The Bunnings Workshop community can help with your home improvement projects.
Gday, new poster here 👋 Excited to join the community.
My partner and I have been wanting to DIY the infamous wavy mirror from Gustaf Westman but are unfamiliar with how to go about this.
We would are unsure of how to create the wavy effect and how to add this to a rectangular prism which would house the mirror.
Any suggestions, templates, resources would be marvellous.
I have attached images of what we would like. It would be a large floor length mirror
Thanks in advance
EDIT: The hardest thing I anticipate is the wavy effect. I have seen we need a jigsaw power tool for that, which we do not possess. Does bunnings offer such a cutting service?
Hi there,
Yes you will need a jigsaw and a lot of patience. Dont push /force it and take it slow.
I would estimate tricky cits like this may take an hour.
Suggest searching if you can get a pattern off the web and trace that onto a piece of mdf board, might be a good starting point.
Bunnings only offer straight edge cuts on timber , not this sort of task.
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @diy2. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about creating a mirror.
It's great to see that @KevinMall has jumped in to give you a hand. They are correct that this isn't a cut we can do in-store, and you'll need to purchase a jigsaw. The XU1 350W Jigsaw will do fine for this job, but I'd recommend upgrading the included blades to Diablo 5 Piece 15-15mm Wood Curve Jigsaw Blades. They'll give you a far superior cut and require less cleanup work.
I've put together some images below of a method you can use to build your mirror. I'd suggest using 9mm MDF and 42 x 19mm Pine for the frame. You'll need some PVA glue, nails, double-sided tape, timber filler, sandpaper, undercoat and paint. I'd recommend finding a mirror first and basing your measurements on that. You might like to screw your frame together and nail the front and back skins on. Timber filler will be needed over all the seams and joins for an unnoticeable transition. Sand it back to blend the areas before undercoating.
You'll need to take your time spacing everything out. The curvy lines appear to be between 1/4 - 1/2 circles. I started with full semi-circles, and that wasn't right.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Workshop is a friendly place to learn, get ideas and find inspiration for your home improvement projects
We would love to help with your project.
Join the Bunnings Workshop community today to ask questions and get advice.