How to build a pool pump cover

[MitchellMc]

Difficulty: Intermediate

A timber pool-pump cover can enhance your garden by concealing your pump and filter behind beautiful-looking natural wood.

This step-by-step guide will show you how to use ready-made Merbau fence panels to build a sturdy cover that opens wide for easy access to your pump and filter. You can use our measurements or adjust them to suit your own set-up.

As this project involves power tools, please follow all safety guidelines provided by manufacturers and use the recommended protective gear.

Let us know if you have any questions. We’d be happy to help.

Steps

Step 1

Cut frame sections.

The footprint of your pool-pump setup will determine the size of your pump box. Ensure that the frame clears all components and allows access to equipment. You can adjust the frame size to create a larger or smaller box. 

Begin constructing your box frame by cutting up your 70 x 35mm treated Pine. You'll need: 

• Two lengths of 1070mm (for the rear uprights) 
  
  
• Two lengths of 870mm (for the front uprights) 
  
  
• Four lengths of 760mm (to join the uprights) 
  
  
• Three lengths of 1430mm (horizontal sections to join the side frames together). 

    

Step 2

Assemble side frames.
 

Take one of your two 870mm front leg sections and make a mark 70mm from one end. Drill two 4mm holes the depth of the timber in the centre of the area between the mark and the end. At the other end of the leg section, measure 50mm from the end and place a mark. Measure 70mm from that mark and make another mark. Drill two more 4mm holes in the centre of the area between those two marks. 

Repeat for your second front leg section. 

Now switch to your 12mm drill bit. You’ll use this to provide countersinking for your batten screws. 

Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit 20mm from the tip. This tape will act as a depth gauge. On one side of your front leg sections, drill out the 4mm holes to a depth of 20mm. 

Use your batten screws to connect your front leg sections to the 760mm sections. 

Now take the 1070mm sections for your rear legs. Pre-drill as with the front legs, and attach to the 760mm sections. You should now have two completed side frames. 

            

Step 3

Connect side frames.
 

Directly below where your 760mm sections join the front leg sections, pre-drill the side of the frames at the top and bottom. Connect two of your 1430mm joining sections, one at the top and the other at the bottom, with two batten screws. 

The rear 1430mm horizontal joining piece must be angled to approximately 15 degrees from flat. Pre-drill and attach as per other sections. Then cut the tops of the rear legs at the same angle. 

You'll now have a completed frame as per the images. 

              

Step 4

Stain the frame.
 

Take the Merbau stain and apply it to the frame with your brush. One solid coat should be enough, but you can do a second coat if required.

Allow to dry before proceeding to the next step.

  

Step 5

Attach panel to side frame.
 

Take two Merbau panels and cut off the first and last boards. Unscrew the remnants of the cross bracing by undoing the screws and lightly tapping them with a hammer to dislodge them. 

Attach one of the first boards over the outside face of one of the front legs with 25mm screws. Next, place the rest of the panel in line with this first board and screw it into position on the side frame. Once it is in position, attach the last board to the rear leg. 

Repeat for your other side frame. 

Once the side panels are in place, set a guide from the top of the front legs to the top of the rear legs. Cut the panels at that angle with your circular saw. 

                      

Step 6

Cut lid panel and attach bracing.

Take one of your remaining Merbau panels and cut it in half at 900mm to create your two lids.  

Cut two 900mm lengths of your 69 x 15mm Merbau screening to make braces for the cut sections of the lid panel. 

Set these at the cut ends of your Merbau panel. Pre-drill one hole per panel slat with your 3mm countersink drill bit. Attach the brace to the panel with your 25mm screws. 

      

Step 7

Create hinge mounting plates and attach lids. 

Measure the distance between the edge of the screening installed in the previous step and the first bracing piece. This distance should be 200mm. Cut four 200mm sections of your Merbau screen. Position these pieces and pre-drill with your countersink bit as per the images. Attach with 25mm screws. 

Position your hinges over these mounting plates and install them with 25mm screws. 

          

Step 8

Create and mount lid support.

Measure the gap from where your lid meets the side panel to the top of the front horizontal joiner. This gap should be about 65mm.

Cut a section of your 70 x 35mm Pine to fit. 

In the centre of your horizontal joiner, where the two lids meet, pre-drill two 4mm holes. Screw the lid support into position with two of your batten screws. 

