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How to renovate a caravan - Part 2

Peggers
Becoming a Leader

How to fix an old caravan

 

Difficulty: Intermediate

 

Don’t let a lack of confidence or experience stop you from taking the plunge and enjoying the freedom of owning your own caravan. It can be relatively easy and inexpensive to buy a retro van and renovate it yourself.

 

This article shows you how to renovate the van. Don’t miss Part 1: How to buy a retro van and Part 3: How to style a caravan.

 

Steps

Step 1

Before any other work is done, you should seal your van to ensure there are no leaks. Even if there don’t seem to be any apparent problems, it’s good to take extra care. Before you spend any time working inside the van, you certainly want to make sure your work won’t be wasted if the rain gets in. If there are any damp patches inside then you’ll know that these areas need special attention.

 

Using something like Selleys No More Gaps and a gap gun, seal all the way round the external top of the van’s edges and across any seals on the roof. Also make sure it’s covering any screw holes. If anything looks even remotely like a crack or gap, then seal it. Likewise check out any holes or screws on the side of the van and any gaps around windows. Keep a wet cloth on hand to keep spreading the filler evenly to give a good finish. Remember that No More Gaps can’t be sanded afterwards, so keep it moving and smooth it while it’s still moist. You can also paint the roof with a decent sealing paint for extra insurance.

 

1. Seal any possible leaks.jpg

Step 2

There are two ways to paint the exterior of your van, but whichever one you choose you need to undercoat. Use a good quality oil-based white undercoat with a roller and spread evenly. Strongly consider two coats - you need to ensure that whatever finish you choose isn’t going to flake or peel later.

 

One option is to spray it. Tape the windows and edges with masking tape and newspapers, and spray evenly with spray paint cans from Bunnings.

 

I prefer to use an oil-based paint with high quality rollers. If you mix in some turps and Penatrol to thin the paint a little it will spread more evenly and settle nicely when you roll it. It’s an easy and cheap method and gives a spray-like effect. Try to ensure you don’t paint on a hot day as the paint can get tacky, affecting the finish.

 

2. Use a quality undercoat.jpg

Step 3

Although the tow bar doesn’t need to be pristine, it will generally need to be cleaned up and painted. Usually there is a load of surface rust that needs to be cleaned up and treated. A decent wire brush and sand paper will get the worst off. Then treat it with some sort of rust remover and sealant. Once that’s done, paint on an enamel paint: use white, black or silver depending on your colour scheme for the van. If the jockey wheel needs replacing, these can be bought from Bunnings.

 

3. Remove tow bar rust before painting.jpg

Step 4

The caravan’s wheels will often need work. Use a wire brush and sandpaper to tidy them up, seal them to stop the rust coming back, and then spray them with silver paint. Tape up the tyre with masking tape and newspaper. One can of silver spray paint from Bunnings will easily do two wheels. If you feel adventurous, then with extra taping and creativity, then you can spray a colour in the centre of the wheel that matches the colour scheme. You can also get some wet look tyre shine spray to make the rubber look as good as new.

 

4. Wheels can be reprayed.jpg

Step 5

How you treat the internal walls will depend on the sort of caravan and the state the walls are in. My goal is usually to get the walls as smooth as possible and then paint them white to give the van a fresh feel. On one van I renovated, the wood finish was so clean and in such good condition that I left it as a wood effect and added paint elsewhere. Leaving the wood gave a modern, mid-century feel. In most cases though there will be chips to the walls that need filling and sanding before painting. The worst case scenario is that the walls are so badly damaged that you need to strip off the wood veneer and start again. In this instance, you will need to buy MDF panels to cut to size. Attach the panels to the van using Liquid Nails and some screws, and then fill and seal the gaps. It can look messy before you are finished, but as long as everything is smooth then the paint will ensure a great finish.

