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How to attach gate frame to brickwork?

nagumuthu
Making a Splash

How to attach gate frame to brickwork?

Hello Members,

 

The Wood screws dislocated from the wall. Should the gap be filled again with cement, drilled and fixed. (or) any alternative fixtures are available to prevent this from happening again. Reckon due to the wind pressure the door is frequently getting pushed for above event to happen. Could you please list the materials for resolving this.

 

WhatsApp Image 2022-06-18 at 11.33.34 AM.jpeg

 

Intent to replace below lock mechanism with door lock that can be accessed from both sides of the gate.  Can you please propose any suitable two way door lock and ways to close the holes in the gate (if that is exposed) after fixing the two way lock.

 

By the way, please propose suitable paint and tools (I'm paining for the first time) to touch up the scratches that were left over due to be movement of the dislocated gate.

 

Door LockDoor Lock

 

Thank you.

MM

 

Noyade
Kind of a Big Deal

Re: Side Door

Morning @nagumuthu 

 

"By the way, managed to get the post at same level"

 

Well done. Now that the posts are level - where are the pre-existing holes in the post now in relation to the brick wall? Mortar or sold brick?

This new height will now require latch position adjustments later?

How wide is this gate? Weight - you mentioned it was hard to lift?

Is the post 40mm X 40mm?

Re: Side Door

Hello @Noyade 


Thanks. Previous drilled holes are now sealed with mortar gap filler.

 

The new holes are at the centre of the brick.

 

I will fix dual side gate lock after fixing the gate to the post. Thus latch adjustment is not required.

 

I will weigh the gate and measure the post back home and post it later today.

 

Neverthess, the post carried the gate for some time of 3 years and no bend is noticed in the post. Reckon it can carry the weight of the gate.

 

Re: Side Door

Thanks @EricL.

 

Waiting for the rain to settle down to

pickup the tools.

 

Will provide an update.

 

Thanks for the confidence on Dyna.

Noyade
Kind of a Big Deal

Re: Side Door

That's OK @nagumuthu , you seem to have it under control.

Looking back at all your photos - it appears to me there was only ever one Tek screw holding the post to the wall, holding the counterweight of the gate?

They rebated the metal further down, to accommodate a concrete lip in the slab? - which again appears to have failed/bent once that Tek screw above gave way.

 

This is in miniature - but I suggest that with whatever anchorage system you go with - place another closely below the top anchor. There are plenty of tricks getting the nut onto the Dynabolt thread through the outer post hole - should you go that way. Cheers!

 

Gate.jpg

Re: Side Door

Hi @nagumuthu , my main concern regarding those dynabolts is that they may be too short at 75mm.  How thick or the posts? There needs to be an adequate length protruding through to go at least 50mm into the brick to prevent them (or any fastener) breaking the wall of the brick  by putting all the load too close to the surface. 

Noyade
Kind of a Big Deal

Re: Side Door

Hi @TedBear 

 

I believe the 'plan' (or I thought so) - is an outer hole is drilled, as is an inner hole - and the nut is attached to the dybabolt (already positioned in the brick) on the inside of the post - as per @MitchellMc 's diagrams/post on Page 1 and as per the original tradesman's attempt. No need for the anchor to accommodate the post's width.

 

20230223_111024.jpg

 

Another old example - this time a coach screw into wood via a hole in steel square tube. A few cobwebs included.  😉

 

20230223_113349.jpg

 

The only reason I asked about the post width above, was to look at the length of long sockets.

 

20230223_111113.jpg

 

 

Re: Side Door

Hello @Noyade 

 

There were 2 wooden screws ( I assume you call them as Tek Screw) holding the post to the brick wall. One on top and another on middle zone. Both of them screwed to the mortar.

 

The bent ( due to weakened rebate material) is rectified now by bending back with F clamp and a steel pipe.

 

I will place one Dynabolt on top, another in middle and possibly one close to ground (if top two does not provide enough support. To take note, bottom post is guided by concrete square hole)

 

There shouldn’t be any nut to Dynabolt, as it is hammered to the brick and tightened on its head for better gripness, if I’m right to say that.

Re: Side Door

Hello @TedBear 

 

I will measure the thickness of the post this evening. In eyesight it is within / around 2mm.

Noyade
Kind of a Big Deal

Re: Side Door

Ahhh...I see now.

 

"There shouldn’t be any nut to Dynabolt"  - @nagumuthu 

 

I see now.PNG

I was thinking off a different variety of Dynabolt that uses a nut.

Please carry on.

I shall cease and desist.  😁

Re: Side Door

@Noyade @TedBear @EricL @Neo19 @MitchellMc 

 

I had difficulty in transferring the centre of 20mm drilled hole in the post to opposite side.

 

Used tapes and trysquare for transferring the top edge of the circle and find the centre thereafter.

 

97321051-BD2E-46BB-9531-FCBB16894270.jpeg

Is there a tool to mark the centre of the hole easily to the opposite side, as I need to drill 10mm only on that side, just for dynabolt to enter from that side to hold the brick.

 

Current transfer method through pencil and trysquare takes time and not accurate.

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