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How to build an arcade games cabinet

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Difficulty: Expert

An arcade cabinet can provide countless hours of fun for all ages. You can play classic video games for a hit of nostalgia or the latest releases.

 

This step-by-step guide will show you how to build a full-size retro-style arcade cabinet. It includes a comprehensive plan that you can refer to for measurements. We installed a 32-inch widescreen monitor which determined the dimensions of our cabinet. You can obviously install a smaller or bigger screen, and use whatever is your preferred gaming hardware and software inside the cabinet.

 

As this project involves powered equipment, please follow all safety guidelines provided by manufacturers and use the recommended protective gear.

 

Let us know if you have any questions. We’d be happy to assist and would love to see your own arcade games cabinet builds. 

Steps

Step 1

Mark out the cabinet segments on MDF panels.

 

Refer to the plans provided below for measurements. Mark out these measurements on your MDF panels using a tape measure. Pay particular attention to marking diagonal lines and their intersection points.

 

1.1 Sheet marked out.png  1.2 Sheet marked out.png  1.3 Side panel sheet positions.png  1.4 Diagonal plot points.png  1.5 Segment positions.png  1.6 Segment positions 3D.png  1.7 Mark out the sheets.png

 

 

 

Step 2

Cut the cabinet panels.

 

Use a circular saw to cut out all the marked segments on the MDF panels, including the cabinet's top, rear, side, front, and base segments. Make sure to clamp down and secure the panels before cutting. Don't forget to use protective eyewear and a dust mask.

 

Note that the cabinet's base and side segments have square edges. The front facade and hood of the cabinet require angular cuts. Square cuts are required for joining the side segments. I recommend cutting all square cuts first and then re-cutting where required to create the angles.

 

2.1 Clamping sheets down.png  2.2 Cutting segments.png  2.3 Cutting out segments.png

 

 

Step 3

Round the edges of the cut side segments.

 

Using a router and rounding bit, round over the edges of the cut side segments. As in the previous step, clamp down and secure the side segments before routing. Use protective eyewear and dust mask. 

 

3.1 Routing segment edges.png  3.2 Routing segment edges.png 

 

Step 4

Attach the back, front, base and side segments of the cabinet to create a frame.

 

Using a drill driver and countersink bit, place pilot holes around the side segments' edges as seen in the first image below. Space the holes 100mm apart and place them 8mm from the edge. 

Apply PVA glue to the edges of the rear and base segments. Now clasp the two segments firmly using Sash clamps. Screw the segments together using a drill driver and 50mm timber screws as per the second photo below.

 

While waiting for the glue to dry, apply timber filler over the screws to fill the countersunk holes. You can see the filler applied in image three. 

 

Continue this process until you have attached all the panels together to create a cabinet frame. Once done, flip it to a standing position and ensure it is steady.

 

4.1 Pre-drilling and countersinking holes.png  4.2 Screwing segments together.png  4.3 Back segment attached to sides.png  4.4 Back and bottom segments attached to sides.png  4.5 Render back, side and bottom segments.png  4.6 Front segments attached to sides.png  4.7 Render front panels.png

 

 

 

 

Step 5

Attach the cabinet's top segments.

 

Repeat the instructions in Step 4 and connect the top segments of the cabinet together to create a separate section in the top of the cabinet frame. This section of the cabinet will contain the monitor and marquee. 

 

Apply PVA glue to the edges of all cut top segments and screw into place.  

 

5.1 Positioning top segment of cabinet.png  5.2 Render top sections.png  5.3 Render top sections close-up.png

 

 

Step 6

Create an access panel door in the cabinet's rear segment.

 

Mark out a rectangle measuring 550 x 700mm with rounded corners in the lower back half of the cabinet. 

 

Use a jigsaw to cut the marked rectangle as shown in the first two images below. The cut-out rectangular piece will be the access door. The rectangular hole in the cabinet is the door panel. Sand the edges of both the door and door panel to remove any coarse timber.  

 

Next, use a drill driver and 16mm timber screws to fix four hinges to the side of the door and door panel. Connect them together. Ensure that the door opens and closes smoothly.  

 

Now add one side of your magnetic cabinet latch on the door by screwing through the door with your 16mm screws. The other side of the latch is attached to the cabinet's rear segment in a corresponding location so the two will meet when the door is closed. 

 

Finally, drill a 25mm holein your door opposite the hinges using your spade bit. This is the fingerhole that opens the door. 

