How to remove outdoor wooden steps?

[Kvic]

I have a staircase in the backyard garden and I want to remove it to clean and add drainage under the steps.

Messy

I do not see a easy way of removing these steps.

Can not see anyway of removing the step on surface.

I don't want to destroy the steps but I see no other choice unless some one a better solution?

[Kvic]

Yes it seems I like the steps since cleaning and may keep it while finding a new solution for the drainage problem.

I have also started cleaning the wall of the house as it has mould as well but have found many cracks in the mortar that I had not noticed before. I have the paint to cover the wall when it is all clean but do I need to worry about these minor hairline cracks and what should I do with the larger one's?

Mouldy WallWhite marks are hairline cracksLarger CrackesThe wall dried and turned white around cracks

I assume the area around the cracks that dried first indicates high post or lifting around these cracks?

[Dave-1]

@Kvic 

I actually have a worse instance (the render has been cracked and fallen off sections of my retaining wall. Thats going to be a project all by itself!) You cracks are fine but def would hit up the paint people as there may be particular paint to take care of the cracks and also the leeching that is happening. For the larger cracks at the base I really dont know other then removing the cracked pieces and then re rendering the area. I only say that becaus ethere is water at the same level as the cracks. If you arnt worried about that then possibly leave it and keep an eye on it?

Dave

[Kvic]

Thanks Dave, I will paint the wall and render the wall.

[EricL]

Hello @Kvic 

Your idea of cutting the steps is actually quite sound. But instead of cutting it in the middle, I suggest cutting it at the ends with a reciprocating saw and a Diablo 9" Steel Demon Reciprocating Saw Blade For Thick Metal. This blade will cut right through the nails or screws that are holding the steps to the timber stringers. If done properly only a small amount of the timber steps will be cut off.

You can then proceed to the next step and use a hole saw on the Dynabolts. This will allow you to pull the stringers off the wall with a small amount of damage. The hole saw must not be very big so that it does not compromise the strength of the stringer.

On the condition that the cuts made to the steps and stringers are minimal, it might be possible to re-assemble the steps. However, it will be smaller than its original size as some trimming will be necessary to the steps.

Eric

[Kvic]

The outcome from the steps.

Finish Job

The painting of of the stairs with wood stain has the stairs looking good enough to keep. I had to paint the stairs a few times as they were very thirsty but now the concrete around the entertainment area is showing up a need to be repainted.

So here we go again, I need information about prep and painting of this concrete surface.

The water problems pointed out at the beginning of this story has improved were I see only limited clear water but before painting I feel I can further improve the water problem by cutting the concrete in front of the bottom step with a catchment and then cutting a drain line away to the stormwater pipe.

Drainage Design Area

So how can I go about cutting this concrete which is 100mm thick, fit a slim line drain with black cover that sits even with the surface.

Then I feel I could then paint this concrete surface but then I feel the Besser block with look under stated. I have pressure clean these blocks and I think over time and dryer weather they could improve unless there is something more I can do, obviously painting is not an option?

 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Kvic,

Your stairs are looking great!

Cutting a channel in 100mm thick concrete is likely something best left to the professionals. It would be remiss of me not to let you know that we do hire a Coates Demolition Saw, but I certainly wouldn't advise you to attempt this work yourself unless you have previous experience with such a machine. Not only is it relatively dangerous work, but I can imagine the machine is quite unwieldy.

Once you've had the channels cut for you and the concrete removed, you'll be free to install your slimline drain and connect it to the stormwater line.

I typically wouldn't advise painting a retaining wall unless it had been waterproofed on the rear side. The paint will act like a plastic bag on the front side, and water will fill up behind it, eventually pushing the paint off the wall.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Kvic]

Thanks Mitchell

I have used grinders before and understand that cut materials fly about so it would be useful to wear a full face mask, place a water hose on the cutting area to contain dust, ear muffs and work away from walls of the direction of flying debris. I am also strong enough to control a heavy and vibrate device.

I think I am up for this challenge and hire that machine.

I assume that the slimline drain system is higher than 100mm so I would dig out some ground, fill it with a base and concrete and while the concrete is wet push the drain channel into the concrete to level the top of the drain with the concrete area. 

I don't plan to paint the blocks but before I cut the concrete I might spray my friend the bleach some what weakened or not on the bottoms of the blocks and pressure clean them again with a diluted acid for the the white salt crystals but I assume that I need to be careful not to damage the block? 

[MitchellMc]

I'm also quite proficient with angle grinders, but I'd have to have a good hard think about whether I'd be keen to have a go with one of these machines @Kvic. It might be that I am overly aware of the dangers of angle grinders, so this concern transfers even more to the larger and more powerful version. Just be aware that these types of tools are typically used by trade professionals who have had training and a supervisor that overlooks them.  It's great to see you're aware of the required PPE gear.

The Everhard 1m EasyDRAIN Compact Polymer Grate And Channel is 80mm high, so it will need something to raise its height slightly. I like the idea of embedding it in concrete, as you can then tap it down to be flush with the surrounding surface.

I would imagine it would be quite difficult to remove that white salt staining (efflorescence) from the wall as it's migrating from within the blocks to the outside. As you've mentioned, you'll need to be careful not to discolour the blocks further, so I would recommend doing a test section before committing to the whole wall.

Mitchell

[Dave-1]

Good morning @Kvic 

I was nervous about cutting concrete and actually got my mate who is a carpenter/builder to do the cuts for me and then I removed the concrete. 

Things I am aware of now when cutting concrete.

The depth of the concrete could be anything really. It depends on who put it in originally and the dips and turns of the ground underneath.

I had the foundation of the wall under the concrete I was cutting just like you to put in drainage. 

Is there any outside garden lighting/power that may have been run under the concrete before it was laid?

The difference between myself cutting the concrete and someone who does it all the time is a huge difference. I was able to fit pavers in the cut as the line was so straight. I know if I cut it... well I am sure it would have been jagged for all sorts of reasons. 

Fix water ingress issues in garage is the project that shows the cut across the driveway. I was lucky as it was just one long cut as the driveway wasnt conected to the slab of the garage.

Dave

[Kvic]

Thanks Dave

I have all the plans for the house which does show where all the utilities infrastructure is and pretty confident about not hitting something essential but I did take in Mitchell concerns and contacted hipages for a quote.

I had a concrete cuter tradie come out and take a look at this job, still waiting on the quote, while he agreed to my drawing above he made an experienced observation that I did see and made an unexperienced decision.

The concrete is sloped to run water to the centre of the entertainment area and running the slimline drain in a different direction to gravity I would end up with a drain that would be lower than the concrete surface at one end or a drain that was level with the surface but the water would sit in the drain.

The solution seems to be placing a grate on top of the concrete and cement the channel back in with a slant to runoff the water to the storm water drain that is shown on the house plans.

I want the drain to be as flush as I can get it for safety but I should consider a grate that sits on the concrete with shoulders that sit inside the channel to hold it in place which would also hide the cut surface and be a few mm higher than the surface.

But I can find this grate at bunnings as yet or if some one has a better idea