Looking for front yard landscaping guidance

[DC15]

I have a patch of 5m X 3.2 in the front yard which I'd like to do up so I can plant some roses and other flowers. Before planting anything, I'd like to first structure it out with some garden edging and concrete sleepers in 2 rows. I have attached a plan I've put together.  I wouldn't want to cut the concrete sleepers, so looking to put sleepers that would best fit in the space like Pioneer 200 x 75mm Ironbark Reinforced Concrete Sleeper which are available in 2m and 2.4m sizes

• Planning to start off with some garden edging like Matrix 400 x 900mm Charcoal Foliage Garden Edging at the furthest end. Would like ideas here.
• Then use concrete sleepers in a U shape to plant flowers around. Wondering if Jack 50 x 450mm Galvanised Steel Retain It Corner Post Upright Sleeper would serve the purpose? 
• Next I'd like to paint the posts so they don't standout due to the aluminium look. Not sure which paint to use with Ironbark sleepers.
• Any fillers to fill the gaps between the sleepers and posts for the sleepers to be held firmly in the posts?

Would appreciate suggestions and improvements on how to go about this plan or any other ideas on better ways of doing the frontyard

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @DC15 

Thats a nice garden area and raised edges. I was hesitant about cutting the concrete sleepers at first (thinking of the structual makeup of them) but as @JacobZ has mentioned them, I will loose my hesitancy )

If you look in your latest water bill (Sydney water) they actually have a diagram card in the envelope over the minimun spacing around the meter and tap. 150mm under the meter and I think it was 150mm either side of the feed in and then the feed to your house/unit. As long as its accesable there isnt an issue.

So you could have the meter within your garden bed

The only other thing is the section of garden bed that will be raised next to your driveway and the potential of the car door knocking it/blocking access. Only because it came up in another thread. I dont think your new garden bed will be too high to cause an issue but better to at least factor it in.

Dave

[DC15]

Thanks @Dave-1  and @JacobZ !

Extremely valuable inputs. 

After looking at the weight of the 2m Concrete sleepers which are 67Kg each, I've had to drop the idea of using these sleepers since I wouldn't have much help to lift them and put them in place.

I'm looking at some alternate plans, one of them being the use of 200 x 50mm 2.4m Sleeper H4 Treated Pine Sienna MicroPro sleepers. If I have to paint these sleepers, do I start with Cabot's 2L New Timber Prep before proceeding onto next steps of applying a primer and topcoat?

With Adbri Masonry 300 x 160 x 100mm Sandstone Natural Impressions Block most forums indicate they just need to be stacked next to each other or one on top of the other to create more levels and use of a rubber mallet to ensure they are held firm. What would be a good adhesive or medium to glue them firmly?

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @DC15 

Yeah trrying to figure out how to shoft weights around is always an interesting prospect. I see it as a puzzle that might be able to be solved.

I will let @JacobZ answer the painting question as I dont know enough to specify. I do tend to liek the ntural treated look as I find it blends in nicely to the landscape.

I just had a look at the Adbri Masonary blocks info, They have grooves that help lock them together when stacking. I havnt heard of people using adheisve or glue to secure them as they stack together. Adding anything between them will weaken the locking grooves I would think, therfore weakening the engineering that has gone into creating them.

As a last idea There is always other options, How about gabion baskets for the garden area? These dont need to be huge things and Bunnings sells some pre-made Gabion basket  shows a range of sizes. I have used these and they are quite easy to use as well as looking professional. The stones/bricks/rubble and even Timber offcuts I have seen used within them all look quiet nice. You can also make your own baskets easily

Check out my bookmarks under my profile and you will see a whole range of uses. The smallest cage ive seen in Bunnings that may be best for what you want is Jack 650 x 300 x 150mm Black Rectangular Gabion . There is a trick to having them all line up btw, so if you use them just let me know

Dave

[JacobZ]

Hi @DC15,

From my own experience, having foolishly done it and dealt with a sore back for days afterwards, installing concrete sleepers is not a one-person job. Without help, this is a wise decision.

The Sienna MicroPro sleepers are a great option for this project that are much more manageable alone. They can be cut with a standard timber saw, so they suit your project well. 

It is best not to paint sleepers in retaining wall applications as it will inhibit their ability to breathe and shed moisture which can lead to premature rot.

You might like to have a look at the advice given in How best to colour AND protect treated pine retaining walls as there is some good advice and discussion on this topic.

The installation instructions for the Adbri Natural Natural Impressions Blocks do not call for an adhesive, as the lip on the back edge locks everything in place, but for added peace of mind, this Liquid Nails Landscape Adhesive is the way to go. Check out the below diagram for a cross-section of a retaining wall using the Natural Impressions blocks.

 

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[DC15]

Thanks @JacobZ !

Good to know that the  Adbri Natural Natural Impressions Blocks lock in well. So I can avoid any adhesive.

With the painting of Sleepers I'm a bit confused. The other forum has few suggestions to avoid painting and some have suggested to use a water-based paint and even with the water-based paint, some indicate rot on the backward side. 

In your experience, how long do these sleepers last without any paint? And if painted, what would be the steps to proceed.

[JacobZ]

Hi @DC15,

The treatment includes an antifungal element that allows the timber to get wet without rotting. The concern with painting the sleeper is that it creates a non-porous coating that will trap water inside the sleeper. H4 treatments allow timber to get wet, but they are not designed for timber to be constantly wet, so locking moisture inside the timber is not ideal.

H4-treated timber can reasonably be expected to last 15-20 years without any additional coating or maintenance. Painting them will likely decrease this life expectancy for the above-mentioned reason.

If you went with timber sleepers, I would advise against painting them.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob