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G'day all,
Looking to insulate and line my shed which I want to convert into a mancave. I've been exploring whether or not I would benefit installing a Steel Stud & Track Wall over a traditional Timber frame. I'm planning on lining it with high density Gyprock (13mm) or even fibre cement sheeting.
I've been exploring the Rondo design manuals on how to go about this. I'd prefer to keep the wall as close to the colorbond wall sheets to maximise space in the shed, but this is posing a problem. Initially, I received advice that this could be done by securing the base track to the concrete slab and attaching the header track to the beams at the top. But this would be considered an "External" wall and as such, would require 1.15 BMT gauge. I've had this quoted and it's come out much more expensive than first thought.
I could reduce this cost by going down to 0.75BMT, but the wall would need to what's considered an "internal" wall. I would not be able to attach anything to the wall beam / columns. I'd need to attach the header track to the Truss / Rafter. My shed is constructed as a Portal frame and the truss/rafter is connected to the columns with a knee brace / haunch brace/cleat. If I was to move the walls in toward the centre of the shed and clear the columns, I could make the attachment at the top no issues. But I'd be sacrificing a fair bit of space to do that.
Hello @ruredi13
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your question about your steel shed.
Converting your shed into a mancave sounds like an exciting project! Since space is a concern, using steel stud and track walls close to the colorbond sheeting could maximize your floor area while giving a sleek, modern finish. The advice about going with a heavier 1.15 BMT gauge for an external wall makes sense for stability, but as you’ve said, it can drive up costs.
To cut costs and still achieve a strong, insulated wall, you could consider the 0.75 BMT option and classify the structure as an “internal” wall. By securing the header track to the truss or rafter, instead of the beams, you won’t need the thicker gauge. If your shed’s portal frame structure allows you to make these attachments to the rafters or trusses without obstructing essential elements like knee braces or haunch braces, this method will work well, though it may mean moving the wall a bit inward.
I understand that you're not keen on a timber frame, but if you are after maximum use of space, I suggest reconsidering the advantages of a timber frame.
For insulation, the store has a range of high-density insulation batts suitable for both steel and timber frames, so you can keep things warm without using too much internal space. And for lining, high-density 13mm Gyprock or fibre cement sheeting would both be sturdy choices; Gyprock will give a smoother, interior-like finish, while fibre cement is more resistant to moisture if your shed environment tends to be humid. Good luck with your mancave setup—it’s going to be a great spot once it’s done!
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Good Morning @ruredi13
Welcome to The Bunnings community pages 
There are a bunch of questions within about insulation in here 
I like the false wall idea as being the easiest and cheapest way to give a framework to install insulation and a smooth pollished finish.
Having an air gap between teh metal wall and the insulated false wall would work in your favour as well.
When I retro fitted my garage with a false wall I installed the false wall between the brick pillars to save space, you could do the same type of deal or even install each section as a stand alone and leave the support posts viewable. Garage lining for stud walls stage 1 is my project, there are a few in the sequence
Alternativly I have been watching this companies product (in the big blue F social meadia place) for awhile and it really seems it could fit your situation. Durrapanel is the products name and Ive actually filed it away for if I ever want a quieter/cooler room, the thickness of the product may well be worth the sacrifice for the sound and heat insulation properties. It also looks very easy to install.
Dave
