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Sorry it’s taken me longer than expected to get this post up. Back on the Easter long weekend I dedicated my time to a few things around the house, including this laundry reno which is easily my favourite DIY project yet – next up is the kitchen and ensuite 
Out with the old…
To kick things off I obviously started with a design courtesy of Leah (Mrs ProjectPete) and regardless of how simple or difficult it was, it had to be done Time to rip out old boring old stuff.
Once it was all out it was time to get started on repainting the walls and repositioning the powerpoints to a) not interfere with the new wall-to-wall splashback, and b) be hidden under the new wall-to-wall benchtop.
Painting – As we planned to install overhead cabinetry we marked out their position to save time, paint and money on painting unnecessary areas of the wall.
Powerpoints – This was a simple case of marking out where the benchtop will be, channelling the wall to the new position and filling the channel to be painted over.
- Install the back and sides of the centre cabinet to get a level for the benchtop position first.
- Channelling the wall with an angle grinder is super dusty so cover up surrounding areas and vacuum straight away.
- To make repositioning the cables easier and the refilling easier/smoother, use some PVC or flexible gas piping as shown in the pics.
- Refill the bulk of the channel with cement and finish it with a smooth spakfilla, sanding it back to finish flush and smooth with the wall.
During the above steps and continuing after I measured out the new benchtop requirements which included the overall length and the cutouts for the new sink. Following that I sanded and stained the benchtop with a total of 3 coats, sanding after the 1st and 2nd. A 4th and final coat was due once fully installed in the laundry.
Cutting to size – I cut the lengths with my new Bosch Circular Saw from good old Bunnings.
Sink cutout – This was a straight forward job with my Ryobi jigsaw.
Sanding – First pass with the sander is key, get it done with some power. Then it’s just a light hand sand between coats.
The join – I hid this as best I could by putting it right in the middle of the benchtop so the sink would cover most of the join. Given the small amount of space to make the join, and to achieve the strength I needed, I used 12.5mm dowel joins.
Staining/sealing - Ensure every square inch of the wood is stained/sealed, including where you make cuts. This is to prevent the wood warping, especially is a moisture-rich room such as a laundry. Thanks for the prompt to include this @Andy_Mann 
I love woodgrain!
With the benchtop ready for install, it was slotted in and fixed to the brackets before getting started on the subway tile splashback. This video on Workshop from Bunnings was all I needed to install my first splashback.
- Protect the benchtop – the 4th and final coat is done once the splashback is up and the overhead cabinets installed.
- The only thing I remember doing differently to the video was when grouting. Instead of smearing grout all over the tiles, pushing into the gaps then cleaning…I focused by application of grout to the gaps, pushed/smoothed them and had much less clean up to do.
- Get that first row right. As long as it’s straight and level, the rest will flow nicely.
- Cutting tiles – for tiles this small, use an angle grinder and a steady hand to cut to size. Don’t bother with a tile cutter.
With the splashback finished it’s time to install the overhead cabinets then get the sink/plumbing finished off and the doors on the centre cabinet. The last thing to do is fill/sand the join then give the benchtop a final sand and coat.
And in with the new…
Sorry for the crappy lighting/photos but I think you get the idea
I hope at least someone gets something out of this and I’m more than happy to answer more questions about specific stages, just thought this gives a pretty good overview.
Bottom line – have a vision, plan for it, be ready to adapt and just go for it. There were some ‘firsts’ for me in this project and I’m super stoked with how well it all turned out.
Hello @KatieG
To help you out with the dowels, I believe @ProjectPete purchased it at length and cut it down to his needs. I've placed a sketch of how the dowels might have been installed into the benchtop. It is technically straightforward, but the drill points must be spot on to make sure the benchtops line up perfectly. Please make sure to wipe away the excess glue so that it does not seal the benchtop's top layer. This is important especially if you are sealing the timber benchtop.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @mmenzel,
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community.
Let me tag @ProjectPete for you so he is alerted to your questions about the benchtop. Our resident D.I.Y. expert @MitchellMc will also be happy to recommend products for your project.
Looking forward to seeing your own handiwork soon on the site.
Jason
Hi @mmenzel,
@ProjectPete mentions on page two of this discussion that they are Tasmanian Oak project panels. We should be able to Special Order those for you from our supplier Timberbuild. Alternatively, if you were after something in-store, I'd recommend you look at the Hevea or Hardwood Laminated panels.
The coating appears quite dark in the images above. However, most of the photos show the bench in shadow and I don't think this is necessarily an accurate indication of the stain colour. I'm not quite sure if a coloured stain was used at all. I'd imagine it might have been a clear coating like Cabothane. This will darken the timber slightly but not change it to a different shade as a stain would. Tas Oak, Hevea and the hardwood panels already have lovely shades of colour and typically only need a clear coating to enhance their natural characteristics.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi Meagan (@mmenzel),
@ProjectPete posted this project some time ago. Currently, we don't stock Tasmanian Oak panels. I presume Pete might have picked them up in-store at the time, though he could have Special Ordered.
If you speak with a team member at your local store's Special Orders counter, they can contact a supplier in your area and get prices on the panels for you.
Mitchell
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @KelseyS. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about the wonderful project.
On page two of this discussion, @ProjectPete mentions that he used Tasmanian Oak Project Panels from Bunnings. They are a lovely finish and really add some warmth to the project.
Do you have your own reno in the works? If so, please feel free to start a discussion if you need any assistance, as our knowledgeable members would all be keen to provide advice.
Mitchell