 

5. Get walls as smooth as possible.jpg

Step 6

It’s very rare that the windows of an old van are in perfect condition. Usually one or two will need replacing. Instead of using glass, you can get clear acrylic sheets and cut to size. The sheets normally slot in easily after a couple of screws are loosened on the window frame. They may need some beading around them afterwards to avoid rattles, but the effect is clear and clean and is much stronger and lighter than glass.

 

6. Windows often need replacing.jpg

Step 7

Internal cupboard doors are often tired-looking inside an old caravan, but usually salvageable. Your best approach is usually to take them all off and unscrew the hinges. Fill, sand and then undercoat the doors with an oil-based paint. Then paint them in white or your colour of choice using a quality roller. Clean up the hinges with sandpaper and spray them silver with the paint left over from the wheels. Then reassemble everything and refit the doors.

 

7. Cupboards are usually salvageable.jpg

Step 8

To bring the kitchen to life and give a modern feel, it’s good to replace the work tops with some fresh timber and install a round aluminium sink to replace the old-fashioned sink. For around $90 you can get a cute sink in Bunnings and the timber yard will cut your timber to size. Cut out the sink hole with a jigsaw and seal the sink in place, then varnish the tops a few times to bring them to life.

 

8. Replace benchtops.jpg

Step 9

Before painting the van inside, make sure that everything is gapped and filled. Take a gap gun and filler and carefully inspect the van a square metre at a time, looking for holes, dents and any places where wood has separated. Ensure a smooth surface with sandpaper. It will look messy until you paint, but you want everything solid and free from splits.

 

9. Make sure all gaps are filled.jpg

Step 10

Give the inside of the van a complete undercoat. Two coats of an oil-based undercoat is best. Then add a top coat of white-semi gloss paint and have a careful look at the entire van again to see if any more sealant or filling is needed. Give everything a good sand, and then apply two more coats of white semi-gloss.

 

By this stage, the van should be clean, fresh and reinvigorated. But it will still be something of a blank canvas. In Part 3, you’ll find tips and tricks to decorate and style the refreshed van.

 

10. Two coats of a white undercoat.jpg

 

Materials

  • Gap filler
  • Sealing paint
  • Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Oil-based white undercoat
  • White semi-gloss paint
  • Coloured gloss paint
  • Turpentine
  • Penatrol
  • Spray cans
  • Rust treatment
  • Masking tape
  • Liquid nails
  • MDF panels
  • Acrylic sheets
  • Screws
  • Timber benchtop
  • Small sink
  • Varnish

Tools

  • Paint brushes
  • Paint rollers
  • Paint trays
  • Wire brush
  • Gap gun
  • Screwdrivers (flathead and Philips)
  • Jigsaw
  • Small hacksaw
  • Electric drill

Images

1. Seal any possible leaks.jpg

2. Use a quality undercoat.jpg

3. Remove tow bar rust before painting.jpg

4. Wheels can be reprayed.jpg

5. Get walls as smooth as possible.jpg

6. Windows often need replacing.jpg

7. Cupboards are usually salvageable.jpg

8. Replace benchtops.jpg

9. Make sure all gaps are filled.jpg

10. Two coats of a white undercoat.jpg

14 Replies
Jes09
Finding My Feet

Hi @Peggers I have just come across your renovation series which is great as I’ve just go myself a 70’s pop top Franklin. My question is how did you go about preparing the roof for re sealing? Mine has a lot of silicone already on it and it’s hard to determine where the leaks are coming from exactly. Both ends need attention so I thought I’d see if there’s an easy remove for silicone without damaging the roof and windows. I re sealed the front end j rails already and will need to do the tail end but water is definitely getting in somewhere! 

Jason
Community Manager
Community Manager

Welcome to Workshop @Jes09,

 

We are looking forward to seeing you transform your caravan. @Peggers tackled a Franklin last year - https://www.workshop.com.au/t5/Outdoor/Franklin-caravan-renovation/m-p/30532

 

I trust Rob and other helpful members will be able to assist with your roof repairs - there was a similar topic posted by @JoJo167 a few weeks ago - https://www.workshop.com.au/t5/Outdoor/How-is-the-best-way-to-repair-a-small-drill-hole-on-the-roof-...

