How to cut straight with an Ozito benchsaw?

[bronte87]

hi, I bought the 800w corded ozito benchsaw/table saw a short while ago. I have replaced the fence as the one it came with kept moving despite the clamps being done up tightly. And have googled ways to glow up your cheap table saw. However I find no matter what I do, when I was using the fence it came with and now using a better quality one, it cuts straight all the way down the blade until it gets to the riving knife, then starts to go south. The riving knife is slightly wider than the blade, so when I’ve set the fence to a straight position, the timber is fine and straight all the way to the riving knife, then it’s like pushing a watermelon through a pinhole. It’s really frustrating. I understand that you’re obviously getting a lesser quality with a cheaper saw, but it’s still supposed to cut straight according to the specifications. Unless I’m just doing something completely wrong. Please help.

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @bronte87. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about the Ozito benchsaw.

I have an older model of this machine, so I am familiar with their operation. As you've mentioned, the more budget-friendly bench saws come with a single locking mechanism for the fence, and if sideways pressure is put on your board whilst feeding, the far end of it, away from the clamp, can flex out slightly. However, it sounds like your clamp was not locking correctly at all, and the fence moved after being set. This is something that would be covered under warranty for replacement as the fence should not move.

The thickest part of the blade is the teeth, which should be cutting the board with a large enough slot for the riving knife to follow through easily. There should be no resistance at all when the board reaches the riving knife. A misaligned fence can cause this issue, so be sure that the aftermarket one you've attached does not create the issue. Set your fence and measure from the front and back of it to the sides of the table to ensure it's locking evenly. The only other reason I can think of that the riving knife could be creating resistance would be if an aftermarket thin kerf blade was installed on the machine and the blade's teeth were created a slot thinner than what's required.

I understand the aftermarket fence was installed to improve the machine, but it's not something the manufacturer would recommend. Given the risk of injury, if a board jambs in the machine whilst cutting due to the issues you've described, I would highly recommend you cease using the machine and return to the store of purchase with it to discuss options and the issue. 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell