How to attach a pull up bar to the wall?

[naila123]

Hi all 

I am wanting to make the below pull up bar for my 8 month old baby. So she can practice standing.

For the bar I was going to buy the 12.7mm dowel. What sort of bracket can I use to attach it to the wall per below picture? The bracket can be metal, just want a secure attachment to the wall. 

wooden pull up bar

[Noyade]

Doodling outside.

Fabricate (weld) a 'hook' system that attaches/detaches two arms - that ultimately support the bar.

Serious steel - something like 40 mm X 10mm and on it's edge with steel triangular wedges welded 10 mm back from the hooks.

Once the arms are positioned, with any flex down, these 'triangles' will meet the front and stop any further flexing. I think the mounting screws/bolts must be well above this point - not like traditional brackets.

Just a doodle thought.

Cheers.

(That's 60 mm X 12mm plate in the foreground)

[Noyade]

Worth considering?...

A detachable chin-up bar on a ladder frame.

[Kingleviathan]

I did consider that actually - while certain bigger than i would like, it more aesthetically pleasing than the standard commercial pullup bars made of metal

[Kingleviathan]

Yeah, thanks Dave - i came to this forum cause I wanted to avoid big bulgy bar that stay in the wall and dominate my living room. Was hoping for a custom solution but seems its not as simple as I had thought.

[Kingleviathan]

What about something like this

https://amzn.asia/d/iz4Ue9c 

My doors are frameless... but maybe i could put some kind of wood or metal that painted to match the colour (cold white) of my wall that acts as the frame for the silicon to sit on.  

If this sounds like a good plan what would i buy and any considerations? 

Or

I look at this

I could paint the wood white to Match the wall or get somethin. Once that is done,    I'm wondering if it can we can get screws where the blackbar is and just unscrew/rescrew from the wood board as needed. 

⁰⁰è products 

Theage.com.au  

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @Kingleviathan 

Mmm the first option of that clamp is a no go lol Most trim around the doorframe is tacked on with just nails. It would make for an interesting video of failure 😕

The second bar option could work but the lintel area above the door is unknown. At the moment its been built for plaster and holding the area up,it would not have been built for an extra 80-100kgs of weight. I like how the large piece of timber would distribute the weight. If you look at the right hand side of your door frame there isnt a large piece of tyimber to transfer your weight down to the floor. 

Imagine that piece of timber all the way across the opening but ony held up by a small amount on one side and ?? the other. If you could find the studs above the opening and screwed the plate to them you still end up with the overall weight being transferd downwards. Maybe adding a post either side of the door frame so you can then install the cross beam? Now that would work. It requires considering a few extra things and how to attach your bar but doable.

Dave

[Kingleviathan]

Fascinating.. I'm glad I'm along these questions 

So this is what the door area where i want the bar to go. (There is no door but i think there was in the past before i lived here). The wall is brick.

  

[Dave-1]

Evening @Kingleviathan 

Brick changes things for sure, The doorway should have some kind of lintel across it. I would expect a lintel to be able to carry the weight but could not say for sure. I still think the easiest way to have a support for a pull up bar is the two posts notched with a beam across them. You can also attach it to the wall but this will take the stress from the Lintel and put it on the posts.

Dave

[EricL]

Hello @Kingleviathan 

Have you considered the RTM Wall Mounted Chin Up Bar Pull Up, it is one of the most compact chin-up bars available on the Bunnings website. Since it is painted white, it should blend in nicely and not stand out in your entrance. But in regards to mounting, I agree with @Dave-1's idea of posts and a beam going across.  

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Noyade]

G'day @Kingleviathan 

The Amazon illustration shows a total of eight bolts on the ends and two to connect the raw timber.

My 'experience' with bricks and hammer drills has shown you can blow significant pieces of brick away as the drill exits the opposite side.

This could happen eight times - in those two confined areas.

Plus you may drill just the mortar - and not the brick. The render will certainly be damaged.

Something to consider?

"unscrew/rescrew from the wood board as needed"

I also feel if you keep doing this, the coach screws will eventually lose traction.

I take it the wood seen - is not part of the kit?