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Hi all!
I have been deliberating over this area for months now... Not one to put pen to paper for planning, although I probably should for the sake of time wasting lol! I hope the pictures and my text explain what I am trying to do and the areas involved!!
I'm in the process of this mess! I'm selling soon so I'm after a quick fix that looks good but doesn't have to be perfect but doesn't leave the buyer with issues either.
1. Main merbau deck area is raised above ground on the sloping block which includes a ramp (over the old concrete stairs) and stairs down to the base level of the house before entering the main deck to th front door. You should be able to see a number of areas in the pictures where the deck is exposed underneath i.e. under pathway and ramp and where stairs are as well as concrete stairs, and where the climbing garden wall is... this is what I'd like to creatively cover to stop my dog getting under there and the creepy crawlies coming out as well! I also have massive bamboo trees and live on a main road so it constant dirt and debris going under there.
2. As you can see there's an area in front of main deck off the concrete driveway where a section of plyboard has been ripped off I have no idea how to make this look fix it without pulling the lot off.. And I don't think I would know how to properly replace it all! It was originally built as a sandpit and currently used as our fire pit area. The ply used to be a chalkboard I don't care if I use more chalkboard paint and continue that or just painted black to hide it main concern is repairing the removed section and...
2. Same area, fixing/ filling / covering the steel and timber exposed framing areas... again stop the creepy crawlies and it looks ugly!
3. Close up of where concrete meets timber retaining walls I'm guessing expanding foam but if there's any other cheaper / easier options for a DIYer like myself to fill these gaps so the leaves and debris don't get stuck in there that would be amazing!
4. You can see the monument fencing and aluminium timber style gates which is the front of the house facing east, lots of retaining walls and garden bed areas here that were yuk and mouldy/rotting sleepers etc...
I have washed, sanded, treated with hardener and painted with Bondall inground timber protector waterproofing paint ... all of the retaining wall areas you can see that are black! I'm still filling!! And obviously yet to complete painting! That'll be my last agenda!
IDEAS & MATERIALS
I'd like to use various materials I have around the house including those you probably seen in the images which include;
- random ply stuff
- stack of square and rectangular tiles leftover from bathroom and kitchen splashback
- old outdoor timber furniture that I have pulled apart
- the steel things you see in some of the pictures
- timber sleepers various lengths
- 2x decking boards same as ramp length
- and other random odds and ends I've collected over the years.
P.N. There are 2 massive umbrella trees (only one pictured, the other is in the retaining area to the other side which is a problem for another day!). As you can see the one of the umbrella trees roots is starting to lift the decking path but I don't think there's much I can do about this pre sale it's not a deal breaker !!
**I need to stress although I love DIY projects and likely have more tools than the usual single mums out there haha I'm definitely no carpenter! But willing to go r most things a go! Please bear that in mind with any advice and info you have for me!!**
I'm super appreciate any and all comments and look forward to hearing from you!
... Sorry I thought I may have got a reply from at least the Bunnings workshop people by now! Have I gone into too much detail and confused everybody lol??
Hi @cassrigbye,
Apologies for the delayed response.
You've already done some brilliant work coating the sleepers with waterproofing paint.
Unfortunately, I think you're correct that you've put so many ideas down that it is hard to tell exactly what you're trying to achieve. I see 3 separate jobs that when treated individually are relatively easy, but combined it would seem a bit overwhelming, especially when you are aiming to sell soon.
I would start with replacing the timber underneath the deck. The best way to fix this issue is to remove the broken sheet and replace it with one of the same dimensions. Can you advise how thick the plywood is and the dimensions along the dotted lines from the join to the end of the frame?
I'm happy to recommend a product once I know what the dimensions are.
The second job I can see is covering the frame on your ramps. The easiest way to do this is to attach a decking board to the frame. This will cover the space so no animals can get underneath. It will also give the deck a clean finished look. Assuming they match the dimensions of your existing decking boards, you can likely use SpecRite 90 x 19mm Merbau Pre-Oiled Decking with decking screws to attach them to your frame.
When you say you want to fill the gaps between the retaining wall and concrete, is this where you mean?
If so, then you should treat this gap like the one I've filled in How to fill a joint in a concrete slab. Start by cleaning out the gap so there are no leaves or dirt. Use Abelflex to fill the gap and then apply Black Sikaflex 11FC Purform over the Abelflex to seal the gap. This will be flexible enough to allow for movement while covering the gap to prevent leaves and debris from falling in.
Allow me to tag @Nailbag, @Jewelleryrescue and @Dave-1 to see if they have any further advice they can offer.
Please don't hesitate to reach out with any further questions.
Jacob
Hi @cassrigbye
I would use 10mm ply painted in a nice color and cover up the unsightly areas. AS well as @JacobZ more targeted solutions.
I say this given you skill set will be able to cut and screw ply I am sure.
I normally would recommend cement sheeting for a longer-term fix but cutting it is more involved.
Big job start small in one corner and work around so the job isnt over whelming.
Amazing thank you @JacobZ appreciate your very detailed reply that's awesome.
You're totally right! Let's just deals ith one at a time haha thanks!!
#1 my apologies it's not plywood I believe it is a fibro cement sheeting or similar that's painted. From join to end of vertical end of deck frame is 1170 (or 1270 to end of the horizontal frame the board is attached to) x 540mm high at join. But obviously I have the step to navigate too!
There are no other joins I can see the rest of the section until the corner is 2400 mm.
Cheers!
#2 I thought the same thing myself but the problem is on this bit it sticks out, does that matter? And I have no idea where to start with installing it haha... as you can see here it's already splitting, that's on every end!
I reckon I could get it away with it in the area that you have marked up though. I do have a piece long enough but don't have a circular saw or something to cut the angle it would need.
Would you recommend filling the big void underneath first?
Thanks again!!
Hi @cassrigbye
I see you already are well on your way with great advice from both @JacobZ and @Jewelleryrescue .
Personally, I would use marine ply to replace the old broken panels. It's more expensive but will handle the weather for a lot longer than standard even painted.
I don 't see the need to fill the void under the deck, just externally. The timber you line the end with needs to be either a painted hardwood, like any of your leftover decking boards, or ideally treated pine, if its going underground.
Nailbag
Nailbag
Good Evening @cassrigbye
As I was goingthrought your questions and the photos plus thinking of what you are after I kept coming back to some kind of lattie work screen. More so then particle or plywood. I like the opening for allowing air movement under the decking and to stop the build up of moisture.
Jack Matrix 2410 x 1205 x 5mm Charcoal Plastic Reeded Diamond Lattice is the type of latticework I am thinking of. I would actually have the attachment point just at the top and let it hang. It will stop your doggo and also other small animals from hanging out plus make it look tidier and consistant along the pathways and edges.
For the beams that have those large splits appearing with the screws, maybe back the screws out and then predrill a piloy hole and then refix the screws. The splist will hopefully look a lot less this way.
Tidy, covered and consistant will blend any other irregularites that you might have. Cutting the plastic trellis (I went for plastic for longetivity) you could purchase an ozito circular saw, or sometimes there are tool loan organisations in your local area. Local mens sheds, or Ozito 185mm 1300W Corded Circular Saw if your budget can stretch that far
Dave
Hello @cassrigbye
I totally agree with the recommendations suggested by @Nailbag and @Dave-1. My only other suggestion is to use a standard hand saw to cut the timber pieces you are trying to use.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
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