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Afternoon @ricm
Nah to the competition lol Im just a fan of the equipment.
When I predrill the holes for the larger screws I drill through both (Usually I adjust the drill bit length to the depth I want and just drill down to the chuck). I I never had an issue when I was framing up my garage doing it this way.
I agree with @MitchellMc.
Dave
Hi Dave & team!
Just an update and a question...
So if you look at the pic you'll see I've almost finished the major section of frames. My question is, you see the areas Ive outlined, is there a solution for some kind of more sturdy stand other than the broken up pavers I am using? I'd be worries about these falling apart under feet when the deck boards are down.
I release I can't use the usual galvanised feet I usually do because these are made to fit specific holes in the framing kits. Is there something else at Bunnings I can pick up?
Thanks in advance.
PS: my back and my arms hurt now! lol
Ric
Hi @ricm,
I recommend you use pedestal feet for those locations. They're adjustable and should work quite well.
Mitchell
Thanks guys! @MitchellMc already bought and possibly the easiest thing to fit in this whole decking saga!
Hi guys,
'm almost ready to start work on the decking installation, but Im troubled by a few stages to come. Just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on how I might tackle the below stages?
1. See pic - how do I find a fascia board or similar to cover up underneath the deck from the point of view of the pool? I believe Eko have some kind of solution but how would I measure up for it? String? Although are them made to measure and can you fix them to concrete (the pool side)?
2. How do you cut perfectly using a circular saw (Im borrowing one from my kind neighbour's) this type of direction for the eko decking?
3. Can you suggest some options for this area? The wife wants paving (new) but I think decking might still work. What do you guys think?
It's getting exciting now but also I can't help but feel a bit like Im in over my head now! lol
On a personal note, I want to thank you for all your comments and previous support. This Bunnings service is a credit to you and your CEO. For someone like me it's really important to get proper advice and trusted recommendations (as well as inspiration from others' work).
Ric
You're making great progress @ricm, and I can understand why you're feeling both excited and a bit overwhelmed at this stage.
For the fascia board under the deck, EkoDeck does offer a solution. You’ll want to measure up the area using either a string line or tape measure to get the right dimensions. The fascia boards aren't made to measure, but you can cut them to fit. Apart from the accurate measurements, cutting the ends of the boards to the correct angle to match the next will be the most difficult task. You might like to pick up a protractor to help you find the correct angles. As for attaching them to the concrete near the pool, you’d typically fix them to the deck frame and not the concrete.
When it comes to cutting with the circular saw, the key is accuracy. Make sure to mark your cut lines clearly with a straight edge and secure the boards properly before cutting. A fine-tooth blade will give you a cleaner cut, especially on composite materials like EkoDeck. If you need to cut at an angle, set the saw correctly and take it slow.
As for the decision between paving and decking, both could work well. If your wife prefers paving, you might want to consider mixing the two, perhaps decking for seating and paving for a walkway. That way, you get the best of both worlds. It really comes down to how you plan to use the space and how much maintenance you're comfortable with in the long run.
You're doing a great job, and it’s completely normal to feel a bit out of your depth as you get closer to the finish line. Keep at it, and don't hesitate to reach out for more help if needed. Thanks for your kind words—we're glad to be part of your project!
Mitchell
Afternoon @ricm
Its coming along nicely!
Have been thinking about your questions tho @MitchellMc has answered them pretty nicely.
With the curved facia board being eco decking I am not 100% sure on how to give it a nice curve. If it was timber and I wanted a curve I would actually consider multiple vertical cuts in the back of the board for the curves that dip away from the pool. For the curve that is closer to the pool I would do the same vertical cuts but make them twice as wide.
This is to give the board some flexibility, think of an orange and the curved shape as you peel it. Or a watermellon skin may be better to imagine. if you want to bend it more then you would do a bunch of vertical cuts half way through the white rind. If you want a tighter bend then you would need more cuts or twice as thick cuts type deal.
Please note this is for timber and not eco decking. It will weaken the strength of the board and as always too much and "kapow" it will snap easily. I wouldnt be going through the board more then 2/3 or maybe 3/5ths.
On the pavers question, Happy wife, happy life I have spent to many hrs "discussing" projects when we were both arduing over the same thing. I would head towards he suggestions as it will be easier but also it will break up the are from being too much timber, you know when you walk into a yard and eveything has the sameness feel to it? New pavers could be the solution.
Dave
Hi guys,
Just a brief update and question...
Here's where Im at now with the decking. Still going with it!
Im concerned I might have/be on the verge of stuffing it up... THE EDGES OF THE POOL!...
You'll see what I mean when you look at the pics below.
I'm stuck on few things, from easy stuff I should know, to complex stuff.
1. How do I measure a freeform pool like this so I can cut both an accurate line rounded but also one that leaves enough room for the fascia board. It's very hard to even measure because as you will see from the pics, there is a big distance between the deck board and the current stone edge of the pool I need to measure to.
2. I know Bunnings don't really do fascia boards for curved/rounded surfaces, only ones for straight usual deck dimensions. I found this product. Do you think it would work? Also, how on earth would I attach it? The frame work was build using the prefab kits as you know so it's a pretty small area underneath.
https://auswideframeless.com.au/product/trex-fascia-board-3660mm-rope-swing/
3. What saw should be using for the edges over the pool? I have a jigsaw, reciprocating saw and can maybe borrow my neighbour's portable circular saw. I liked the smoothness of the cut but I managed to break 2 of the pieces, perhaps they are not suitable for Ekodeck composite.
Really grateful for your time and thoughts on this on-going saga!
Ric
Evening @ricm
Breaking down the issue.
The Facia is screwed to the joists under the deck, If you paused on doing any more edging and sorted the curve of the facia then you would have something to line up the deck boards against.
To get an nice curve I would screw lengths of timber to your joists to either "pack out" or extend out to the edge you want. (minus the width of the facia)
A flexible piece of facia may be hard to make, have you tried the suggestion I made? Whether you go with a made one of the one you mentioned in the above post, you can test how sharp a bend you are comfortable with by making the timber into an long S shape(without installing it, bend it around a solid post or edge of something), Then you know how far and how much pressure is needed to do the curves you want.
When I did my deck my facia sat at the same level as the decking boards. So if you do the same and install you Facia first then you have an line to mark and then cut the deck boards against.
Last part, Sacrifice an offcut or two and mark out a long curve and back (yeah kinda like an S again) using a jigsaw follow it exactly, it may take some time to get use to it and there are differant types of blades for materials. Ive snapped a few and snapped a few more when I first used a jigsaw (was just a cheapie but it did the job) I was cutting timber circles around 19mm thick and the circumferance of a paint tin. The first few cuts into the circular mark where stressy but then I got into it and they came out decent.
Dave
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