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Hi All
This can be my first DIY Bunning project.
I would like to make a wooden stain type barn door. Size of opening is width 980 mm width and height 2120 mm
Plz suggest what shall be the ideal width and height I shall go for and what material I shall get from bunnings . Thanks
Hi @shaqqi,
Using the Pinnacle Hardware Nail Holder you should be able to drive a brad nail without a nail gun, but it is still likely you will bend a few.
If you'd like to give it a try, you'll have to drive them down as far as you can before using a Nail Punch to sink them below the surface.
Unfortunately, I am not aware of a 2.5m barn door track, so this is your best option. You'll just have to set the bump stops in further from the ends, so the door stops in the right places.
You can see this in Step 8 of the Instruction manual.
I'm very excited for your project to commence.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Jacob
Hi Jacob
Can you see the difference of pine board and pine dar. will it look bad when I join them together .
I do have a plan to varnish them will that difference will be cover after staining ?
Thnaks
Hassa
Hi @shaqqi,
They are both pine, so if you do stain and then varnish them, the difference in colouring should be minimised.
Mitchell
HI Mitchell
I am in the process of making the barn door as you can see the attached pictures
Now have some queries
Lining board side edges i have cut to the required width now what is the best way to make both side surface as smooth as DAR pine of frame
Furthermore, moving forwards please recommend what tools shall i use for sanding and staining the door.
Shall i used manual sanding block or machine sander (there are so many different type orbital sander, sheet sander, detail sander)
and for staining manually with cotton rag or sprayer (if sprayer then suggest which sprayer will be best suited for staining as well as wall painting which i can use in future.
Thanks
Hassan
Hi Hassan (@shaqqi),
Great job on the barn door so far! To smooth the edges of the lining boards to match the DAR pine frame, you can certainly hand sand using a sanding block to get a smooth finish. However, using a detail sander would make the job quicker and give you more control, especially for smaller or more intricate areas. A random-orbital sander would also be a good choice, possibly allowing it to be used on a wider range of projects in the future. I recommend checking out this guide on How to choose the right sander for the job, which will walk you through the options based on the type of work you’re doing.
As for staining, the stain product you choose will typically include recommendations for application tools. Generally, a rag, brush, or fine nap roller works well for applying stain. In my experience, using a rag gives you great control over the finish, but a brush can help if you're working on larger areas. If you’re considering a sprayer for future use, it can be handy for staining and other painting tasks, but it may not be essential unless you have very large surfaces to cover, and they can be very tricky to use.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi Mitchell
What i understood from your advise and topic link is both detail sander or orbital sander will work in my case and for future use it is good to get orbital as it can be use for walls as well.
You recommending hand application for staining where as after watching videos i found spraying more easy than using hand application therefore asking which sprayer shall i get which will be helpful to this project and also for future paint application to household projects including walls.
Is there any special video r guide available to use the sprayer for staining professionally . what i am hesitant on hand application is that i may apply more varnish in one place than other which will make the texture different.
Thanks
Hassan
Hi Hassan (@shaqqi)
To clarify on staining, while spraying can seem appealing, most people actually apply stain by hand using a rag, brush, or roller. Spraying stain is rarely used, except on very large projects like entire kitchen cabinetry jobs, because it’s tricky to get an even finish with stain via sprayer. Spraying often leads to uneven coats, dripping, or pooling, especially on wood, which can create a patchy or streaky appearance.
Hand application, on the other hand, gives you far more control. By applying with a rag or brush, you can better manage the consistency of the stain across the surface. This allows you to avoid heavy spots or uneven texture, resulting in a more uniform and professional look. Plus, with a rag or brush, you can easily adjust the amount of stain you’re applying to ensure a smooth, even coat.
If you’re set on using a sprayer, a Wagner W100 Wood And Metal Paint Sprayer might work well, but for this door, I’d definitely recommend sticking with hand application for the best results.
Mitchell
Hi Mitch,
We have selected Cabot Interior Stain Oil Based (Cedar) & Cabot’s Cabothane Clear Oil Based and using hand brush for application
I have done the sanding with grit paper 120 and 180 before application of stain.
After applying interior stain oil based, below marks are appearing (pics attached). These are more likely of wood glue that is not letting stain to show wood grains. Can you advise what shall i do to remove this wood glue. Thanks
Hello @shaqqi
I recommend using your sander and sanding the surface more thoroughly until the sections with adhesive have been removed. You can clearly see which parts have been covered with adhesive and where you need to focus your efforts. Once the surface is free of adhesive, I suggest doing a test and applying some stain, observe carefully if the surface will accept the stain. Any section that rejects the stain will need more sanding.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Which grit sanding paper to use ?
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