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Planning to build a timber picket fence and gate to enclose our front garden. We will have a section that runs part of the dividing boundary with our neighbour, then a right angle, two sections that will run the front boundary which is on a slope so I'll have to step it down, then a final section that will truncate at a 45 degree angle at the opening of our driveway. The last section is also on a slope so I'm going to have to slope this section of the fence.
I've watched this video
which helps me understand how to do the posts and railings on flat and straight sections.
However, I have a few questions about how to do the stepped, angled and sloped sections.
1) What's the best way to do the cuts for the railings in the corner post where I have the right angle? Do I just have the railings set slightly higher/lower on one side than the other?
2) On the truncated section, I'm going to have to join the railings to the post at 45 degrees to the right angle of the post, and also on a slight slope. Any tips on how best to measure and cut these? Also mindful that however I set the railings on this section need to avoid getting in the way of the railings and pickets on the other side of the post.
Any advice appreciated.
Sketches may help explain all this.
Thanks.
Hi @joe_edgell
Thanks for sharing your question about building a picket fence. I like to do my cuts with the rail strapped to the post itself. In this manner, you get a real-time look at how long the rail needs to be and where to cut it. This method also answers your other question on how to attach the rail on an angled slope.
Measurement and position are the keys to getting your rails correctly installed. The distance between the rails must stay the same including the ends. This will provide you with a uniform mounting point for your fence pickets. I recommend cutting a notch into your posts so that the rail will have a solid connection to the post when you either screw or nail it into place.
I've placed a few sketches below to give you an idea of how the rails can be attached. It's important to take into consideration how far the rails will extend past the posts, The deeper you make the notch in the post, the less of the rail you have to cut off and the more secure it will be. Test fitting a few of the fence pickets will help you decide on their distance from the post and ground.
Let me call on our experienced members @diy_hausdesigns, @Adam_W and @ProjectPete for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @joe_edgell
If you have some rachet tie-down straps those would be useful. However, if you don't have those, you can use whatever you have at hand rope, bungee cords or straps. What's important is that they stay steady long enough for you to mark the timber railing and post for cutting.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thank you also EricL
You answered one of my questions by chance 
Have been trying to figure out how to change the angle of a fenceline and just saw your sketches..
They made sense to me, will keep them in mind.
Dave
Hello @Dave-1
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. Thank you for joining the discussion.
Please just keep in mind that when you cut the notch in the post, 3/4 of the rail has to sit inside the post so that you get a good solid connection. This will allow the rail to carry the weight of the pailings that you'll be putting on even if it's on a slope and angle.
If you run into any other issues with your future fence assembly, please don't hesitate to post a question. Our members will be more than happy to provide advice and information.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Eric
Yeah, I have seen some shockers over the years. When I built my deck I did exactly that. Would keep to the same ratio - ish (Yeah I know we all fudge things sometimes) but want the fence to do a fences job....
Thank you
Dave
