How to get a stable start when drilling into brick?

[barydos]

Hi all,

I've already drilled in few holes into brick around the home (installing security cameras + mount for hose), but I never feel comfortable or consistent with it. The bricks aren't smooth, so it's difficult to get a good start without slipping - which is why my hose mount is so wonky 😆

So far, my journey has taken me from using a cordless drill - which took FOREVER - to switching to a corded sds rotary hammer drill. While that makes drilling easier, I still have the issue of getting a good stable start without some slippage. 

I ended up getting a punch set (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-punch-set-pin---6-piece/579939.html) and hammer into the brick before i do a weaker slow drill before i feel confident in a high speed drilling. But it still takes ages and not even sure if it makes a huge difference.

But I still feel like I'm not doing it right. I eventually want to install a J channel in my garage (brick wall) to put up some gym mirrors. What do you suggest? Is there a particular punch set recommended for masonry? Should I have hammer mode off when starting off? Do I do a pilot hole? I still need to prevent slippage at the start though. Am I supposed to have the drill spinning fast before even touching the wall?

Anyway, sorry for the wall of text/questions. I'd love to get some advice here.

Thanks!

[EricL]

Hi @barydos 

Can you please tell me the brand of the masonry drill bit you are using? It could be one possible reason why you are drilling so slow into the brick. I also suggest having a quick look at this discussion - How to drill into masonry? by @bradthumb. 

I propose practicing your drilling technique into a spare brick. Going too slow will make the masonry bit travel, going too fast will heat up the head and ruin the bit. I suggest trying this technique, use a smaller drill bit to begin with so that you have full control of the masonry bit, drill to the depth that you need to go to. It is easier keep the drill bit stationary when the bit is not so big. Once you've drilled the primary hole you can then make it bigger using the larger masonry bit.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[J-P]

What had always worked for me is starting it slow and then to full speed. Keep in mind to push it really hard against wall all the time. If the hole still takes time then is it the right bit?

[EricL]

Hello @J-P 

Thank you for sharing your masonry drilling technique. Let me tag @barydos to make them aware of your suggestion. I was wondering as well if it could be the masonry bit that is failing and is therefore causing slow progress when drilling.

Eric

[barydos]

Hi @Eric, I believe I was using the masonry bits from here: https://www.amazon.com.au/Bosch-V-Line-Titanium-Screwdriver-Ratchet/dp/B00GGKMNTO

I think previously, I was able to drill (using cordless drill) reasonably (lots of pushing effort) and then it got too hard in the middle. Ended up using an SDS rotary to get through to the desired length.

Using the smaller bit for a smaller hole to guide is a great idea thanks!

[MitchellMc]

Hi @barydos,

Can I please confirm that you are running the SDS rotary drill in masonry hammer drill mode? Typically, there will be three options, a straight drilling mode for timber and steel, a chiselling mode for removing things like tiles and the masonry hammer drill mode. 

I do note that the masonry drill bits in that kit don't appear to be a style that would fit into an SDS drill. SDS bits have a specific locking shank. Those in the kit appear to be for a standard hammer drill. This might just be the wrong set, but the style of bit is important whilst troubleshooting issues.

You can try beginning your hole in non-hammer drilling mode to stop your drill from skipping across the surface. Place your drill bit in the right location, and with pressure on the drill, start drilling slowly. Do not go full speed. This will grind away the surface and create an indentation. You can then switch into hammer drill mode and create the hole. The vibrations from the hammer drill mode are what is causing the drill to skip across the surface, and having a locating indentation should assist. As mentioned, do not run the masonry bit in non-hammer drill mode at high speed, as you'll burn out the tip.

As above, masonry drill bits can burn out and round over their tips. I've had many customers return to the store with masonry bits not drilling. In most cases, it's from running them too quickly or hitting reo-bar in concrete. If your bit has dulled, it could make it hard to start your hole. Feel free to show us a closeup of the tip, a full-length shot showing the shank and a picture of your drill with the mode selector in frame.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[MikeTNZ]

Hi @MitchellMc,

I'd just like to point out to those above that you shouldn't ever need to put a lot of force on a masonry drill for it to drill correctly.

The idea is that gentle pressure on the drill unit itself will allow the tip to bore into the material and the flutes in the drill bit to clear the material in the hole as it is drilled.

Putting too much pressure on a masonry bit will ruin the temper (by overheating it) of the carbide tip and make this blunt, rendering the whole drill bit useless, it is that tip that does all of the actual drilling.

Them SDS bits are not cheap and ruining one by mis-use is simply poor economy.

Also, most SDS drill motors/units, have a variable speed trigger, if you start off slow, so that the drill bit doesn't jump all over the place, sometimes "pulsing" the trigger gently, the tip will eventually sort itself out and start to bore into the material, just take it quietly until you know that the drill is about 5-10 mm into the hole.

I use a masonry drill quite frequently as an Electrician and I offer the following advice:

Let the drill tip do the work.

Be aware that there may be steel reinforcing in the material you are drilling into, this can potentially destroy your drill bit tip, if the bit starts to bend, stop drilling and reverse it out and check the tip, the sides of the tip should look like the picture of the new tip that @MitchellMc posted above.

You could possibly drill out the reinforcing with a HSS drill bit and some cutting oil, this is very risky and can cause the drill bit to snap in the hole when it contacts the rebar.

Don't ever try to cool a masonry drill bit with water as it is drilling, this is not how they work, they need speed and temperature to cut through the masonry, you can (if you're drilling a large enough hole) end up with steam burns and a wrecked tip at the same time.

[Squeaka]

I 2nd this, the bit itself makes a HUGE difference. I had a set of Craftsman masonry bit S (from Bunnings :D) they were absolute garbage. But i didn't know the until i bought s couple of Kango Bits. the difference was chalk and cheese. Sharper smoother, faster cleaner. More long lasting

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Squeaka. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for adding to the discussion.

There's nothing like purchasing quality tools and equipment. Often the price is a bit restrictive if you want a full range of bits to cover all your drilling needs, but for a particular size and if you are making multiple holes, I'll always spend the extra to get a better quality drill bit.

We look forward to hearing about the projects and plans you have around the home and garden. Please reach out any time you need assistance or have something to share with the community.

Mitchell