 

6.1 Cutting access panel in rear segment.png  6.2 Cutting access panel in rear segment.png  6.3 Access cut in rear segment.png  6.4 Rounding corners of access door.png  6.5 Sanding edges of access panel.png  6.6 Attaching magnets to access panel.png

 

Step 7

Install castor wheels in the cabinet's base segment.

 

Flip the cabinet on its side and mark the locations for installing castor wheels in all four corners of the cabinet's base segment. 

 

Now use a drill driver to drill 6mm holes through the base. Attach four castor wheels using M6 bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts with an adjustable spanner.

 

7.1 Attaching castor wheels to cabinet base.png

 

Step 8

Drill the button holes in the control deck.

 

For this step, you'll need a template of your button and controller positions. There are many different options and your choice might be affected by your hand size and the types of games you like to play. 

 

The control deck protrudes inside the cabinet, providing a surface for the monitor to rest on. Refer to the provided plans for the position and size of the control deck.

 

Once you've cut out the segments for the control deck as instructed in Step 1, place a control button positioning template on the deck. Secure it in place with masking tape. Now use the tip of a 25mm spade bit and mark the drill locations for the buttons. Remove the template and drill the marked holes with the 25mm spade drill bit as per the final image below.

 

8.1 Checking angle of control deck.png  8.2 Render control console.png  8.3 Control console close-up.png  8.4 Positioning template for control buttons.png  8.5 Drilling button holes.png

 

Step 9

Create the monitor frame.


Once you've cut out the segments for the monitor frame as instructed in Step 1, carefully 
remove the monitor from its packaging and place it face down on the cut MDF segment. Trace the perimeter of the monitor screen. Remove the monitor and keep it in a safe place.

 

Now mark a secondary line 10mm in from the traced line. This will be the cut line. The frame is intentionally built slightly smaller than the monitor to ensure the screen doesn't fall out. 

 

Cut out the monitor frame. Install it in the cabinet's top half by screwing through the cabinet's side panels. It can be easier to do this from inside the cabinet. Screw up through the control panel and into the base of the monitor frame.

 

Note that the monitor will be tilted backwards to ensure an optimum viewing angle, so ensure the segment directly above the monitor frame is angled appropriately. 

 

9.1 Measuring frame for monitor.png  9.2 Monitor frame cut out and primed.png  9.3 Render monitor frame.png

 

 

Step 10

Prime and paint the cabinet.

 

Apply two coats of primer to the cabinet. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second.

 

Once the primer is dry, you can apply two coats of the topcoat. 

 

10.1 Priming cabinet.png  10.2 Cabinet primed.png  10.3 Painting cabinet.png  10.4 Painting cabinet.png  10.5 Cabinet painted.png

 

Step 11

Install brackets for the monitor screen and test-fit the monitor.


Measure 15cm of your mending bracket. Bend it at the 5cm mark and again in the opposite direction at the 10cm mark. This will create an S-shaped bracket. Adjust your bracket’s shape accordingly to suit your monitor. Create four brackets in total.

 

Affix two of these brackets on either side of the monitor frame using a drill driver and 16mm timber screws. The remaining two will be used to fix the top of the screen later.

 

11.1 Making monitor brackets.png  11.2 Monitor brackets installed.png  11.3 Test fitting monitor.png  11.4 Monitor in position.png

 

              

 

Step 12

Install the marquee display.

 

Cut a rectangle from the acrylic sheet using a circular saw. Make sure the rectangle is slightly bigger than what you need for the marquee opening. You can then easily sand the edges back to get a perfect fit.

 

Run a thin bead of silicone around the perimeter of the acrylic rectangle to secure it into the cabinet.

 

Next, fix an LED batten light to the rear wall of the cabinet, so it is facing the front marquee acrylic sheet. Follow the instructions on the label for installing the light. 

 

Finally, print your design for the marquee and secure it to the rear of the acrylic sheet with tape. You should now have an illuminated marquee display. 

 

12.1 Acrylic and backlight installed.png  12.2 Backlight installed.png  12.3 Marquee installed.png

 

 

Step 13

An optional step (depending on whether your monitor has sound output) is to install speakers in the cabinet. We chose to install speakers and grilles just above the monitor for "in-your-face" sound. 

Drill two holes measuring 100mm in diameter directly under the marquee using your hole saw. Screw the 100mm speaker grilles over the holes.