This support stops the two lids drooping in the middle and also provides a mounting location for our magnetic door catches installed in a later step. 

        

Step 9

Attach gas struts.

Attach one of your gas strut mounting brackets to the hinge plate and the other midway along your side frame with 25mm screws. Connect the gas strut and repeat for the other side. 

    

Step 10

Cut door panel and mount.

Take your remaining Merbau panel and cut it in half at 900mm to create your two doors. Remove a portion of each door to suit the width of your frame. The two doors' combined widths should be the same as the front of your structure. 

Attach two hinges per door at 200mm from the top and bottom of the door with your 16mm timber screws. Connect the hinges to your frame with 50mm timber screws. 

        

Step 11

Attach magnetic door latches.
 

Attach your magnetic latches to the sides of the lid support. Attach your latch plates to the top corners of your doors. 

      

Step 12

Attach door handles.

Pre-drill 4mm holes in your doors to suit your door handles. Attach door handles to doors. 

You now have a complete Merbau pool-pump and filter cover. 

      

Materials

• Four Merbau fence panels measuring 1800 x 902mm  

• Two 2700mm lengths of 69 x 15mm Merbau screening 

• Five 3000mm lengths of 70 x 35mm H3 treated Pine 

• 1L deck and exterior Merbau stain (can be oil-based or water-based) 

• Masking tape 

• Two 192mm matte black hollow rectangle handles 

• Eight 300mm zinc-plated tee hinges 

• Two 325mm gas struts 

• 8G x 16mm timber screws, 100 pack 

• 8G x 25mm timber screws, 100 pack 

• 8G x 50mm timber screws, 50 pack 

• 100mm batten screws, 25 pack 

• Two 46mm magnetic catches. 

Tools

• Drill driver 

• Circular saw 

• Set square 

• Paintbrush 

• 12mm drill bit 

• 4mm drill bit 

• 3mm countersink drill bit 

• Hammer 

• Clamps. 

Images

                                                                                                

[terrywang]

Nice work, thanks for sharing.

What software did you use for rendering the fastening mechanism BTW?

[EricL]

Hi Terry,

My friend Mitchell uses Tinkercad to do all his renders. It's very handy when you want to make plans for your project. If you have any questions regarding the pool pump cover, please let us know.

Eric

[shaksm8]

Hi there,

What do you do in regards to the Merbau and leakage from water? I understand that it’s pre-oiled and only partially “waterproof”. What can I do to ensure it doesn’t leak out all over my pump during raining seasons?

Thanks

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @shaksm8. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this project.

When you mention preventing leakage from water, are you referring to the red tannins that Merbau timber typically releases when it's new? If so, I haven't noticed any significant tannin leakage from these panels, but you could wash them down with Cabot's 2L New Timber Prep - 2L before oiling them. That would strip any tannins that could leak over your pump.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Tiberiansun]

Hi. Bunnings workshop team.

Isn't anchoring at the base necessary? 

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, @Tiberiansun. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this project.

I didn't anchor the base and haven't had any issues due to that. Perhaps if you had children who would climb on it, you might consider bolting it to a wall or concrete slab. If you are interested in doing that, I can assist with the process.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Tiberiansun]

Dear Mitchell

How about typoon? Will it be safe from typoon without anchoring? If I apply anchoring....is it possible on paving? 

 

[EricL]

Hello @Tiberiansun 

If you are worried about it getting carried away, I suggest anchoring the posts into the ground with concrete. Unless the paving is very thick and incredibly heavy drilling into the paver and anchoring with post anchors might not prove adequate. Please note that anchoring into the ground with concrete means that you'll need to make the vertical posts longer so that it can go into the ground.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Petermac1]

Nice solution to the problem! Any tips for ensuring the assembled frames are at right angles when joined?

Peter

[EricL]

Hello @Petermac1 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us.

To make sure your joins are at right angles, I propose using either a Craftright 300mm Combination Square or an Empire 180mm Laser Etcher Rafter Square – True Blue.

Eric

[Palms128]

Hi, love the project!

Do you know if this would meet the requirements for a CDC in New South Wales for the Pool Equipment to be in a soundproof enclosure?

Thanks!

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Palms128. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this project.

It would be best to contact your local council directly to find out the specific requirements in your area.

