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Hi all,
I have two questions regarding the sleeper and the cover/deck.
1. I am using the pavers as sleepers/formwork. (pointed with red arrows). Do you think it's strong enough or should I use the concreate sleeper?
2. I want to have a small deck that covers this area. It needs to be removable if we need to access the door. I think I can't use the modular decking or composite decking since the size is different. Can I use the wood sleep as a frame instead of putting the base frame flat?
Thank you.
Hi @michaelsync
Can I propose a slight change to your construction so far? I hope I can, be so a you want a tempory moveable deck.
Take the metal end caps out/off and join the timbers together with 150mm galvanised nails. Forming a box shape with 4 sides. Now add two sleeper cross members at 1/3 and at 2/3 s of the way along your frame work (to support decking timbers)
Yes those pavers are strong as concrete so you can use them under your new frame to support in the same position as you have there in photo. Use the pavers to raise or lower your planned deck height front and back adjust with extra dirt or less dirt.
Then just screw or nail treated pine or a more fancy timber decking on the top long ways to form you deck. The whole thing is pretty easy to move and relocate might be a little heavy for one person to lift so take care there.
See what you think and we can expand from there.
I/N: 2360340
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Hi @michaelsync
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's wonderful to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about building a small deck.
It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. Just to add to the suggestions made, I propose thinking about building a solid deck and creating a small access panel on the deck that will allow you to open the little side door. Can you please tell us what is inside the little side door?
In this manner it won't be necessary to lift the entire deck but just a panel door on top of the deck. I'm sorry but I'm just a little confused with your measurements. Would it be possible for you to double check how long and how deep the deck will be? Are you planning to lay pavers on the sand or something else?
It looks like an interesting project. If you are laying pavers, please don't forget to post an update. I'm sure our members are keen to see what it will look like.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Thank you, JewelleryRescue and Eric.
183 cm is the distance between the wood sleeper and the concrete step. 307cm is the distance between the wall and the wood sleep. I am okay with covering the timer deck either from wall to wood sleeper or from concrete step to wood sleeper.
Not sure what it's inside the door. but our electrician went there when we changed the main switch so I assume that this is an access door for electricity or internet.
The height of the wood sleeper and the concrete step has a bit different height. The right side has the wood sleeper as a support and the left side won't have the support.
I tried to draw what JewelleryRescue suggested it. Another issue is that Bunnings can do simple woodcuts only (e.g. shorten the length). So it's hard to find the wood that fits the height.
Thanks guys!
@michaelsync and @EricL
Good spotting that door @EricL I sure am glad I dont have to crawl through it.
@michaelsync I still recommend putting in a simple box frame with extra cross supports. You have an awkward space there complicated by crawl way.
but not in the way of that under house door. I would build a top cover in sections that sits on top of the box frame one part can be be lifted to access crawl space.
So @michaelsync Think of a wooden box (Your sleepers) with 4 sides but with a gap for the crawl space door way to open fully.
Now think about building two lids that sit on your sleepers and only the lid needs lifting not the whole deck. Each deck lid covers half the box you made.
On the cement glue decking on to look like the timber part.
Blue is sleepers
Red timber on top of sleepers
Green decking lids.
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