi @writecrazy,
Thank you for your question on how to your old, corrugated iron fence.
It looks to have weathered quite considerably so there are quite a few things I'd look to repair or replace during the process.
The corrugated iron sheets look to be attached with roofing nails similar to these Paslode Galvanised Plain Roofing Nail, this and the fact the timber fence rails look quite weathered makes me think they should be very easy to pull off either by hand or by using a crowbar to lever them off. Just be careful if you are going to attempt this by hand as the edges can be very sharp, so please wear gloves. If you are struggling to remove the corroded bolts that attach the timber to the post brackets, soaking the nut in WD-40 will help to get them moving. If this fails, you will have to cut them off with a grinder.
Once everything is disassembled, I would advise cleaning the corroded fence posts and their brackets with a Trojan 4x15 Row Brass Wire Brush alongside some WD-40 to remove as much of the loose corroded material as possible. Then allow it to dry and coat with Dy-Mark 400g MetalPro Zinc Gal to protect the posts and brackets from further corrosion.
Looking at the state of the existing rails, I'd advise that they need to be replaced. I suggest using H3 pine fence rails attached to the existing post brackets with galvanized cup head bolts of a suitable diameter and length.
Once the rails are on, you can reattach the corrugated iron sheets using Zenith 10G x 25mm Galvanised Hex Head Timber Screws driven through the existing holes in the sheets. I believe the bent panels are just flexing as they are no longer attached to the fence rail and they are not actually deforming in a way that would require a repair, you should be able to just screw them back into place and they will be pulled back into shape.
Please make sure you wear all relevant personal protective equipment throughout all stages of the job. This includes gloves, eye protection, long sleeved work shirt, long pants and sturdy enclosed shoes.
I hope this covers all aspects of the repair in a way you can understand, but if not please don't hesitate to ask for clarification. I am more than happy to help.
Jacob
Hi Jacob,
Thanks for your detailed description.
For the removal step, would you recommend trying to remove all the sheets, then removing the rails?
For the cup head bolts, how do you attach them?
For the Hex Head screws, I can just use a hex attachment on a drill? No need to pre drill holes do you think?
Jennie
Afternoon @writecrazy
I pretty much had the same steps in my head as @JacobZ
So in answer to the last lot of questions.
Id remove all the sheets in the section you would do in a day. Then remove the rails. Just in case you need the fence to be doing its fence job.
For the cup head bolt, the round head will be on the otherside from the bracket, when you tighten the bolt up it draws the square base of the cup into the hole and stops it spinning.
Just had a look at the specs for the screws @JacobZ mentions and they are self drilling, so all you need is the attachment. Id suggest to back off the torque setting at first until you find the sweet spot on your tourque driver for the corrorgated sheet.
Dave
It looks like @Dave-1 has helpfully answered your questions, Jennie (@writecrazy). Let us know if you have any more.
Mitchell
Just another late afternoon thought Jennie @writecrazy But not as good or as easy as the suggestions above.
If a lot of those sheets are in alignment - but just separated, you could try new brackets on the poles (welded) and run lengths of paling above the decayed timber. I used 70 X 35 mm treated structural pine - then screw the sheets back to this.
So then, at your leisure - remove the old nails and railing if you wish to do so. I'm not.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers.
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