Some areas might have rules such as "Between 8pm and 7am weekdays and 8pm and 8am on weekends and public holidays, noise from swimming pool pumps should not be audible in a habitable room of a neighbouring residence.", or others might simply state "Pool pumps need to be housed in a soundproof enclosure".

Although this is not a soundproof enclosure, simply enclosing the pump with this timberwork could allow an audible pump not to be heard in a habitable room of a neighbouring residence. You could also look at adding insulation to further enhance the enclosure.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[stewie07]

Hey, what was the total cost of materials?

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @stewie07. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about this project.

We don't have an exact breakdown of the costs, but the Merbau panels are the bulk of the cost, at $332 for the four panels. With the oil/stain, fixings, hinges, and gas struts, you're looking at around the $500 mark.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[PaulyB]

Hi there, I've started building a pool pump covering using your design. I've had to tailor it a bit for extra storage inside but will be roughly the same concept. I want to make it pretty water tight, mainly to soundproof it. I have a pool and spa pump and when on together they are pretty loud and annoying even to me.  I saw a previous suggestion on the bastion XPS, which looks ideal for soundproofing, so have that covered. I've already built most of the framing, so that's covered. I was thinking of using treated pine fence palings but they shrink. Wondering if you have some suggestions on exterior cladding? Ideally timber, I don't like the colourbond look. 

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @PaulyB. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about building a pool pump cover.

Since you're aiming to make the structure soundproof and weather-resistant, I think you’re on the right track with the Bastion XPS for soundproofing. It's a great material for reducing noise, and using it inside your structure will definitely help with the sound from the pumps.

Regarding the exterior cladding, while treated pine fence palings are a common choice, you're right that they can shrink over time, which can lead to gaps and issues with weatherproofing. If you prefer a more natural timber look and want something that will hold up better over time, I’d recommend considering wood-textured fibre-cement cladding. It's durable, resistant to rot, and doesn't shrink like pine, making it a great option for an outdoor structure. Fibrecement boards (like HardiePlank) can give you a smooth, clean finish while still offering that timber-like appearance when painted or stained.

Additionally, to further improve weather resistance and soundproofing, I suggest installing sarking (a reflective or moisture barrier membrane) over the framing before cladding. Sarking helps protect the structure from moisture infiltration and also contributes to insulation, which will enhance your soundproofing efforts. With the fibre-cement cladding and sarking underneath, you'll have a robust, weather-resistant, and quieter pool pump enclosure.

Remember to consult with the manufacturer of your pool pump and filter to ensure that the enclosure has adequate ventilation to prevent heat damage to the system.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[IanH]

Hi 

The plans specify 325mm gas struts but not the N force. I bought 100N which are nowhere strong enough to hold lid up.

They also aren’t long enough to meet the lower mount midway on side frame.

Can you please advise 

Thanks Ian 

[JacobZ]

Hi @IanH,

Thank you for your question.

My suggestion would be to return the struts you've got and swap them out for these Goliath 380mm 250N Black Gas Struts. The increased strength and length should fix both the problems you've mentioned.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[dejaWCD]

Hello - i'm interested in building the pool pump enclosure based on the plans provided however i need to make some adjustments as my pump is on a corner with 2 brick walls which has a bench that is 23cm wide from the brick wall (see pic). The pool piping is coming out of the brickwork under the bench. Any help and suggestions appreciated.

Q1.So i need to know how i can build the side frame on the side where the unit controller is on the wall (on the right) so it covers everything including the unit controller but still allows me to open the lid at the top and open the right hand door so i can inspect the pump and get in if required - any suggestions? I'm not sure how i can build it so that i can still open the right hand door as it will be an odd shaped door which is has to be cut out to accommodate the bench? Also the corner where the brick walls meet i think i can only have a back upright on that corner that is from the top of the bench to the top (about 130cm less the height of the bench 46cm so 130-46cm = 84cm) and will need to secure it onto the brick?

Q2. Should i be securing the pine supports into the brick and what screws to use?

Q3. I also read on some other threads about soundproofing so wanted to use the recommended  "Bastion 1200 x 600 x 50mm XPS Multi Use Foam Board". How do i install it - do i just cut it out to size so it fits the internal spaces within the pine frame and after the Marbau is installed just secure it (screw?) against the Merbau on the inside?