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Looking for some ideas and guidance on how to refresh the space and make it useable all year round. In summer it is too hot and in winter it's too cold. The patio roof area is approx 9m x 4.7m, and the rafters are 900mm apart. The current flooring is tile over concrete that was painted by the previous owner with cheap paint which is now lifting/wearing off. There also appears to be movement that has cracked the underlying slab in places which has caused the tiles above to also crack.
Areas I'd like to address and/or add are:
- add a ceiling and insulation to minimise the heat coming through from the tin roof
- can I just add timber sheets nailed to the rafters and then add either wool or foilboard insulation in the space between?
- replace the fluoro lights with downlights
- redo the flooring
- Sand back, prep, and repaint? Or lay pavers over the top?
- would have liked to deck it out but the floor in the patio is level with the floor in the house already so not enough height
- this area floods when we get heavy rain, going to look at adding a drain beneath the gravel to channel the water away from the area
- wall in the middle bay (pic with the chiminea) to be able to add an outdoor kitchen (bench with a bbq and pizza oven with gas bottle/timber storage underneath) and then add cafe blinds or screens that can open in the other two bays (wind comes from that direction)
Open to any and all ideas on how to go about each of the above as I'm going round and round in circles trying to work it out.
Budget is open but definitely not skies the limit! ;0)
Will likely be a 3-6 month project.
Reasonably handy and have most tools (mid-house renovations at the moment)
Cheers and thanks in advance.
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @AdrianF. It's amazing to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about your patio makeover.
For the ceiling and insulation, since the roof structure appears substantial, installing a lightweight plywood or plasterboard ceiling with insulation in the cavity would be effective. You could use foilboard insulation, which is particularly good for reflecting heat in summer and retaining warmth in winter. However, before proceeding, it’s essential to consult with a structural engineer or builder to ensure the roof can handle the additional weight.
When it comes to replacing the fluorescent lights with downlights, this upgrade will modernise the space and improve the lighting quality, making the patio more inviting. Make sure the downlights you choose are rated for outdoor use to handle exposure to moisture and temperature fluctuations.
For the flooring, since the tiles are glazed and painted, concrete or paving paints won't adhere well due to the non-porous surface. If the underlying slab can be stabilised, consider removing the current tiles and re-tiling with something more durable and aesthetically pleasing. Alternatively, laying pavers over the top is another option, but you’ll need to address the height difference between the patio and the house floor. Since decking isn’t feasible due to the level height, stabilising the slab and opting for a high-quality tile or paver could be your best bet.
Addressing the drainage issue is important, especially since the area floods during heavy rain. Installing a drain beneath the gravel to channel water away from the patio will help prevent future water damage and prolong the life of your flooring and other structures.
For the outdoor kitchen area, walling in the middle bay is a practical solution that would allow you to create a functional cooking space. Adding an outdoor kitchen with a bench, BBQ, pizza oven, and storage underneath would make this space ideal for entertaining. To protect against wind, consider installing café blinds or screens in the other two bays. These can be easily opened or closed depending on the weather, ensuring comfort throughout the year.
Given that this will be a 3-6 month project, it’s wise to plan each stage carefully, prioritising structural and functional improvements first before moving on to aesthetic upgrades.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc for the reply, much appreciated.
I've just spotted a potential issue with my original plan to just sheet it at the bottom of the rafters.
The end rafter is only half the depth of the rest of them due to positioning of the sliding door.
If I were to instead close in the ceiling between each rafter like this:
This is the depth available based on the end rafter:
If I ran the ledge that the ceiling sat on, flush with the bottom of this rafter, I could have as much as 60mm between the ceiling and the purlin and 100mm between the ceiling and the roof itself (based on a 20mm thick ledge). Is this enough space to run insulation? I could sneak another 10-15mm depth for the rest of the roof as it wouldn't be that obvious the difference in ceiling height between rafters.
If I went with this approach what size timber would I use for the ledge that the ceiling would sit on? Unless there's a metal 'L' bracket that comes in 3-5m lengths? That would give me another 10-15mm depth in theory.
If I use plywood, what thickness of plywood would I need to use for it not to bow over time? The gap between the rafters is 900mm. Or would I need to add some additional supports between the rafters for the ceiling to attach to? I live in SE QLD, so we have humidity and high moisture during the storm season.
If I used a foil board, should there be a gap between it and the ceiling board? ie do I run two 'ledges', one for the foil board and one for the ceiling? I guess that would allow room for any electric cables to run. Would that provide better insulation?
And if used shallow depth LED lights like these, and put two in every second 'bay' and skipped the first bay, would that work? The rafters are 190mm deep with a 50mm deep purlin sitting on top of them.
If this approach isn't an option, do you have any ideas on how to address the issue of the sliding door sitting so high?
For the walled-in bay, could you give some guidance or point me toward some info on how this should be done? ie framing it in, material to use, etc
And what material should be used on the side that faces the outside?
Thanks in advance.
Adrian
Hi @AdrianF,
Instead of a ledge, which will lose space, I'd install batons onto the side of the rafters and then screw up through the plasterboard into them. By doing that, you'd have around 80mm to work with, and that would accommodate 90mm thick insulation with a slight compression. You could use 42 x 18mm for the batons.
900mm is outside the installation guidelines for plasterboard and you would need to use quite thick plywood to prevent it from sagging. It might be best to run a series of noggins between the rafters for additional fixing locations.
There's no need to have a gaps between the foilboard and ceiling boards, but an airgap would increase the insulation value. It is important, though, to have an air gap between the foilboard and the roof sheeting.
Those lights are IC-4 rated, and there is zero clearance required between them and the materials.
For exterior elements, it's best to use fibre cement sheeting for cladding.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