 

Next, make a hole in one end of Velcro tape. Place a screw in it and then screw it inside the lower section of the marquee behind the speaker hole. 

 

Secure the speakers behind the grilles using the Velcro tape.

 

13.1 Speaker location drilled out.png  13.2 Speakers and grill installed.png

 

 

Step 14

Install the control buttons.

 

Wire the control buttons in the cabinet as per their instructions. Make sure to follow all listed safety precautions.  

 

An optional coin slot can also be added by cutting the cabinet's front panel. 

 

14.1 Control buttons ready for install.png  14.2 Start and pause controls ready for install.png  14.3 Installing control buttons.png  14.4 Wiring controls.png  14.5 Player one control buttons installed.png  14.6 Start and pause buttons installed.png  14.7 All control buttons installed.png

 

Step 15

Mount the monitor and power-up your cabinet

 

Once the controls are installed, mount the monitor and secure the top in place with the two brackets created earlier. Ensure the monitor is secured. Do not overly compress the screen. Make sure that only the monitor's perimeter is touching the front screen frame.

 

Place your chosen hardware inside the cabinet and connect all controls. Power-up your components using a power board.

 

Your arcade games cabinet is now ready for use. Have fun.

 

15.2 Complete cabinet.png  15.3 Complete cabinet.png  15.4 Complete cabinet.png

Materials

  • Five panels of 16mm MDF measuring 2400 x 1200mm 
  • One 2400mm length of 40 x 18mm Tasmanian Oak DAR 
  • Standard sanding sheets 
  • PVA glue 500mL
  • Timber filler 
  • Undercoat 1L 
  • Black water-based enamel paint 1L 
  • Masking tape 
  • Four 25 x 20 x 1.6mm brass butt hinges 
  • Magnetic cabinet catch 
  • Four 75mm swivel castors 
  • 16 x M6 bolts x 25mm, washers and nuts 
  • Timber screws 4G x 16mm 45 pack 
  • Two packets timber screws 8G x 50mm 100 pack 
  • Four pieces mending plate Make-A-Bracket 
  • Clear acrylic sheet 900 x 600 x 5mm 
  • One tube clear silicone 
  • 100mm speaker grilles (optional depending on choice of monitor and sound output)
  • Velcro hook and loop tape 1000mm (optional - for securing speakers)
  • LED batten light 20W (optional - for lighting up marquee)
  • Your preferred electronics such as monitor, computer, speakers and powerboard.

Tools

  • Circular saw 
  • Jigsaw 
  • Drill driver 
  • 25mm spade drill bit 
  • Router 
  • Sander 
  • Paint roller and tray 
  • Paintbrush 
  • Pilot drill countersink bit 
  • 5mm rounding over router bit
  • 6mm drill bit 
  • 900mm sash clamps 
  • 100mm hole saw 
  • Adjustable spanner 
  • Carpenters square
  • Safety glasses 
  • Dust mask.

