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Hello @ricm
Thank you very much for the update. If you've decided to go with the modular decking, I suggest waiting for them to arrive so that you do an actual test fit and see how the frame will come together. This will give you a better idea of how the frame will fit around the pool. In regards to your choice of circular saw, the Bosch 18V Professional 165mm Cordless Circular Saw GKS 18V 57-2 is an excellent choice.
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the frames assembled.
Eric
Thanks Eric. Certainly will!
Evening @ricm
I would also suggest to wait for those modules you have ordered, even before compacting any soil. I have not used them before but would suggest to see how the fit together and maybe join two or three together and then attach that to a straight edge (where the edge of your existing deck is)
Looking forward to seeing how it goes One tool I didnt see mention was a longish level?
Think it would come in handy while you level the modules.
Dave
An update/question...
The foundations for my deck are going well, v slowly due to family illness but it's moving. Pavers are gone, posts in and a challenging pool leak I accidentally uncovered, but things are moving.
I just have a simple question - when I put the posts in, whilst they were all straight, the posts themselves were not cut too well plus the ground and cement have caused imbalances, how do I level these all off perfectly so they can withstand the deck frames and be level? Would this work? https://www.bunnings.com.au/dewalt-2-pack-plunge-saw-rail-guide-clamps_p0018419
(I have a reciprocating saw)
Thank you in advance!
Ric
Good Morning @ricm
First up can we have a photo tho I suspect I can picture the issue
Check out Pool deck stage 1 stage 2 and about half way down for an example.
My deck sits on bearers and joists. When I was laying it out and figurning what my start pont would be it worked this way.
The level of the deck against the pool
Minus the height of timber
Minus the height of the joist
Minus The height of the bearer
I made sure that the height of the post was shorter then those distances added up, that way the post that the joist didnt matter if it was level on top. As long as the joist rail was taller then the posts then nothing would catch on it. From memory I think my posts were 10mm bellow the rail level and I just used a circular saw to lop them off. It was scary as I hadnt done it before.
If the posts arnt in the right plane (posts are a little out of alignment with each other when you line up a rail next to them) then its shallow cuts with a circular saw and chisel Those pics are in that build as well. I love the sound of teh chisel and mallet as you work along thetimber, it has a particulat ring to it. If you need to do it, practice on a couple of offcuts first is my suggestion.
Dave
Hi @ricm,
Typically, you would use a chalk line and line level to add a consistent mark to the top of the posts. Once you have your height marked on the posts, you could clamp a horizontal piece of timber to them to guide your cut and ensure it stays straight.
Mitchell
Thank you @MitchellMc - I just wondered if there was something like this at Bunnings https://www.amazon.com.au/ReciProMate-Reciprocating-Guide-Attachment-Cutting/dp/B00KSTW0Z6
I'll keep trying!
Ric
I have attached a pic below. Thanks @Dave-1 I have the right level of where I need to be now, it's pretty low in places but ok.
I recently bought a laser level @ bunnings but havent unboxed it yet as I thought maybe it was an overspend and may not be needed. What do you think about laser levellers for stuff like this?
Afternoon @ricm
Tools are fun! Tho I dont own a laser level. (I have wanted one when I was doing the cornice of the room downstairs tho)
I am old school and used a piece of straight timber that I had verified was straight with my level. With the way you are building your deck I would say a laser line would make it a lot easier to line up the segmants.
With the timber being so close to the ground I would suggest two things.
- Try and escavate the soil so its not touch anywhere by 50mm at least
- Paint the bottom edge and sides of the timber with a waterproof/outside paint to lesson the chance of rot turning up.
Looking forward to the next steps and seeing it unfold!
Dave
Thanks man. Re; painting the bottom of the deck, you mean something like this?
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