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I just moved into a place about 20 years old. The two showers both need regrouting. I can see gaps between the grout and tiles, and missing grout.
I have removed grout with a grout hand saw before, and found the grout came up easily. However the grout in these showers are rock hard and wouldn't budge. What can I use to remove the grout?
The existing grout is lower than the tiles. Would it be ok to apply epoxy grout over the top of old grout?
I also need to remove old silicone. I've used selleys silicone remover and found it iineffective. Any other suggestions would be most welcome.
Thank you!
Hi @TH
The grout probably is epoxy grout. in place.
You can use a vibrating multi tool and half round blade would be good for grout removal. If the grout is solid thats fine just scuff it to give new grout some thing to bond to.
You want the silicon shower screen bead replaced ? The multi tool can help there too , some use a sharp scraper or knife, as well in the corners.
If you can steam clean the grout to kill off mold spores or at the least exit mold type cleaner then wash that off too.
Have fun
Hello @TH
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's wonderful to have yo join us, and thanks for sharing your question about repairing your grout.
Just to give you an idea of the tools @Jewelleryrescue is referring to here is a link to the multitool. The blade used used for grout removal is the Diablo 70mm Multi Function Tool Ultimate Grout And Mortar Blade. This is the tool to remove the silicone CornerTape Professional Silicon Remover.
Once you've successfully removed the grout I suggest using Dunlop 1.5kg Flexible Coloured Grout - White. In order to prolong the life of the grout I suggest using Betta TileCare 500ml Tile And Grout Sealer With Wheel Applicator. This seals off the grout and prevents water from soaking into it.
Here are some handy step-by-step guides:
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thank you very much for your detailed response. Much appreciated!
Looks like I need to invest in a multi tool.
I'm going to apply epoxy grout. I have done it once and found it quite difficult as it sets so quickly. I know I have to use small amounts and work fast, so I'm thinking of just doing the shower floor. Any tips for using epoxy grout would be greatly appreciated.
There is no access to the area below the showers to check for leakage. After grouting, I'm thinking of duct taping the drain and filling up the shower with water to the top of the hob/frame to check for leakage. Is this how you would do it?
Thanks for your help!
Hi @TH,
Can I ask why you are keen on using epoxy grout? Typically, it's only used in some fairly specific circumstances and would normally be avoided unless it is necessary. You would have a much easier time applying standard grout and then sealing it to prevent staining, which will give you a similar result.
The only real advice I would have for you with the epoxy is to work within the manufacturer's guidelines, at the appropriate temperature, and do small sections at a time.
Where are you looking for this leakage? Are you suspect it's through the hob or that the membrane under the tiles is compromised?
Mitchell
Hi @TH
Yes I think @MitchellMc is right here why put yourself through epoxy grout fast setting.
Regular grout works well but I do use a grout additive specially outdoors to improve the grouts properties.
$20.67
Hi @Jewelleryrescue, @MitchellMc,
Thank you for your response. I appreciate it!
I want to use epoxy grout because of a poor experience with cement based grout.
I had a shower with alot of small tiles and narrow, shallow spaces between them. I didn't realise the grout had worn away until water leaked through the hob and lifted some tiles (on the hob) and left stain marks outside. I had it professionally resealed but grout started falling out in some places soon after. The tradie came back to rectify but it happened again, so I decided to DIY with premixed grout. It was fine for some time, but didn't last. The shower screen was mounted in the middle of the hob rather than flush with the inside of the shower (the correct way I've read), so grout was wearing away where the screen meets the hob (But also elsewhere!). Long story short, it was painful to constantly check the grout is still intact, frustrating to do frequent regrouting, plus worry about leakages and where the leak is coming from (would lifted tiles damage the waterproof membrane, by the way?)
The current shower also has the shower screen mounted in the middle of the hob, hence my interest in epoxy grout. Apparently it's really strong and waterproof. I would also seal the shower for peace of mind.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hello @TH
The only epoxy grout I'm currently aware of is the Dunlop 3.25kg Slate Grey Easy Clean Epoxy Grout Kit. It resists stains and chemicals, It's also able to fill a gap as large as 15mm. It is easy to use and clean during application and easy to maintain. It contains Grout Shield to resist the growth of mould & bacteria to keep surfaces looking better for longer. When combined with a grout and tile sealer, you should have superior protection inside your shower.
Please remember to use personal protection such as gloves and goggles, when working on your project.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @TH
I hear you when you say the regular grout failed and worrying about continous leaks I too would find that situation very irritating too/
So what is going on I ask? 1 Evidence of Grout failing, 2 tiles popping off.3 water leaks This sounds like the tile glue having failed with a possible water layer under the tiles interfering with regrouting efforts , Any tile movement will trash the new grout is possibly where you are at.
So do you feel the tiles are solid? And or do they sound drummy? And leaks out the side of the hob?
Option 1 Well yes epoxy grout will glue them into place from the top down for a longer period of time.
Option2 if the tiles are really drummy is ideally they need care full lifting and re gluing .
This brings the membrane into question like you rightly asked. If it is damaged in side the hob base and sides region yes it will need to be replaced and that could explain any mystery leaks you have, But just that hob area. Is all I would do.
I have repaired leak points in ponds with 500mm of water pressure where menbraines fail normally around pvc pipe intrusions it just takes extra measures to repair, inside a hob is much easyier.
You @TH meantion grout going up and sealing the hob to the screen. Normally that job is best reserved for silicone as it is more elastic because that screen panel will flex if touched and it will crack away from grout easialy creating a leak in fact the grout may now funnel the water out wards/
So look at the hob screen situation and reassess for your needs.
Hang in there
Thanks Eric. That's the one I used. 🙂
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