Images

1.1 Sheet marked out.png   

1.2 Sheet marked out.png

1.3 Side panel sheet positions.png

1.4 Diagonal plot points.png

1.5 Segment positions.png

1.6 Segment positions 3D.png

1.7 Mark out the sheets.png

2.1 Clamping sheets down.png

2.2 Cutting segments.png

2.3 Cutting out segments.png

3.1 Routing segment edges.png

3.2 Routing segment edges.png

4.1 Pre-drilling and countersinking holes.png

4.2 Screwing segments together.png

4.3 Back segment attached to sides.png

4.4 Back and bottom segments attached to sides.png

4.5 Render back, side and bottom segments.png

4.6 Front segments attached to sides.png

4.7 Render front panels.png

5.1 Positioning top segment of cabinet.png

5.2 Render top sections.png

5.3 Render top sections close-up.png

6.1 Cutting access panel in rear segment.png

6.2 Cutting access panel in rear segment.png

6.3 Access cut in rear segment.png 

6.4 Rounding corners of access door.png

6.5 Sanding edges of access panel.png

6.6 Attaching magnets to access panel.png

7.1 Attaching castor wheels to cabinet base.png

8.1 Checking angle of control deck.png

8.2 Render control console.png

8.4 Positioning template for control buttons.png

8.5 Drilling button holes.png

9.1 Measuring frame for monitor.png

9.2 Monitor frame cut out and primed.png

9.3 Render monitor frame.png

10.1 Priming cabinet.png

10.2 Cabinet primed.png

10.3 Painting cabinet.png

10.4 Painting cabinet.png

10.5 Cabinet painted.png

11.1 Making monitor brackets.png

11.2 Monitor brackets installed.png

11.3 Test fitting monitor.png

11.4 Monitor in position.png 

12.1 Acrylic and backlight installed.png 

12.2 Backlight installed.png 

12.3 Marquee installed.png

13.1 Speaker location drilled out.png

13.2 Speakers and grill installed.png

14.1 Control buttons ready for install.png

14.2 Start and pause controls ready for install.png

14.3 Installing control buttons.png

14.4 Wiring controls.png

14.5 Player one control buttons installed.png

14.6 Start and pause buttons installed.png

14.7 All control buttons installed.png

14.8 Coin slot installed.png

15.2 Complete cabinet.png

15.3 Complete cabinet.png  

 

21 Replies
Jason
Community Manager
Community Manager

Thanks so much for putting together this comprehensive guide @MitchellMc. I feel fortunate to have been able to give the cabinet a good workout recently, and it has been so much fun. Building my own cabinet is now on my project wish list. 

 

Also a big thanks to Workshop community member @OzStick for assisting us with the build and providing buttons and controllers. Your expertise was really helpful. 

 

Jason

 

MikeTNZ
Amassing an Audience

Hi @MitchellMc,

Damn, that takes me back a few years!

Well done with this project and thanks for sharing it.

 

Cheers,

Mike T.

michaelgtblair
Just Starting Out

Hello,

Can you kindly confirm the measurements of image 1.4 and 1.5.  They seem to differ...

Is the side width at the base 635 mm or 536 mm?

 

Thanks,

 

Michael

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @michaelgtblair. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this project.

You'll see in image 1.5 that the width at the base is 536mm. In image 1.4, the measurement of 635mm is for the top hood, which extends out further than the base.

 

Are you thinking of giving this project a go? It was a blast to make and hundreds of people of seen plenty of enjoyment from it. I'd highly recommend you give it a crack!

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

 

Blobulant
Just Starting Out

Me and my son are making an arcade game with instructions by @MitchellMc. Two of the diagrams measurements don't match and we can't use one without the other. Neither of the diagrams match up with the planks we have already cut either.

Jason
Community Manager
Community Manager

Hi @Blobulant,

 

We'd be happy to help. Mitch is not working today, so let me tag @EricL who also worked on this project. 

 

Could you please be more specific about which diagrams you're having trouble with? If you highlight over them you'll see they are numbered 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 etc.

 

Thanks, and welcome to the community.

 

Jason

 

Blobulant
Just Starting Out

@Jason We're having trouble with the measurements specified for the arcade game side panels...

 

  • In image 1.3 it indicates that 2x side panels (facing each other, upside down) can be cut from a 1200x2400m sheet of MDF, i.e. each panel's width must be less than 600mm, but...
  • In image 1.4 it says the width of the panel is 635mm
  • In image 1.5 it indicates the panel width is 536mm.
  • In image 1.6 it seems to be saying the panel width is 494mm

We've cut the 'front/top/bottom' panels in images 1.1 and 1.2, but cannot see how they will fit in any of the possible size combinations in images 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6.

 

Please help - we don't want to discover we've cut up a whole lot of (expensive!) MDF that won't fit the side panel dimensions (...whichever ones we should be going off).

 

Many thanks,

Freddy.

EricL
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hello @Blobulant 

 

It's great to see you having a go at building this arcade cabinet. You'll see in image 1.5 the width of the base which is 536mm. In image 1.4, the measurement of 635mm is the top hood, which extends out further than the base. The measurement of 494mm is the interior panel of the base. Don't be discouraged as MDF can easily be modified.

 

If you 've cut the two side panels and they are the same size and shape, I propose positioning the panels you've cut up for 1.1 and 1.2 with masking tape. This will give you a much better idea of their position and if any modifications need to be made. 

 

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

 

Eric

 

Jason
Community Manager
Community Manager

How is the build going @Blobulant? It would be great to see some progress shots when you are able to share some.

 

Jason

 

Skover
Finding My Feet

Hi Guys.

Just drawing out the 2 side panels. but getting a bit confused with the measurements.

so width is 635mm at top.