 

Please let me know if you ever need a hand getting the most from the site.

 

Jason

 

Brenda63
Just Starting Out

Hi Rob we are in the middle of a Jayco starcraft reno we have completely gutted it stripped of all sealant starting from scratch.

Interested in your picture of kitchen bench with round sink are they white mosiac subway tiles or those vinyl stick on ones.

I like the mosiac subway tiles but hubby is not convinced . thinks the movement of the van will cause problems. if you used the mosiac what glue did you use

   

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Brenda63. It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

 

Let me mention @Peggers so they are alerted to your question and hopefully they can answer it for you.

 

You might like to consider the acrylic splashbacks we have on offer including the Wall Art 2400 x 1200 x 3mm New York White Tile Wet Area Wall / Shower Panel.

 

Caravan renovations are always popular with our community and I would encourage you to start a discussion and share your progress with us. I know I've been looking at potentially starting a caravan reno project myself as all the posts here have thoroughly excited me about the prospect.

 

We can wait to hear more about your project and I trust our members will be more than happy to assist you with any questions you might have.

 

Mitchell

 

linfrank
Growing in Experience

You haven't mentioned how to replace window winders or remove rot.... I don't think you have, unless I'm missing something. Can you explain how to do these things please

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @linfrank. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this amazing project.

 

As you can imagine, caravans come in all states of disrepair, and I believe @Peggers tends to purchase ones that need more of a cosmetic renovation as opposed to a full-blown gutting. Hopefully, he'll be able to show us an example of when he's repaired rot or replaced window winders. However, if you have a specific issue you are trying to deal with now, I'm sure if you post some images, we can advise on an appropriate method of fixing it. Generally, when repairing rot, you want to remove any decomposed and wet timber and dry the area out completely. You can then replace any structural members, bind the site with Earl's 250ml Wood Hardener, patch any internal lining with timber as best you can, and fill any remaining voids with Builder's Bog.

I'm keen to hear more about your project, and I trust our other community members would love to follow along. Feel free to start a discussion to ask your questions and document your project.

Mitchell

 

rosyfb
Just Starting Out

I have just been given a 1978 28foot franklin van to renovate. We are thinking of renovating to put it in a caravan park along the murray river for family to use. Has anyone got some advice either pros or cons. This is my 4th van to renovate but the biggest of all.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @rosyfb. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about renovating a caravan.


With three vans already under your belt, it sounds like you are very accomplished in this area. What sort of advice were you looking for? Were you specifically looking for someone to provide feedback on your choice of location for the caravan? Our helpful members will be keen for you to share any questions you might have. 

 

You might also like to start a discussion where you can document your caravan restoration. That way, you can provide some images and ask for specific advice on your project.

 

I'll be looking forward to hearing more about your renovation and assisting as you progress.

Mitchell

 

molnou
Just Starting Out

Great series @Peggers.  We are looking to buy a 1987 Millard 560SP.  It has been almost completely gutted.  My husband is fairly handy so the how to's are covered.  We are wondering what thickness MDF you would think best and also what materials to redo a kitchen so we don't add too much weight?

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @molnou. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this wonderful project.

 

Hopefully @Peggers can provide some information on what thickness MDF would be suitable for your project. I presume this is for wall linings? I suspect 3mm board would be adequate for the majority of the linings, and it's flexible enough to contour to curves. If you're looking for some extra impact protection, check out the melamine-coated MDF. There is the option of stepping up to the 6mm board, but as you've mentioned keeping weight down is of benefit.

 

Were you planning on scratch building the kitchen cabinetry or using or using pre-made carcasses?

 

Let me mention a few of our caravan enthusiasts, @FloTheCaravan, @twocutekelpies and @VickiD, so they can join the conversation.

 

We'll be looking forward to following your project, and please let us know if you have further questions.

