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Hi @Dave-1,
Using pine weatherboards for cladding is cost-effective but comes with downsides. Pine is less durable than fibre-cement, requiring regular maintenance like painting, sealing, and cleaning to prevent issues such as decay and insect damage. Vulnerability to insects, expansion, and contraction, along with the need for frequent inspections, are considerations.
Long-term maintenance needs and durability are the major downsides, and you'd need to be prepared for yearly oiling and to ensure that insect damage doesn't occur as it doesn't have any pesticide treatments.
Mitchell
The James Hardie weatherboards are cement sheeting @mikebarker, so they aren't susceptible to the same issues as timber is. You could use them on the door; just ensure you have adequate hinges for the weight. Instead of two, you might like to put four. When an adequate number of hinges are used, there will be no issue with weight and opening and closing the door.
For windows, you might like to consider the STILLA Garden Shed Accessory Cedar Opening Window or STILLA Painted Shed ACC Additional Opening Window, but there is no reason you can't use a window kit for a home.
The number of TuffBlocks or foundations you need is directly related to the calibre of the timber you use and its span capabilities. Say you used 90 x 45mm, you'd need a support every 1000mm. But, if you went with 140 x 45mm, you could push that to around 1500mm. To have one in each corner for a 3000mm wide shed sounds a bit off. You'd need to be using some excessively large timber to be able to achieve that. 21 for your sized shed sounds about right. The only way to reduce that number is to increase the calibre of your timber.
Mitchell
@MitchellMc Regarding flashing for the corrugated panels. I understand how to use these on the angled sides but on the sides where water will be running off, I can't put flashing on these as the water can't run off, so other than leaving it bare, what options do I have? I've been trying to see examples and it's either bare feeds into a gutter. I'm just hoping for something neater than a bare, sharp edge but maybe I'm being too picky!
And I'm still unsure of the solution to prevent bugs etc getting in the gaps under the corrugation on that side.
Thanks for fielding my endless questions 😅
Hi @mikebarker,
You could use a C channel pop-riveted into the sheeting to cover your exposed edge. That would provide a neat finish.
@Dave-1 has mentioned you can use corrugated foam infill between the sheets and your timber. When the sheets are screwed down, it compresses the foam and fills the gaps.
Mitchell
Hello all! I decided to design the shed myself to account for differences in roofing etc, plus good fun learning some new software.
I think the design is mostly good (But suggestions absolutely welcomed) but I'm still unsure what to do about the gaps that occur with the overhang. It would be fiddly to try and get something in there. I guess I could do away with the overhang, but that'll be handy in keeping rain off the door.
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