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Hi @squeakysim,
You'll find batten details for Villaboard in the installation guide. Their minimum thickness must be not less than 38mm. So, that would allow you to use either 70 x 45mm or 90 x 45mm.
Fixings for attaching the Villaboard to the battens would be 30mm x 2.8mm Galvanised FC Nails.
Please let me know if you have further questions.
Mitchell
Hi again @squeakysim,
You'll essentially be building a stud wall in front of the brick rather than attaching battens to the wall directly. So the bottom plate gets attached to the ground and the top plate to the timber structure above, the vertical studs are fixed between the two with timber screws.
Here's a helpful guide: How to build a stud wall.
Mitchell
Hi @squeakysim
Looking at the photo you posted earlier in the post, it appears that you have a concrete floor. Please let me know if I am looking at this incorrectly, the ceiling does not have a cover on it. Technically your wish to run the water pipes through the battens will still be possible and the timber base plate can be anchored to the concrete floor. As for the ceiling the top section of the stud wall will need to be anchored to the brick wall. This will still allow you to build the stud wall in the traditional manner.
However, if you are hanging a vanity onto the stud wall then it would be prudent to anchor those timber pieces to the brick wall where the vanity will be screwed into. Adding noggins is also a good idea as this will allow you to attach more traditional screw fixings to the wall.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thanks. Sorry if i've confused things, but I'm not the OP! I've piggy backed on this thread as it was dealing with the same topic I was looking for help with.
Below is the space I'm working with! As mentioned before, the floorboards have now been taken up. The wall on the left is going to be built out 90mm and the vanity attached, the far wall is also going to be built out but only half height and the same 90mm depth. The question still remains for where I need to fix to the wall, what are the best fixings and how deep should they go into the brick work? Thanks
Hi @squeakysim
My apologies for the miscommunication. Early in the discussion Jacob suggested using Ramset masonry screws, I suggest looking at the Ramset 12 x 150mm Galvanised AnkaScrew Masonry Anchor - 20 Pack. I would not advise going lower than 130mm in length. When attaching 90x45mm timber on its tall edge (90mm vertical) to a 100mm thick masonry wall (for example), the general rule of thumb for masonry screws (like Dynabolts or concrete screws) is at least 40 to 50mm of embedment into solid masonry, but not so long that it risks blowing out the back of the wall or compromising its structural integrity.
My best advice is to drill pilot holes both in the timber and the masonry wall to avoid cracking or weakening the wall. I still suggest adding extra support screws to the area where the vanity will be hung and adding noggins to the studs you'll be installing.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @squeakysim
The most common way of fixing a parallel timber stud wall or any other internal wall for that matter, is through the top and bottom plates into joists with additional fixing points tied to the wall for additional strength depending on wall height and what additional loads may be fixed to the front of it once completed. Top and bottom plate fastening is usually done with a railgun. Otherwise 14ga 75mm or greater bugel/ batten screws can be used.
Both the left and rear walls would be fixed directly on top of the floorboards matching the spacings of the joists. You would drill pilot holes through the 45mm bottom plates and then drive 100mm batten screws to fasten. Basically the same again for the left hand wall top plate. The cornice needs to be removed, then the fastening points need to match the ceiling joists. If they are running the wrong way, then you will need to get into the ceiling space and install noggins to accomodate the fixing points. This video shows the process.
For added strength and stability you can fix right-angled brackets to the studs with screws and masonry screws back to the concrete wall. Or fix short off-cut timber blocks to the wall against studs to save the expense of the brackets. This is also how you would secure the top of the rear wall frame.
Some additional supporting photos below.
Regards Nailbag
You'd likely need to pre-drill and screw through it @squeakysim.
It's always difficult working around trades. It might be worth asking the plumber whether constructing the frame will cause them any issues and what they'd prefer you to do.
Mitchell
