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Hi there,
So we have this hardwood floor that we really love and plan to restore one day but for now looking for a temporary solution to cover it in the kitchen to prevent further damage and make cleaning easier. This is what it looks like:
I am thinking vinyl flooring, something easy to lay and something that doesn’t need to be glued on as I do not want to damage the wood. I am looking for something that will last for say two to three years.
Would something like this work: https://www.bunnings.com.au/senso-3m-rough-light-grey-essential-vinyl-sheet_p0228978 ?
Is there any risk that the wood will get damaged underneath the vinyl and should I just bite the bullet and plan to sand and seal sooner?
Thanks,
Tom
Hi @tom138
From a repair point of view, if you have the time and resources to do a sand and seal, it will save you from having to lay the vinyl sheet down and avoid the risk of moisture damage to your hardwood floor. One of the drawbacks to putting vinyl in is that it traps moisture underneath and if you have any condensation issues along your flooring this is where the damage will occur.
Otherwise, if you are pressed for time the Senso 3m Rough Light Grey Essential Vinyl Sheet can be laid down on your floor without having to glue it down. The common practice is to use double sided tape on the corners just to prevent it from lifting up. I suggest measuring the area you are covering so that you'll get the right length needed.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @tom138
If there are no sources of condensation such as pipework or concrete walls underneath the floor it should be ok. But I suggest a good visual inspection of your floor to make sure that no part of it is showing condensation. If you are satisfied with your inspection, you can then install the vinyl flooring.
Eric
Hello @Tweetyoz
It's great that this discussion has inspired you to install vinyl flooring as well. I recommend using any Heavy Duty Double Sided Tape to keep the corners down and prevent them from curling up. I'm sorry, but there are no videos currently available on Bunnings on how to lay vinyl flooring.
In regards to the quantity that you'll be getting, I suggest making sure to give yourself some extra length just in case the room or hallway is not square.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @EricL,
In the end I’ve decided to sand and seal first as you recommended. I’ve seen some guides but they seem to show floor that is in MUCH better condition than mine. It is not super even so I am worried that I am going to have troubles sanding it to bare wood in all spots. Would the HireTech floor sander from the hire shop be able to deal with uneven surface and level it?
There are some gaps between the timbers. What is the best way to clean the accumulated dirt? Is there a good product for sealing these gaps once cleaned?
Also there is few chipped ones like this one:
What is the best way to fix this gap? If I put putty in, it will be very noticeable. Should I try to cut a piece of wood that fits into the gap, glue it in and sand it smooth?
Lastly, there is few loose ones that move when you step on them. How do I go about securing them? Do I need to pull out the nails and put new ones in? I am just a bit worried I will cause a lot of damage to the surface if I try to get the nails out. Is there a better method than a classic claw nail puller?
Lot of questions…
Thanks for your help,
Tom
Hi @tom138
I'm glad you've decided to sand and seal your floor as this is a much better way to revamp your flooring. Before you begin the first order of business is to repair as much of the flooring as you can. That includes adding more nails to panels that have lifted up and driving nail heads down that have come up.
Sometimes it's not worth removing old nails that refuse to come out as you end up damaging the surface of the flooring even further. it's better to drive them in deeper and covering the holes with timber filler.
In regards to the large chip damage on one of the timber panels, your idea of cutting a similar piece of timber and gluing it in place is a good idea. But before you begin, I recommend doing a bit of an investigation and having a look how far the damage extends to.
Your goal before sanding the surface of the floor is to make sure that every nail head has been driven back down and that the sanding machine will not catch on any errant nail head. All the cracks, holes and splits must be filled in before you begin sanding the surface. This will reduce the amount of repair time you'll need to spend on your flooring.
Once you've done all the repair work on your flooring, you can then begin sanding. The large hire sander should be able to smooth out any bumps or uneven parts along your timber flooring.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let me know.
Eric
Hi @tom138,
I noticed you had a question about the gaps between boards as well. Typically, they remain on this style of flooring, and you'll apply your chosen floor coating over the top. I also have Cypress Pine floorboards, and they all have gaps between them. If you have some exceptionally large gaps between the boards, you could fill them with putty, but it's likely to crack through movement and, as you've already addressed, will probably be quite noticeable. Cypress Pine floors are functional floors, but generally, due to the copious amount of knots, you'll find various defects. I'd recommend you leave the gaps between the boards and apply a few good coats of a quality floor coating like Cabot's CFP that will fill many of the finer gaps.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Afternoon @tom138
@EricL has pretty much nailed it (excuse the pun 
) I would be suggesting the same steps with one added suggestion and that is if you are keeping the existing kitchen maybe remove the kickboards before sanding so you will not end up with a straight line edge from the sander.
I had my floorboards sanded and varnished for the lounge, entrance foyer, hall and a bedroom. The sanders filled the gaps in the loungeroom but not the halle ect. Truth be told I dont see the gaps in the hall but do notice the ones that have been filled lol. My floor actually dips in the loungeroom a fair bit. I cant really do too much as its a problem that looks like its been there for years from a fireplace that was insitu (its gone now) So expect some of you floor not to be super level when sanding.
I like your idea of making up similar pieces for the missing parts of you boards and gluing them in. That should work.
Dave
