How to convert garage into a studio?

[Lynn10]

Hello, im a first time novice builder attempting to convert part of my garage into a studio. The area is 5000 mm x 2200 mm. The gable end is to be opened up with stacker glass door approx 3000mm wide by 2000high. The current cement floor will be the sub floor with a timber floor on top. Id like to know what type of timber to use for the joists, do i need joist supports. How far apart do Timber joists studs need to be, remembering that the floor joists will be supporting the large stacker or sliding window doors. I also have a situation where the shed has gaps along the perimeter of the current cement floor that needs sealing as some parts of the shed won't be opened up. Do need to remove the galvanized gable end wall before i start the floor. Sorry i cant get images to upload Thank you Lynn

[EricL]

Hello @Lynn10

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's fantastic to have you join us, and thank you for sharing your question about converting your garage into a studio.

I'm sorry you're having trouble posting the pictures. Please send them to this address workshop@bunnings.com.au and I'll be more than happy to post the photos for you. In regards to your flooring, It all depends on how you'll be building your flooring frame, the common size for bearers starts at 140 x 45, and larger pieces might be required.

I believe it's important that we see the pictures of your garage so that we'll be able to assess its current condition. We can then make recommendations on how to proceed. 

We look forward to seeing the photos of your garage.

Eric

[Lynn10]

Thank you Eric.

First two photos are of the inside that shows a gap at the bottom that i feel should be sealed to prevent water  getting in. I want to remove Approx 3 meters of  this gable end to be replaced with  sliding door or packer doors and windows. The last two photos is to show the exterior which is higher than the internal floor. Thanks again Lynn

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Lynn10,

Does this concrete slab get damp at all? If so, you might like to look at laying down some type of vapour barrier before installing the timber joists. It also likely wouldn't hurt to use H3 treated timber instead of H2 treated framework, which is resistant to moisture. You could use 90 x 45mm for the floor area, but you should consult the door manufacturer on suitable sub-floor options for their product. You might need to install additional support in this area and the frame for the door. Standard floor joist spacing is 450mm centres.

You'll need to do an excellent job of sealing those gaps around the wall perimeter. Any water that leaks underneath will enter the subfloor, which is why I've recommended H3 treated timber for the joists. You could use Sikaflex 11-FC to fill these gaps, and it will do a reasonable job of inhibiting water ingress. On the outside, it wouldn't be a bad idea to create a formwork and concrete up to the wall sheeting. This edging can have a slanted top to direct water away from the wall.

You might not need to remove the gable end before installing the floor, but you'll need to plan how and when you'll be installing the door. Be mindful that the current wall might be structural and bear the roof's weight. You wouldn't want to remove it without installing sufficient temporary support measures.

This sounds like a fantastic project, and I can't wait to assist you with it.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell