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We had a small bathroom in a narrow short hall, and after removing the original 1950s doorframe were left with a doorway wider than the wall space, so a conventional single barn door wouldn’t work. Quotes to place two custom doors were exorbitant, so we ordered the hardware and got to making the doors ourselves using up my hoarded pile of rescued aged timbers.
Materials
Tools
Double barn door kit - I found a double barn door option by accident, and later found a similar option in the Bunnings door hardware aisle, super straightforward Black double barn door kit
Old hardwood timber
Steps
Step 1
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Step one was doing the math on exactly how wide the doors would need to be to give perfect coverage while still being able to slide completely open in the narrow wall space available, and making sure the rail piece was going to do the job.
Step 2
2/10Step two was attaching the rail. Because I planned to use hardwood timber I expected it would be quite weighty, so I used an additional piece of architrave timber and attached securely to the studs. I also had to do this as the attachment points on the rail didn’t line up with the studs and was not going to attach only to the drywall.
Step 3
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Next I had to find and sort all the odd pieces of timber. I didn’t want to waste the wood, so looked for pieces I could use either whole or cut 2-3 pieces from. I landed on the mixed lengths as an excuse to not have any waste, and was happy with lengths anywhere between the min/max door widths. Once cut to size I then drafted the layout for an even mix of widths lengths and depths.
Step 4
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Once I’d sorted all the lengths to satisfaction I had to individually sand down each piece. I had started with 40 grit sandpaper using a belt sander at high speed to take all the old wood off. After the timber for the first door was completed I was a little concerned I was losing the character of the wood. I started using the 80 grit which took off less while still removing roughest sections, and ultimately used the 120 to polish the front and smooth down the rough parts on the back of the pieces.
Step 5
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Step five was attaching the timber. At the last second I went with a straight edge on one side and overlapping on the other- left justified instead of centred. The order of the timber was meticulous with several iterations to give the balance I was after.
I used two long lengths likewise polished smooth to retain character and then a single nail using the finishing gun for an invisible finish. After lining up the top board level, each board was pushed tight to the board above while pressing the nail gun to prevent any gaps. The nails were a little long- I could’ve checked if shorter nails were available- so I tapped any protruding nails over tight. I was going for a floating board look and was very happy with the result. If it hadn’t worked (too heavy/ privacy issues, I was going to use as bridges over landscape water features).
Step 6
6/10Once both doors were built I had to use drill bits various to attach the hardware. Checking I had the 4 drill bits necessary for the hardware would’ve helped finish faster. I used the cordless chuckless Ryobi drill here which is fast to change out bits and helpfully mobile.
I indented the rear hole a little further as the timber plus frame was a little wide for the hardware bits.
Step 7
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Before the hardware was attached I played around with the final look and door order, as I had to choose which door would be on the outside and how the timber overhang pieces would look. For privacy we went with leading door snug on the hallway entrance side, and for appearance I did outside justified for a clean edge which I ended up liking most (but still liked the overhanging side giving texture).
Step 8
8/10Then I hung each door carefully making sure I hadn’t underestimated the holding power of my screws…
Step 9
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Second to last step was a roller on the outer door so it can run across the inner door without needing to manually lift away from the inner door. I’m choosing not to drill runners into the floor as I don’t want to damage the original hardwood floor.
Step 10
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Final step was running a skirting board along the bottom wall and attaching a roller to the leading door. Barn doors will fall inwards so using a lower roller wheel keeps the door vertical and rolling smoothly across the doorway. I’ll find and polish a suitable piece of reclaimed hardwood to fit the doorstep. I’m also considering building a box over the rail and an architrave frame the leading door will tuck into, and a matching piece on the rear edge of the second door, for better sound and climate control.
Hello @TheMilly
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your beautiful barn door project.
The mixed timber really gives it such a nice rustic look. Having it on sliding rails I think makes it much more convenient and you don't have to worry about the doors hitting the wall unlike swinging doors.
Again, thank you for sharing such a wonderful project.
Eric