Bottom is 536mm. cool understand that.

but then you have distance out from the 536 then 76 mm out from there to the front of the console.

that come to 612mm note 635mm.

What am I missing does the front console stick out further than 635mm ?

 

 

Skover
Finding My Feet

OK So Working form the top right corner.

I come down 207mm and mark that. Then down another 166 and in 250 and make another mark which joins up with  the 207mm point.

Then come down at a right angle 421mm. and accross 60mm then 229mm out to the right (to the front of the console) so that comes to 289 mm

Which would mean the the with at the Middle of the unit is 39mm wider.....

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Skover. It's brilliant to have you join us.

 

There appears to be some inconsistency between the image and the dimensions supplied. I can also see that if the top of the hood is 635mm it should extend further out than the console at 612mm. The image doesn't appear to show this, though. From the other images of the completed unit, I can see that the hood does not, in fact, extend out further than the console. 

 

If you can bear with us, I'll have my colleague who put these plans together review them to try to figure out the discrepancy. He'll be on shortly.

 

Many thanks for your patience.

 

Mitchell

 

EricL
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hello @Skover 

 

My apologies for the confusion, can I please ask you for a few measurements on your side panel cut out? If you look at the image below, can you please tell me what is the current width of your panel from back to front of the extended portion where you have the buttons and joystick positioned? I've highlighted it in yellow with arrows at the end.  

 

What width did you cut the bottom of the panel? Once we have those measurements, we'll be able to compare it to the plans and possibly offer a recommendation.

 

Thank you for your patience.

 

Eric

 

Fix ver 4.jpg

 

chocobo_ff
Finding My Feet

@EricLit may be easiest to upload an updated drawing? I tried to replicate the drawing in CAD and the some numbers do contradict each other. This is what I have at the moment.The black numbers are driving, and grey are the driven dimensions.

 

As it is this won't work on a single sheet as the top and bottom widths add up to over 1200mm.The easiest solution would be to reduce the top (635mm) which in turn would reduce the bottom. The main thing I would like to clarify is if the proportions look right with what I have?

 

chocobo_ff_0-1718228604101.png

 

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Great drawing, @chocobo_ff

 

Your proportions look terrific. None are set in stone. I put the design together based on a popular arcade cabinet design, but the measurements were an approximation of it. 

Thanks for your feedback on the measurements. @EricL is busy adjusting them at the moment, and your adjustment of 599.25mm at the bottom is needed. Bringing the hood back to 598mm would allow one sheet to be used as long as the two side panels are offset so the consoles don't collide.

 

Many thanks for your assistance.

 

Mitchell

Skover
Finding My Feet

All good, I just found emails in my Junk folder, thanks for replying.

I however just winged it . I have also used Plywood instead of MDF (mainly because i have a bit of a supply of this.

 

I have put it together and working nicely, just pulled it apart a little to paint it.

Will try and get the final coat on over the weekend and put back together and post some photos for you.

 

Cheers Marc

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @michaelgtblair@Blobulant@Skover and @chocobo_ff,

 

Just a quick note to let you know that we've updated the images for clarity. We can't wait to see your finished projects. Sing out if you need assistance.

 

Mitchell

 

Pokkett
Just Starting Out

Hi Mitchell,

For someone with no skills and no tools, Can you pay bunnings to cut one of these out for you?

I could probably handle putting pieces together.

Thanks.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Pokkett . It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about our cutting service.

Due to the nature of the diagonal cuts, our team cannot achieve them on our saws in-store. The cuts would need to be done with a handheld circular saw at home. Remember, our helpful members are here to assist you every step of the way, so if you'd like to give it a go yourself, we'd be pleased to provide guidance.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

 

woodenwookie
Making a Splash

I've bookmarked this because this is a project I definitely want to make at some point.

 

Did you use an old PC or did you use one of those little dongles that plugs into the TV via HDMI?

 

Also did you have a premade controller or did you get a kit specifically for cabinet mounting?

 

Just getting ideas.

 

I like the idea of a PC due to easier loading of new games but I've got one of those little dongles as well and they're brilliant... well except it runs Android which is another story.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

It's great to hear from you @woodenwookie!

 

This build used a desktop PC. The joystick and buttons are a kit designed to be mounted on a flat panel. They get wired into a hub, but it's a super simple process.

 

Let us know if you need any assistance with your build; we'd be more than happy to provide guidance.

 

Mitchell

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