Wall mounting 50kg boxing bag

[nickholme]

Hi guys,

Hope everyone's staying safe! 

I recently bought a boxing bag to keep me occupied during quarantine along with a wall mount (this one: https://jimbradley.com.au/collections/punch-kick-bag-accessories/products/wall-mounted-fixed-bag-arm) with the intention of mounting it on a brick wall in my garage. 

I've attached a photo of the garage below. After doing some reading online I'm a bit paranoid about the load on the wall and wondering if anyone had any thoughts on whether the wall should be able to handle the load? It's single brick. 

Would love any thoughts or advice. 

Cheers,

Nick

  

[nickholme]

Thank you so much @MitchellMc & @ProjectPete - really appreciate the info and support. 

Enjoy the rest of the week! 

[TedBear]

Maybe I'm a safety freak but, given that the bag will be a pulsating load, not a static load, I wouldn't be trusting 4 bricks to stay put while being levered sideways. It would be wiser to bolt 2 lengths of timber up the wall, attaching to at least 6 well spaced bricks, then attach the brackets to them. That way the timber can absorb and distribute the impact forces into a wide area of the wall instead of just 4 hollow bricks taking it all.

[kvothe1]

Just thought i'd leave a few tips to anyone else reading who's working on a similar project as i've just finished mine.

Some considerations for the wall bracket: 

- Anchor points. The more anchor points on the bracket the better. I got mine from punch equipment which has 8 anchor points. If you've already bought your bracket and it doesn't have many anchor points, consider @TedBear's suggestion of bolting timber to the wall and attaching the bracket to that. 

- The distance of the hook/bolt from the base of the bracket will determine the amount of stress on the wall. The eye bolt of the bracket I got was 72cm away from the wall which was definitely sufficient space for the bag to swing around. Just a good consideration when searching for a wall bracket.

Buying a spring:

Most of the stress on the wall will be from the bag tugging down on the bolt and thus the bracket.

- Weigh your heavy bag and buy an appropriate spring for the bag weight. E.g. if the spring is made for a super heavy bag (50-70kg heavy duty spring) and yours is ~30kg, the spring will just be solid and not absorb any shock. Ringside has some good heavy bag springs for different weight ranges.

- Consider the length of the spring as the heavy bag will be positioned slightly lower (depending on the length of the spring). This would also determine how high the wall bracket would be installed on your wall.

[Jason]

Great tips @kvothe1, many thanks for sharing. It would also be fantastic to see a photo or two. 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're so pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading more about your projects and plans. It sounds like you have plenty of experience and knowledge you can share with the community, and we're certain that you'll get plenty of helpful information, advice and inspiration from others in return.

Please let me know if you ever need a hand getting the most from the site, or have any feedback about how we could improve Workshop for you. 

Thanks again,

Jason

[JustinMcAbbe]

Hi Team 

I am about to do the same thing, but i was thinking just using a single RammSet/ DynaBolt into the roof of the concrete garage and hang the heavy bag, its going to be a 6 ft bag, so pretty heavy.. After reading this, Maybe it cant hold the wright, any thoughts? Wight would be like 50 kgs, iits going to swing a bit The more i write this, i dont think its going to work with a single bolt book Any feedback would be great

- https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-8-x-45mm-dynabolt-plus-hook-2-pack_p2262187

- https://www.fairtexaustralia.com.au/~5025218

[TedBear]

Hi @JustinMcAbbe , you are wise to reconsider hanging the bag on a hook into concrete. Dynanic loads have very different reactions upon anything they are attached to, compared to a static load. The hook might take the static weight of 50kg but that's not what the hook and concrete garage will have to deal with. It would be wise to mount a long and strong timber beam across the area, (how wide is your garage? 2100 to 2400 would be good) using a number of anchors, then attach a strong hook to that.  That way the shocks and swaying forces from the bag will be transferred into the fibres of the wood, which have natural flexibility and not into 4 closely positioned steel anchors in concrete, which has poor absorption properties and would likely break or pull out after a few uses.

[JustinMcAbbe]

@TedBear  Thank you very much, thats a great idea, bit more work, but i'll consider your idea, else i'll get the wall mount.. 

btw, whats the best way to secure the beam to the garage?

[TedBear]

@JustinMcAbbe because I am a safety freak (I attribute my old-age to that, plus some luck of course), I would be wanting to run a beam across the ceiling to the nearest walls. Attach that with loxins to the ceiling, slightly staggered holes, to prevent creating a straight fracture line, then also extend a length of the beam (say 350mm)  down the wall each side. Attach them to the wall and then to cross beam with steel angle brackets. This is to help absorb the twisting pulses from the bag and also help take ome of the beam's weight, given that the loxins will get some twisting action, which they aren't good at. That way it should all hold together under the circumstances that it will need to deal with (without bringing the house down). I'll tag @EricL to see if he can offer his more specific knowledge on the the latest attachment products into the concrete and walls.

[TedBear]

@JustinMcAbbe.... Just an extra thought....  are you able to put the bag near a corner?

A corner is a stronger part of the structure (but necessarily of the ceiling) and the moving/swaying forces will be transferred to that stronger area.  If so, you could put some padding on the walls to catch the bag as it swings, which will also limit its swaying action on the beam and ceiling.  It would also mean you can a shorter support beam and still get support from the 2 walls.

I have included a photo of what I made to support a "T-Rex style" exercise unit in the corner of a metal shed. No ceiling, but then the unit doesn't weigh much and the forces on it are much gentler than would be for a punching bag. My upright timbers go to the floor due to the fact that the working forces are pulling it away from the wall and also being no ceiling support. (There are corresponding uprights placed behind the wall lining too, bolted to the shed frame when I lined it, so nothing is going anywhere it shouldn't.)

I hope it isn't sideways???

[EricL]

Hello @JustinMcAbbe

Thank you so much for joining the discussion and sharing your query about installing your own punching bag.

It's great that you've received fantastic advice from @TedBear. His latest suggestion is impressive and I subscribe to his philosophy of safety and over-engineering. The loxins or Macsim M8 Yellow Zinc Medium Duty Macloc Anchor - 10 Jar are good traditional anchors that provide excellent holding strength. You can also use a Ramset 10 x 100mm Galvanised DynaBolt Plus Hex Nut Bolt. These types of anchors are known as expansion anchors as they wedge themselves by getting bigger as they get tighter.

I recommend considering the  Ramset 300ml Ultra Fix Plus It is a fast cure, styrene free, medium duty adhesive for anchoring threaded studs and reinforcing bar into solid concrete, stone, hollow brick, and hollow concrete block. This is a chemical anchor that bonds to the substrate of the wall. This is a sample of the Ramset M12 x 160mm Zinc Plated Anchor Stud - 4 Pack used with the Ultra Fix Plus. Please keep us updated, any photos you can share while installing your punching bag would be much appreciated.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric