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A low-level deck with screening and steps that uses a screw pedestal system as bearers.
I built a deck ay my daughter's unit after finding inspiration on Workshop. My take on building a low-level deck was a little different from other posts because I decided to use a screw pedestal system as the bearers for the joists.
There were a number of reasons, the main being that the concrete paths and brick paving had moved over time and there was a lot of variation in the base height. It would have been a real pain using brackets bolted in the concrete path and achieving a constant level for the joists.
Another is that the pedestal system is very easy to work with and can be screwed up or down to achieve the desired height. I ended up using Buzon DPH-2 along with DPH-KIT5 joist holders. The cost was very reasonable at $5.18 for each pedestal and $1.65 for the joist holders. This pedestal has a height range of 35–53mm, but there are also other sizes to choose from. They are incredibly strong, each having a breaking load of 1460kg.
My deck is 2.1m wide and 2.7m wide so there are three pedestals on the 2.1m joists and four pedestals on the 2.7m joists. Joists are 450mm apart and the decking is Merbau 90mm x 19mm.
I miscalculated the variations in path level and in some cases I needed to raise the pedestals by using a brick paver underneath or Villaboard sandwiched between two layers of damp course.
I created two sets of steps at each end to hide the pedestals and installed Merbau screening to frame the deck. The outer top section is secured to the wall via a 100 x 150 galvanised bracket with a Dynabolt in the wall.
I applied three coats of Intergrain Ultradeck in the colour Natural. This is not a clear finish but has a brown tint to it. Before I applied the water-based oil, I prepared the deck with Diggers Rust and Stain Cleaner, which is oxalic acid and mild bleach. This is a much cheaper option than using a proprietary deck cleaner such as Intergrain Deck Prep – it's basically the same thing. Because Merbau has a high tannin content it is important to scrub the deck with the cleaner to remove excessive tannins which then result in a good finish.
I then installed a second screening panel – sunk a pole in the middle of the panel rather than the fence end so it is nice and secure.
I bought three brown-coloured treated sleepers 200mm x 50mm x 3m from Bunnings and sourced river pebbles from a local landscape supply store to create a series of steps from the front gate to the steps of the deck.
I used a long sleeper embedded in the soil on its end to create a border between the garden bed and the pebbles. Both because it is visually pleasing and will keep the pebbles in and the mulch away from the pebbles.
A low-level deck can pose a range of potential design and installation problems, with particular challenges around ventilation, drainage, termites and rotting. But it doesn't have to be a difficult project once you take the time to understand the basics of how they are put together.
Experienced Bunnings Workshop member Adam Woodhams has created a comprehensive guide to building your own low-level deck which should provide an excellent reference for getting started.
MGusto also shared this low profile deck built at their house to inspire those who don't have much room to work with between the base and the doorstep.
Whether you are building a new deck or rejuvenating an existing one, get inspired by the clever and creative Bunnings Workshop community in our Top 10 most popular deck projects.
Very very impressed... I would imagine that your daughter is happy with having such a capable father and is probably already planning your next project
Amazing effort and outcome. I'm inspired to do this myself. Very similar situation in my backyard - old uneven pavers
Hello @thushar
Let me tag @MGusto to make them aware of your kind words. I'm glad this project has inspired you to give this project a go. Should you have any questions about the project, please let us know. My number one tip is to plan it either on paper or computer before you buy any materials. By having it planned out, you will be able to see all the details that go into building a low-level deck. I also recommend reading this fantastic guide - How to build a low-level deck by @Adam_W.
Here is a link for ideas and inspiration: Inspiring low-level deck builds
We look forward to the start of your decking project.
Eric
Really love all these helpful posts with so much detail. I'm looking at a similar project for my property and I'm struggling to find where to buy the Buzon pedestals and joist holders. Are you guys able to point me in the right direction?
Also with the decking itself, one concern I have is on wet days how slippery can it get? Is there a way to prevent this or I am over worrying?
Thanks!
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @tonyhoang. It's amazing to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about constructing a deck.
Hopefully, @MGusto can assist with your question on the Buzon pedestals and joist hangers. We carry Builder's Edge pedestals and Pryda joist hangers.
Typically decks aren't slippery in the wet. However, if the deck is constantly in the shade and not scrubbed down a couple of times a year, it can develop a slick coating of organic matter. A simple cleaning removes this matter. I wouldn't be overly concerned about this.
We are looking forward to hearing all about your decking project and would encourage you to let us know if you have further questions or would like to share your project with us.
Mitchell
Hi @tonyhoang.
If you go to the website for Pascoe Constructions pasco.net.au you can find contact details for their NSW and VIC locations. I am from Adelaide so they were able to give me a local contact but the pedestals had to be freighted to me from interstate. Hope this helps. Mike
Thanks @MitchellMc and @MGusto for the extremely quick response! Much appreciated.
