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Hello everyone,
I'm trying to build a deck in our alfresco. At this point, it's still on the planning stage. I've seen a few posts here and there on this forum and would very much appreciate some further inputs to more experienced people than me.
My background: I work in the IT industry and "hardware" isn't really my thing lol. Anyway, I've built a few benches, and tables (nothing fancy) but not really built anything as big as an outdoor deck.
Project Alfresco: We have a small alfresco that my wife insists should have a deck. I agree, and I want to build it myself. Here's some bit of a challenge. The brick height is low, and also, "not even" from the side near the wall (corner of the doorway), it's around 130mm slopes down to 125mm the other side. Also, what would look good:(1) building the deck only on the slab of the alfresco, or (2) including the one outside as well?
Need suggestions on best way to build it, should I use this? https://www.bunnings.com.au/tuffblock-300-x-300-x-90mm-instant-foundation-system-deck-support_p24103... shour I do something else? Open to any suggestions at this point since this is my first build.
thank you.
Hello @MitchellMc ,
Some minor challenge came up when I finally moved the whole thing to near the brick(towards doorway, and wall).. Since the concrete slab isn't even, some of the timber "touches" the slab a bit. Some, timber, maybe I can still put something underneath, but some are like this:
Any suggestions on how I will handle this? What should I do on the section that touches the slab?
Thank you.
Hi @yeahboo,
The only concern I have with the timber sitting on the concrete is the possibility of water being sucked into it every time it rains and possibly creating an area where decay could develop. I recommend painting the underside of the timber where it touches the ground with at least two or three coats of bitumen rubber.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hello @MitchellMc ,
It's been a while since I provided an update. Since I only worked on weekends and work sometimes requires me to work on weekends, I haven't made much progress. However, I think I'll soon be able to board... Now, I know that Bunnings give random lengths when buying timber... if the frame is 4.7m x 4.2m... how do I go about boarding it and not make look "ugly" if for example I get a mix of 1.8m, 4.2m (ideal!), 2.4m etc.
I was thinking of using spotted gum timber (instead of merbau). But I can only order online with random lengths. Or is it possible to go in store and pick out 4.8m lengths for example? and what if there aren't enough 4.8m lengths? Can I buy and set them aside (leave at store) until I accumulate enough boards of same length?
Thanks.
Evening @yeahboo
I can answer some of those questions,
If you want full continuios lengths I would go in store and select the ones you want, It may take a few weeks to get the quantity you want or go to a few different Bunnings I have done both to get get the piece I wanted (mine were 2.4m pieces I wanted)
Bunnings cant hold them for you until you have enough I think they would end up needing a warehouse twice as big.
You can stagger the patten if you use odd lengths, I have that on my deck and it looks nice. I have seen "Break boards" used where a board is used between two sections so you wont need the full 4.7m For instance you could go 90mm edge board, 2.35m straight, 90mm break board width, then 2.35m then break board. Think Tennis court look.
Dave
Hi @yeahboo,
@Dave-1 has pretty much covered it, though I would head into the store and speak with the Special Orders team. They might be able to order you 4.2m lengths from the supplier.
A breaker board would be a good idea. If you install one at the 2400mm mark, then you'd be looking for boards between 2400mm and 2700mm. You should find a decent number of 2400mm boards in each multi-length pack. As mentioned, it could take a couple of visits to get everything you need. When I completed my deck, I was able to get 30 3000mm length from one visit.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hello Mitchell, and Dave,
Thanks for the information. I'll put these information under consideration when I purchase the boards.
Meanwhile, I'm on the last stages of putting the anchors on the frame... I have this problem:
as you can see in the photos, the gap is a bit higher than when I put the brackets on the joists that were on the concrete slab. Now, on the apron side, there's a big gap where I feel like drilling on where the holes are (in the 2nd picture) will break the timber. A friend suggested doing it with what is shown on the 1st picture. (except, flip that dynabolt orientation) What he's saying is to use the bolts to adjust for the height and sandwich the bracket between bolts. I'm sceptical on this as well as I think the brackets might bend over time? Can you provide your insights on how you would solve this?
Thanks!
Hi @yeahboo,
It looks like the deck is coming along nicely.
While your friend's suggestion of adding a sandwiching nut to the dynabolt will work for a while, your scepticism is correct as this would place a lot of pressure on the 90-degree bend in the bracket which would eventually bend over time, lowering the height of the deck.
My suggestion, as the frame will be covered up with decking boards, is to simply use window packers underneath the bracket to support it at the correct height.
This will allow the load to be transferred down through the bracket, into the packers and subsequently into the concrete.
Using packers in this fashion will mean the base of the bracket is solidly supported and will not be able to bend like it would with the sandwiched nut on the dynabolt.
Let me know what you think and if you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Jacob
Hello Jacob,
If I go with window packers, does that mean I should forego the angled brackets? only window packers will support joists where I couldn't put pedestal support, or angled brackets? How long will those window packers last over time? with rain/sun etc in melbourne?
Thanks
Morning @yeahboo
Its coming along
The window packing is a good idea of @JacobZ's or you could drill a hole in the gal bracket a little closer to the center, That way it wont be near the edge. Maybe bump up the bottom hole by 15mm?
Or depending on how many brackets are short, only use one hole into the timber and add some more brackets instead. That way you will still have the same amount of attachments.
Dave
Hi @yeahboo,
You should still use the angle brackets as they are there to attach the frame to the concrete to prevent uplift. If you were to simply sit the joists on the packers, there is no real attachment to the concrete.
The packers will not be exposed to the sun as they will be covered with decking boards, and they are made of non-perishable plastic, so water is not an issue.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Jacob
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