How to enclose an alfresco by adding a sliding door?

[ScottR]

Hi team

I am trying to attempt if I could DIY install an aluminum sliding door to my alfresco to enclose it.

Details:

-> house is on bricks for the pillar and sides

-> foundation/ground is a composite decking

-> Size of 1: 2540mm width | 2465mm height

-> Size of 2: 3130mm width | 2450-2470mm height

-> I can get help with carrying this/manoeuvring around

-> Unsure if I want 2 sliding doors but at least I want it on #1 for sure.

Questions:

1.) Common sizes of aluminium sliding doors are 2.1m height x 2.4m width. How can I fill the gaps of those?

For example, I have a 140mm width gap (70mm each side). Do I just get a 70mm width h3 treated pine and bolt it to the brick so the sliding door can be fixed there?

What about its height? I have around 365mm that I need to fill out. Do I just create a small frame for it like this photo?

2.) If I were to create that frame, what sort of items would I need to cover it? Do I have to plaster it or can a flashing just do?

3.) Is this the best way to install this? Any other tips?

First time hands-on DIYer, long time lurker. Is it worth DIY-ing? Thanks! 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @ScottR,

It would be best to start with the sliding door manufacturer and find out what type of frame the door requires. It sounds like you'll be able to use 70mm H3-treated pine to fill the gap on each side. Secure the treated pine to the brick using masonry anchors or screws suitable for brick, ensuring you pre-drill holes to prevent splitting the wood. For the 365mm height gap, create a small frame using treated pine or other suitable materials, securing it to the top of the opening and sides and ensuring it is level.

To cover the frame, you can use cement cladding on the outside, which provides durability and weather resistance. On the inside, you can use Gyprock Aquacheck, which is moisture-resistant and ideal for areas exposed to potential moisture. When creating the frame, ensure it is sturdy and level, as this will impact the overall installation and functionality of the sliding door.

It may be worth consulting a professional if you are unsure about any part of the process or if the installation seems too challenging. 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[ScottR]

Thanks @MitchellMc ! This is helpful. The vendor offers a primed timber reveal as a frame for the sliding door but I am choosing not to have it since we can directly just drill into it and bolt to the timber frame

The thickness of a 70mm H3 treated pine is 35mm, so I'll be buying two of these stacked together on either sides to form a 70mm thickness then. 

Is it enough to drill the sliding door to the timber that is attached to the brickwork? that'll be 140mm thick so I'll get a 100mm screw to do that.

[EricL]

Hello @ScottR 

Would that be a 70x70 post that you'll be putting on either side of the aluminium frame? If it is, just make sure that the timber pieces are anchored very well together, and that they are screwed in very well to the brick wall.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[ScottR]

Hey @EricL @

Thanks for chiming in. I don't think bunnings sell 70x70 posts? I was thinking of just buying 2pcs of 90x35mm and put them together vertically to form a thick 90x70mm on each side --if that makes sense? 

[EricL]

Hi @ScottR 

My apologies, I should have been more specific. That is when you join two 70x35 pieces to form a 70x70. But if you are using a 90x35 and joining two together, that will work as well. My best advice is to put some liquid nails between the two pieces aside from just screwing them together. 

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

[ScottR]

Thanks @EricL ! Yeah, that's the same idea! Awesome.

Do you have any other tips on building the frame and covering it nicely? Would z flashing help or be useful to cover the frame or just plaster it? I think the missing piece for me is figuring out the best way to cover the frame. 

[JacobZ]

Hi @ScottR,

Is it possible to get some photos of the area? The roof structure and overhang will give some indication of the best way to finish the area.

A z flashing would certainly be useful to create a drip edge above the door. This will help direct water away from potential entry points, but you would still need to use an exterior cladding material such as the cement cladding @MitchellMc mentioned earlier in conjunction with this flashing.

You should also consider adding a layer of Ametalin SilverWrap LD Reflective Wall Insulation to the framed header to help with sealing out the weather.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[ScottR]

Hey @JacobZ ! 

Thanks for the response. Here is a photo of the area. It's a bit outdated but the only changes there was that there was a composite decking covering the alfresco area now. Structure is still bricks. There seems to be a small timber attached to the top of the bricks there-- it did say "T-lintel with brickover" on my plans. Would your suggestion still be the same? 

[JacobZ]

Hi @ScottR,

Yes, my suggestion would remain the same.

The "T lintel" is a steel structural member designed to support the load from the structure above and transfer it sideways into the brick column and wall. 

Flashing styles vary from state to state, but you should have a look at Lysaght for options for Z-flashings, which are also referred to as drip edges, window flashings and door head flashings in their Architectural Detailing Manual. These flashings can be ordered through your local stores Special Orders desk.

The other piece of advice I can give is to build your frames with a few millimetres for play. It is much easier to pack out the frame a few millimetres using window packers than it is to remove some when you discover the door doesn't fit. 

Let me know if you have any further questions, I'm happy to help.

Jacob