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I have a patch of 5m X 3.2 in the front yard which I'd like to do up so I can plant some roses and other flowers. Before planting anything, I'd like to first structure it out with some garden edging and concrete sleepers in 2 rows. I have attached a plan I've put together. I wouldn't want to cut the concrete sleepers, so looking to put sleepers that would best fit in the space like Pioneer 200 x 75mm Ironbark Reinforced Concrete Sleeper which are available in 2m and 2.4m sizes
Would appreciate suggestions and improvements on how to go about this plan or any other ideas on better ways of doing the frontyard
Hi @DC15 ,
This sounds like a fantastic project, and I am excited to assist.
Firstly, do you have any photos you can share of the space? Your plans look fantastic, but seeing the actual space will provide context and allow our members to see any things that may come into play that can't be seen in your plan alone.
Do the sleepers back onto a fence or is it freestanding within the garden? I'd have to see the space, but the Matrix 400 x 900mm Charcoal Foliage Garden Edging seems like a good option to create some depth to the project.
The Pioneer 200 x 75mm 1.58m Ironbark Reinforced Concrete Sleeper looks like a great option that can be used with Retain-It Corner posts and joiners; however, you'll need to use the 75mm versions as opposed to the 50mm ones that you've mentioned above and for two courses, you'll want them to be longer. I'd suggest using two of the 75 x 750mm Joiner Posts and four of the 75 x 750mm Corner Posts and concreting them into the ground.
To paint the posts, you'll have to start by cleaning them thoroughly with a degreaser and a wire brush before applying a metal primer such as this Dulux Metalshield Etch Primer.
Your best option for choosing a paint colour is to grab some colour cards from the paint section at your local store and place them against your sleepers. Pick the colour that you think suits you best and have the team at the Paint Desk mix a suitable Metal Top Coat Paint to the colour of your choice. You can then apply 1-2 coats of your paint to the sleepers.
Once the posts are concreted in and the sleepers have been installed, the standard practice is to tap a wedge, usually cut from spare timber, into the back of the sleeper upright to push the sleeper forward. This will make it sit tight against the front of the upright so there is no need for any filler. If you don't have any spare timber or wedges, these Delf 10mm Orange Builders Wedges will work, but you'll want them to sit below the level of the soil.
Allow me to tag @Dave-1, @Noyade and @TedBear for their thoughts.
You might also like to check out our Top 10 most popular raised garden beds for some ideas and inspiration.
Jacob
Hi @JacobZ ,
Thanks for your guidance on this project. Here a picture of the space. The sleepers would be freestanding, supported by the retains it corner and joiner posts.
Hi @DC15,
Has the tap been factored into the plan for the space? Is the garden edging on the top and left side of your diagram so it is concealed but separate from the garden bed?
Keep in mind that your sleeper posts will need to be concreted in, so underground services need to be considered before digging.
Jacob
Hi @JacobZ ,
Extremely valuable points. I almost missed measuring that bit but was initially planning to have the sleepers of the garden bed on both sides of the pipe such that the pipe and meter will be in the garden bed since I don't have any means of cutting the concrete sleepers. Was thinking of then having a partition in the garden bed to prevent any contact between the water system and the soil, and also ensure the meter is accessible.
Alternately, I might have to edging on the left side of the tap and have the sleepers on the right side.
The start of the pipe is about 55 cm from the pathway. The entire system is about 1.2m from the pathway.
Would appreciate ideas.
Hi @DC15,
As long as the water metre and tap aren't in a raised garden bed so they can still be accessed, there shouldn't be any issues, but you'll want to be very certain that the water lines don't run anywhere that you need to dig.
Can you mark the measurements and locations on your plan so I can understand a bit better?
It's a bit hard to be sure what you are saying from the description alone.
Once you've done this, I will be happy to assist you further.
Jacob
Hi @DC15,
Understandably you want to use full-length sleepers to avoid cutting anything, but it is really limiting your potential and will make the front face of the garden bed look a bit odd.
You could use a Demolition Saw to cut the concrete sleepers to sizes that will make better use of the space and keep things even.
This will also allow you to have a much wider garden bed, which at a maximum width of 400mm, isn't a great use of the available space. You should be aiming for each bed to be at least 600mm wide, which opens up your options in terms of plants as a lot of medium-sized plants require a 500mm diameter for growth.
Let me know what you think.
Jacob
Hi @JacobZ ,
I realise that it looks a bit odd due to different sleeper sizes and I'm not for it either. I've used a circular saw to cut hardwood sleepers. Considering concrete sleepers due to the longevity but I'm not sure how hard it would be to cut these concrete sleepers with a demolition saw. From checking online, my local bunnings store doesn't have it for hire.
Does Bunnings offer any stone cutting service at the local stores?
Hi @DC15,
Unfortunately no, Bunnings does not offer this service.
This Coates 230mm Cordless Demolition Saw may be available if the petrol version is not. As these saws are both available for hire in conjunction with our friends at Coates Hire, it would be worth contacting your local store to discuss. It may not show as available on our website, but it could still be possible.
You could also contact a concrete cutting company for their assistance. I imagine they could do this fairly quickly and easily.
Jacob
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