How to build a new deck where current pavers are?

[ricm]

Hi there,

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated... We are building a new deck in an area with pavers in the back. We have an uneven area of pavers up against timber sleepers in the garden corner, my question is - what would you advise that we use to put under the decking to make the area level? If we put 'build tuff' as bases and attached the whole frame base to the side sleepers, would this work?  . 

[ricm]

Just to be sure, this product is best? https://www.bunnings.com.au/90-x-45mm-outdoor-framing-h3-treated-pine-2-4m_p8032172

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @ricm 

Yeah definently exchange if you can There is NO way any of us in here would laugh We all make mistakes, and really even if we have been doing something for years we still make them Take a look atthis thread, it just shows what we all do at times. Mistakes with tools that we have done? 

I post things that I have done, mostly because I have figured its the right way until I know more If someone has done it a different way and they are happy with it then its right for them. 

It looks like you will have support for the frame you are going to make up Thats the main thing I was concerned about. 

Id be happy with what you have done

Dave

[Dave-1]

@ricm 

Yep, if you look at the page your link shows head on down to "Features" and it explains where and how the item should be used. Ive often considered a product only to read up and go whoops, thats a no! I find it a handy thing to look at.

Dave

[ricm]

Awww thanks Dave! Working on this solo, it's nice to hear that from someone like you who does know what they are doing! 

Sometimes you just need a bit of encouragement. This is the biggest project Ive undertaken. 

I will exchange (I still have the receipt), and get on with it. 

Thanks again Dave  

[EricL]

Hi @ricm 

Thank you so much for the update, your frame building looks excellent! Trust me, it looks great and it's good to see that you've put extra protection on your decking frame and stumps. @Dave-1's recommendations are spot on, please use H3 treated timber for your framing. 

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your decking frame assembled.    

Eric

[ricm]

Thank you so much for your kind words Eric. I shall keep you posted for sure

[ricm]

Hi guys, 

Ive laid almost all the frames now but I will need to get creative next as I need to build custom frames/shapes to complete the foundations. 

My last Ryobi finally packed up after over 12 years constant use - smoke was coming from the sides (!) when I was trying hard to screw the batten screws into the timber frames. I picked up what I thought would be a good solution for me on the move to screw together the frames and do more screwing on the move with other parts. I got this one; https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-18v-one-hp-compact-brushless-impact-driver-tool-only_p0295346

I'm sad to say it really struggled to get through the pre-drilled holes in the low frames I have (https://www.bunnings.com.au/1116-x-1116mm-modular-decking-70-x-45mm-base-frame-flat-packed_p8451223)

I saw similar reviews on it after I bought it, Im starting to think I should return and just get a more powerful cordless drill. 

Can you anyone recommend one that COULD get through this type of H3 timber quickly without struggling and making really loud noises?

Ric

[Dave-1]

Morning @ricm 

How big a diameter of a hole were the piliot holes and also how big are the screw you are uisng comes to mind?

I have had this discussion with a mate over "power" verse smoothness/control.

I have a Ozito Impact driver and an Ozito Torque drill (both battery), he had a Milwalkie impact driver (battery)

My Impact Ozito definently has the power to go through anything lol It beat his milwalkie somehow, the difference is the ozito has no control of that force on the impact, his milwalkie had a smoother operation. 

For your answer I would say Ozito and check the pilot hole over the size of the screw (note the angle you are drilling in, is it perpendicular, I know when Ive done a bunch and its near the end of the day my strength and attention is lacking)

Also as a side note, Bunnings sometimes have showcases of tool manufacturers. hot up teh tool team and tehy may be able to tell you when next. Then you get to try the tool out.

Dave

[ricm]

Hey Dave,

Great idea of you doing a competition to see which one worked best. I do have some Ozito products and they are good. 

I'm drilling into into a 70x45mm piece of timber going into the same. The nails I am using are these: https://www.bunnings.com.au/bremick-xtp-14g-x-100mm-t40-b8-bugle-batten-500-pack_p0575882

It does seem to go through the holes in the first piece easily, it's when it hits the other (non-hole) piece of timber when the struggle starts.

I put 9 frames together yesterday but had to revert to the powered impact drill I use but because of the location it would be so much easier to go cordless so Id like whatever solution I use to work ok for this as I still have a lot of drilling to do.

Is it the screws do you think?

Ric 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @ricm,

Impact drivers will always make a considerable amount of noise due to their function. I suggest the issue is that the second timber is not pre-drilled, which causes the drills to exert much effort. Personally, I'd either go with a corded drill or clamp the joint and use a Sutton Tools 5.0mm Long Series Jobber Drill Bit to drill through the pre-drilled hole and then into the end of the non-predrilled timber. By pre-drilling both pieces of timber, your impact driver will have a much easier time screwing into it.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell