How to build a horizontal timber fence using Colorbond posts?

[tophnay]

Hi everyone 

I want to build a front fence like below using colourbond posts and timber panels horizontal. 

I'm curious is the posts would be able to support the timber? And what timber would be best? 

 

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @tophnay. It's great to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about building a fence.

Were there some particular Colorbond fence posts you had your eye on? If you could share the details of them, that would assist our members with providing accurate advice. Colorbond is the coating on the posts, and then you'll find different manufacturers producing their own brand of posts. The only Colorbond coated posts I'm aware of are these Australian Handyman Supplies Steel Fence Post 50 x 50mm x 2.4m Night Sky. These posts would be able to support timber, but to answer your question, I'd need to know a little more, like how high you intend on building the fence. These posts would need at least 600mm in the ground to be used for an 1800mm high fence. 

The timber choice is up to you, but treated Pine or Merbau are common choices.

Have you seen the Jack Screen Up system for creating a fence? It utilises powder-coated steel posts and allows you to slip the screening timber into grooves in them. It's really quite a versatile system.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell
 

[tophnay]

Hi and thanks for responding. 

I was thinking these posts look like the picture with timber slats 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/colorbond-steel-fencing-post-night-sky-2700mm_p0910755

The fence would be 1800 above ground, but could drop a little if needed. It's for enclosing front garden, so wanting high enough for privacy of people walking past.

Than capped with matching rail.

The post link you added I had considered as additional strength. But I like idea of the Jack Screen up system without spacers using end, corner and join posts (https://www.bunnings.com.au/jack-1970mm-screen-up-joiner-post_p1100965)

I'm keen on lighter natural looking wood. So I guess treated pine would be best. 

[Jason]

Thanks for the extra detail @tophnay.

Unfortunately @MitchellMc won't be back on the site until Friday. Thanks for your patience in the meantime. 

Let me also tag helpful members @DIY4Knuckleheds and @Dave-1 for their thoughts.

Jason

[Dave-1]

Good morning @tophnay 

Thats a sweet looking fence idea. I wouldnt mind it myslef.

I havnt installed a fence yet, but have thought about how to and issues. I do like @MitchellMc 's suggestions about the depth of the posts for sure. I think the pivet point at the top of the fence being pushed and the weight of the timber would make me even go a little deeper for a solid foundation. I presume you are intending to slot the timber slats into the channel? My only suggestion for the type of timber is one that wont warp or bow. Will you have a corner on the fence and how long a run is the straightest run? I am thinking of wind consideration is all.

Dave

[tophnay]

Thanks for replying 

The fence is L shape. 

One side fixed to post near front door with the street front going from corner to end post on right of picture. The white gate in middle of picture will move up nearer the Street, opening behind fence for side access. There will be a 3rd section in front of palms to secure front yard. Moving current gate forward connects back yard to front once fence installed.

[Dave-1]

Good morning @tophnay 

Nice way to gain back some yard usefully! Id definently be putting the posts into the yard and not having long spans between them. That way there will be more strength in the fence to resist wind/casual leans ect.

Have you decided on what type of timber you are heading towards yet? I was thinking along the lines of treated pine sleepers for protection/longativity of the timber plus the physical size.

Trated Pine sleepers just for a range of sizing. 

Dave

[tophnay]

I'm so glad you said sleepers. 

I had thought 200Hx50Wx1200L h 1500L - posts apart 1.2/1.5/1.5/1.2 = 5.4 along front & similar done size with slight span adjustments, but was worried it would be too heavy going up to 1800. This was I could bury first sleeper in ground to have a small retain at the street front side. Capped with top rail.

With the Jack Screen Up posts I'd have to use 19mm timber. 

[Dave-1]

@tophnay 

My only concen would be if the timber will fit in that slot for the posts. If you are going to use it as a retaining wall to even say a foot deep then it will change a lot of things. (retaining wall will want to roll one way or the other) My sugestion wouldbe do the reataining wall first then the fence over the top. That way movement isnt linked through to the fence itself. 

I like the short distance between the posts, I think it will add stability and look a lot nicer. 

Dave

[MitchellMc]

Typically, you'd use thinner screening material for a fence rather than very thick treated Pine sleepers @tophnay. You could use sleepers, but their weight would require everything to be beefed up, including bigger posts, and deeper and larger footings. You might like to consider treated Pine plinths instead of sleepers as they are 150 x 25mm instead of 200 x 50mm.

Mitchell