Hopefully I can post my finished results on here soon.
Looks good..can I I ask how does the Buzon DPH works? Do I need to screw onto the floor? Or just leave it as it? Also the decking does it need to have a gap between the concrete and the deck? Or will need to cover it? Saw from the photo seems to have a gap? Means it prone to dust and dirt goes in it?
Hi @calccom21,
Let me mention @MGusto, so they are alerted to your questions.
The system used here is very similar to our pedestal feet. Some of the feet can be attached to the concrete, but that's typically not required when creating a free-standing deck platform.
Decking must have a gap between it and a concrete substrate. You can see here that @MGusto has elevated the joists and decking above the concrete on the feet. This gap under the decking and frame is essential for airflow and to prevent the early onset of decay due to trapped moisture. It's also important to have gaps between your decking boards. These gaps allow any rain to drain away and not sit on the surface. You will get dust and debris under the decking, but you'll never see under there, and it won't be an issue.
Please let me know if you have further questions.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc - how long does these ordinary pedestal feet lasts? does seem to be cheap especially if you apply it across the decking. Does it stand well and needing it replace it frequently?
Hi @calccom21,
The pedestal feet are resistant to weather and UV damage and should outlive the timber on the deck. I'd expect to see them last for 15 years+.
Mitchell
Hi @calccom21
Regarding the lifespan of the pedestal feet - if you have a look at this link https://www.architectureanddesign.com.au/suppliers/pasco-construction-solutions/buzon-pedestals-supp...
The buzon pedestals have been used in a commercial situation for a deck at a wharf in Jones Bay. I suspect the pedestals Bunnings sell would be of similar quality.
Cheers Mike
Cost and planning wise, this is exactly what I am looking for - small area, low profile and simplified therefore easier to build. However I have a few concerns:
- This plan eliminates the need to put loading from joists to bears and to posts that support the bears as the joists are directly supported by the pedestal feet. Is there a guideline or documentation for designing how many pedestal feet is required for how many joists in which dimensions? (something like this: https://www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-design-a-deck) For example, when you say "My deck is 2.1m wide and 2.7m wide so there are three pedestals on the 2.1m joists and four pedestals on the 2.7m joists." how is this defined?
- I also see lots of comments on Youtube suggesting a deck structure should always be fixed to the ground in case of strong wind as the only force holding the deck down is its own weight. (for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwYbY3LYLv4) which essentially questions the use of things like TuffBlock. Is this a legit concern? Is there any guideline for this?
Also, I see a part of your deck is on top of a paver area. What if the pavers move slightly or sink over time, therefore it wouldn't support the pedestal feet properly? I am asking because the deck I am thinking will be built entirely on top a paver area
@MGusto @EricL @MitchellMc thanks guys
Hi @fedorrrr,
Supports for your deck or any timber that spans are governed by timber span tables. This is the distance timber can span unsupported. When using 90 x 45mm for deck joists it has a continuous span of around 1500mm. However, your deck will become quite bouncy at that distance, so we always recommend no more than 1000mm on supports. You'll end up with a much more solid deck that way.
Span tables are available from timber suppliers. Here's the deck joist span table from our supplier Hyne.
If you are in an area that experiences wind gusts so strong that they could potentially lift and shift a deck, then I'd encourage you to use posts concreted into the ground. For most shelterd areas, having a floating platform deck on pedestal poses no issues at all.
For a deck over pavers it's important to ensure that the ground is compacted adequately. If you have concerns or there are already subsidence issue present I'd recommend you remove the pavers and compact the ground. You can also over engineer the supports and add additional feet over and above what are required for span tables. This will ensure the deck's weight is spread over a larger areas and multiple points.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc for the quick response.
I am planning to use 140x45 or 140x35 joists so that I don't need that many supporting feet.
Your points around wind and pavers all make sense. I haven't seen really strong wind in our area but maybe I will use 2-3 posts in concrete just to stay safe.
Hi @MitchellMc , just wanted to a quick sense check: if I use 140x45 joists, the joist span sheet says the continuous span can be up to 3m. If I put my span to 2.5m, would the deck feel bouncy? Otherwise I will have to add another row of pedestal feet
Love this, great work.
Hi @fedorrrr,
If it's continuous span, as in it's more than just two supports, one at each end, then you can go to 3000mm. If you're at 2500mm that's within guidelines. However, I'd recommend you go with supports in the middle and drop that to 1250mm. It's a bit overkill, but will leave you with a rock solid deck. Even if it means purchasing several more supports, I believe it's worth it.
Mitchell
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