How to build a new deck where current pavers are?

[ricm]

Hi there,

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated... We are building a new deck in an area with pavers in the back. We have an uneven area of pavers up against timber sleepers in the garden corner, my question is - what would you advise that we use to put under the decking to make the area level? If we put 'build tuff' as bases and attached the whole frame base to the side sleepers, would this work?  . 

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @ricm 

Yeah something like that (havnt used that product but really just needs to protect the ground from moisture). It will be hidden under the deck so you wont see it. The edge that you can se eI would use some other product that can be painted.

Dave

[EricL]

Hello @ricm 

I also suggest having a look at Gripset Betta 1L Waterproofing Membrane Bitumen Rubber. To protect the top of your decking frame I suggest using CAgroup 50mm x 20m Bearer Protector G-Tape. This tape is placed over the top of the decking frame preventing water from standing on the timber frame surface. 

In regards to the laser level, I believe it will save you time as you'll be able to quickly see which parts of your deck are out of alignment. Whereas if you were to manually check each one with a spirit level it would take you some time to get through your entire decking frame. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[ricm]

Yeah I am starting to realise the levelling manually is going to take ages and is quite stressful. I will use the laser level I bought ! 

Thanks for the recommendations on protective paints for the frame - will use them. 

[ricm]

Actually @EricL, how do I make a perfect cut once I have established the line with the laser level? I have this saw - Im just worried it may not be exactly straight enough... 

[Dave-1]

Evening @ricm 

Id forgo that saw and go for a circular saw. (mainly because Id make a mess I am sure lol I havnt used one of thhose before so practice makes perfect) Mark the lines you want in pencil then cut with the saw, (blade depth may not do it in one cut) then cut from the other side. You may have an issue with the posts being short but you can work around that I am sure.

Dave

[EricL]

Hi @ricm 

I suggest using a Craftright 300mm Combination Square to draw a line on your post. However, if your post is not level, it would be better to use a spirit level so that you'll know that the cut is relatively level. Always double check your measurements and attachments before you attempt any cut. The last thing you want to be doing is replanting a post as you've cut it too short. 

However, if you are talking about the top of the deck frame, I suggest using a Planer or a belt sander to trim the surface of the decking frame. Please take all proper precaution when using power tools.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @ricm 

Since you have already created a cut line with your laser level, the next thing is to carry that line with a pencil around the all 4 sides with a square on each post.

I would definitely not use a reciprocating saw to cut the top of the posts as you will not get a clean straight cut. This needs to be done with a circular saw.

Measure the distance from the inside edge of the blade to the furthest edge of the base plate. Lets say its 110mm. Then measure down from your cut line 110mm and draw that all the way around.

Use DAR Pine to make yourself a cutting guide thats has an opening slightly larger than the post diameter. Screw that to the posts with the top edge on your 110mm line.  Depending on the depth of cut of your saw, you will need to cut on multiple sides to get all the way through the post. 

Cutting the top of the posts is relatively dangerous as there is a high chance the saw will kick back. A sharp blade is important and go slow.. Carry each cut so the blade has passed all the way through each side. You need to position your body height safely and securely so you're not cutting any higher than chest height. You will need eyelet and hearing protection.

Regards, Nailbag

 

[ricm]

@EricL 

Hi there,

Just an update and a question. 

The project is going well. I have now finished levelling 6 frame base kits but now have a corner that is too small for the prefab kit so I have purchased some same size timber (H2) but I am concerned as it doesn't smell like it's treated for structure, I may need H3. Can someone help me with this one? I am also adding the Bitumen paint to the bottom of the frame so will it be enough to protect against termites, weather and also be strong enough to support the decking?

Thanks so much,

Ric

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @ricm 

I wouldnt be using H2 timber as it will rot a lot easier. H3 at a mininum. 

Just did a quick search for different types of outside timber 

"Treated pine is classified according to durability, with H3 and H4 being the more durable classifications for external use. H3 is the best option for all your subframe work above-ground, while H4 can be used for posts and other things that are close to/touch the ground or need to be dug into the ground"

Do you have a photo of the corner you are doing as I am thinking support siws you dont want it cantilevered too far from a support to the ground?

If you think it will flex with a body weight then I woulkd suggest to install another footing. There is nothing worse then a deck moving undre your feet

Dave

[ricm]

Hi @Dave-1  thanks for answering! (again!!)

Thats a pic of the corner. 

(Don't laugh at the post stumps/footings - I know they aren't perfect lol)

I will go back and exchange for H3s I think.

What do you think?