How to fill a gap between a shed and concrete wall?

[AdrianW]

Hi all. I need to find something that can fill a gap between a concrete wall and the frame of a shed I am going to be building. I want to be able to screw it into the concrete wall and also the shed. It needs to be waterproof as it will be located in an area that sometimes gets wet. The size I am looking to fill is around 1970mm high by ideally 220-250mm wide. Ideally it would be at least 25mm thick. I was thinking perhaps using a composite deckboard but they don't come wide enough to fill the gap. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated!

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @AdrianW  

I am tring to appreciate what your project goals are.  So you want a shelf  1970mm off the  ground,

A gap of 220-250 is going to be tough to  get cordless drills and drivers to fit into (unless at an angle possible)

 A picture of the space would help too.

First hand I can thing of wet area villaboard cut to size to fit the gap and cut up a sheet to layer it to 25mm thick aproximatly.

Put legs on your shelf to the ground so no need to attach to wall or shed possibly.  use double expansion joint foam( wall side and shed side too )glued onto the edges  to make a seal between shelve wall and shed.  This is largly water proof if the seal is uniform,

Talk to us some  more  so we can help better.

[AdrianW]

Hi, I am installing an off the wall style shed to house a pool pump. Due to piping and a few other reasons I won't be installing the shed directly onto the wall, I need to install the frame about 220mm away from the wall. So I need two panels on the side that can fill in the gap between the shed frame and the wall. So I am looking for some kind of panel to use that ideally is composite or waterproof (ie. not timber) with the dimensions I listed. I would then screw it into the floor, and it would sit between the wall and the edge of the shed. 

[Akanksha]

Thanks for providing those additional details, @AdrianW. Helps our ever-helpful members get a better idea of what you require, enabling them to provide more tailored advice. I'm sure our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will also be happy to assist as soon as possible.

Let me also extend a warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're delighted to have you join our wonderful community.

Akanksha

[Dave-1 · Accepted solution]

Afternoon @AdrianW 

Mmmm Trying to picture what you are after. If I have it right in my mind then how about an L frame you make up then screw/bolt to the concrete wall.

So the Short side of the L frame will be the bit that is attached to the wall, the long bit will cover the rest of the 220mm to the shed.

90 x 45mm outdoor framing mgp10 h3 treated pine 2.4m  verticaly with say 4 studs off at right angles and then you attach 
140 x 19mm 5.7m-specrite merbau joined set length pre oiled decking (Tho there are shorter lengths). and mounted verticaly.

The L shape I am talking about looks like this. The merabau is screwed to the studs verticaly and id put a smaller sized merbau on the short side of the L as well after its bolted to the wall.

Green is the 90*45mm

Pink is the 140mm Merbau (you can get shorter lengths then the 5.7m or Bunnings can chop it to your lengths)

Hopefully the picture in my mindcan be applied to what you want.

The reason it dosnt go to the ground is for the piping you mentioned.

Dave

[AdrianW]

Thanks a lot Dave. Makes sense. It's up high where the piping and cabling is but I could follow a similar approach with the L frame bolted to the ground.

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @AdrianW 

Beautiful, Would love to see the photos of it when you finish!

Dave

[EricL]

Hello @AdrianW 

That is a fantastic suggestion from @Dave-1. Creating a frame behind the composite panels will make it easier to install. I suggest using H3 treated timber to make sure that it is rated for outdoor use. For added protection, I suggest using a panel of the composite decking and placing it on top of the assembly like a cover cap. This will protect the top of the timber and prevent water from sitting on its cut surface.

Since the gap is approximately around 250mm across, you'll need at least 2 Ekodeck panels to cover the gap. The Ekodeck panels can be rip cut, but please make sure to anchor it well to the cutting table to prevent it from bowing.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric   

[AdrianW]

Hi @EricL how would you suggest attaching the ekodeck panels to the frame assembly? Just drilling a hole through and using screws? The area I will be building in is undercover but the concrete slab it sits on can get wet. Would you suggest I install the base of the stud wall assembly off the slab a little to protect any timber from getting wet?

[Noyade]

"Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated!"

I think you did mention above @AdrianW that you don't want wood?

I did use hardwood fence palings to cover a gap between a house corner and a pergola support - and regularly painted with sump oil. It has withstood the elements and age well.

Best part is you can cut to any shape, progressively and easily.

Just a thought. 😉