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Are plants struggling in new garden?
I’ve got a few plants changing or struggling and I’m not sure whether they are just changing with the seasons or whether there is a problem and I need to do anything. It includes day Lillies, woolly bush, Chinese fringe flower, ascot rainbow, kangaroo paw. Could someone take a look at the photos and tell me if any action is needed? Thanks!
woolly bush sun facing side.
woolly bush shade facing side.
Sorry my shadow is in some of the photos.
Thanks for your thoughts! Deborah
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Planting and Growing
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Re: garden in new build 5 months old
Hi @deborah1,
As the temperatures drop, you will notice some changes to your plants as they move away from active growth over the cooler months.
I think they look fairly healthy, but you could always give them a good water with some Seasol mixed in. This would provide them with a quick boost of nutrients to help them prepare for the cooler months ahead.
I can't see anything that jumps out at me as being too concerning, but it is certainly worth having others' opinions. Let me tag @Noelle and @mich1972 to see what they think.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Jacob
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Re: Are plants struggling in new garden?
Hi @deborah1
I agree with Jacob that everything looks to be OK. As the weather cools, flowers will fade and lush new growth will take on a more mature appearance.
An application of Seasol may well help plants to tolerate the cooler conditions better by strengthening root systems.
Just because the weather is cooler and plants are not growing as strongly, don't forget to water them if rains are scarce - most plants need water all year round but certainly less of it over the winter months than in summer.
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Re: Are plants struggling in new garden?
Good afternoon @deborah1 Great advice from Jacob and Noelle. Just one thing I would add to this and if it was me this is what I would do. Push away the mulch around each plant so the water can penetrate better and also act as a ‘ well ‘ it’s best to keep mulch away from the stem. 🙂🌿 Good luck and keep in touch
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Re: Are plants struggling in new garden?
Great thanks. I’ll do that. Im a bit concerned about the woolly bush. Whatever is causing the browning seems to be slowly progressive as I pruned it off in the past a month or so ago. Any ideas?
thanks!
deborah
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Re: Are plants struggling in new garden?
Hi @deborah1,
How often are you watering these plants, and are they on a clay base? I suspect they are either over or underwatered. Check the soil by sticking your finger 5cm into it. If it is dry, you need to water. Alternatively, if you've planted over a solid clay base, their roots may constantly be sitting in a pool of water, which can lead to root rot.
Mitchell
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Re: Are plants struggling in new garden?
They are watered twice a week by the overhead sprinkler for about an hour. The soil had become compacted so I’m working through the plants following instructions from you guys: remove excess mulch, clear a space around the stem, loosen the soil gently around the roots, and apply a small amount of compost to the top. Is that ok?
Also how should I change the watering schedule as the season changes? Should I halve the time, or maybe 2/3 of the time the watering system is on?
thanks,
Deb
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Re: Are plants struggling in new garden?
Hi @deborah1
Loosening the soil, pulling back the mulch, and adding a bit of compost are all perfect moves to help your plants breathe and recover. Compacted soil can suffocate roots and trap moisture in the wrong places, so gently loosening it allows water and air to reach the root zone properly. Just keep the compost layer thin (around 1–2 cm), and avoid piling it right up to the base of the plant—leave a small bare ring around the stems to prevent rot.
As for watering, since you're heading into the cooler months, it's smart to adjust the schedule. Plants don't need nearly as much water in autumn and winter, especially if there’s regular rainfall in your area.
Rather than running the sprinkler twice a week for a full hour, you can reduce both the frequency and duration. A good rule of thumb is to halve the watering time and monitor the soil. So instead of an hour twice a week, start with 30 minutes once a week, then adjust depending on how damp the soil stays. If it’s holding moisture well and not drying out too fast, you can ease off further—maybe down to every 10–14 days.
Also, keep an eye on the leaves and soil. If the leaves start to yellow or feel droopy, it could be too much or too little water, so tweak accordingly.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric

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