 

Mitchell

 

Johnss
Just Starting Out

Hi @Peggers ,

I am in the process of renovating a food van (a form of caravan I guess). I have replaced timber that suffered water damage and my next job is to replace the exterior trim and check the roof for for leaks before replacing the internal walls and ceiling panels. I have a couple of questions 

1. Can I use silicone to seal the exterior trim or should use a non-hardening mastic.  There seems to be quite the price difference.

2. What are the best options for the wall and ceiling sheets? The present ones seem to be a coated 3mm ply. Is coated 3mm MDF OK (I have seen this in Bunnings) or could it suffer if exposed to water. Is 3mm ply OK if painted with enamel gloss?

3. Is it advisable to paint the roof with a rubberised sealant. I have seen products advertised but am unsure of their value over normal waterproofing of edges and any obvious holes.

After doing all this work I am paranoid about water ingress. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.

Cheers John

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Johnss. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about renovating a van.

 

I trust @Peggers will be able to assist with your questions.

 

I'd recommend using Sikaflex 11FC, a polyurethane adhesive/sealant, for your exterior trim. You'll find it's a superior product to silicones in this type of application.

 

3mm MDF sheets are a common choice for lining a caravan. The 2400mm x 1200mm x 3mm Melamine MDF White is an excellent choice as it has a hard-wearing melamine coating. As with most internal lining timbers, moisture ingress will adversely affect them. This goes for interior plywood as well. If you suspect water ingress, marine-grade plywood would be worth considering. We have larger sheets in 6mm or some smaller sheets in 4mm. These marine-grade sheets will be more forgiving if exposed to moisture.

 

Using a rubberised sealant over the entire roof is a solution if leaks in your edges can't be addressed. I would suggest you first address any areas of concern before applying a full roof sealant.
 

I look forward to hearing from the knowledgeable @Peggers, but let me also mention some of our other caravan enthusiasts, @FloTheCaravan, @twocutekelpies and @VickiD, to get their thoughts.

 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

Mitchell

 

Ruth33
Just Starting Out

Hi from NZ and found this group while looking for answers on google.

 

We are removing tape and it's tarry residue from around windows and joins. A combination of heat gun (not close to windows) and acetone is getting the tar off but is hard work. Is there a different solvent/cleaner that would make this job easier? The back doesn't get much sun and the tape hasn't detoriated as much. I think it's flashing tape.

 

Background

Our caravan is a crusader poss mid 70's. It is permanently located at a camping ground and I believe it has been in this spot for 35 + years. We are at the stage of first no leaks, previous owners adult children had put tape that has lifted and detoriated. Not sure if it was suitable for exterior use. We did realise they had covered up problems and painted over.

 

We are locating the leaks, removing tape and sealing with a combination of Selleys All Clear by the glass and Selleys 3 n 1. I've also then gone over with CRC No Leaks. Strips of cemix roof and gutter tape has been put over the tape on roof, not ideal but removing the tape around windows is a mission and we can't get fully over roof as we have an annex attached. Roof completed and painted. Front window done and no more leaks but inside panel will need replacing as was mouldy from on going leak between panel and window.

 

 

JacobZ
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @Ruth33,

 

Thank you for your post and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

 

It sounds like the method you're using is already going to be the best way to remove the tape residue. Unfortunately, tar tapes are intended to be extremely sticky so removing them can be a pain. 

 

You could try using a product designed specifically for removing adhesives such as De-Solv-it Multi Purpose Cleaner, but it's unlikely there will be a great deal of difference. 

 

If you don't already have one, a good quality scraper such as this Marshalltown Joint Knife 100mm would also certainly come in handy, but please be careful around the glass, I'd hate for you to accidentally shatter it and get injured. Make sure you're wearing your gloves, eye protection, enclosed shoes and long work clothes.

 

Everything else you've said sounds like you're on the right track to having a well-sealed and beautiful caravan.

 

Let me know if there's anything else I can assist with and please don't hesitate to share your project questions and successes when they happen in the future.

 

Jacob

  

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