How to tile over laminate planks?

[Nonica2605]

Hi Bunnings community! 
I have existing laminate planks all over my living room, I wanted to tile over them in the area surrounding the fireplace. The planks are very straight and very solidly in place. And the area I wanted to tile is only 3-4 sq Mtrs. Can I put cement board using adhesive and screws onto the laminate and then tile over that? Also do I need special tiles as these are going by the fire place? 

 

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @Nonica2605 

No need for cement sheeting .   Glue tiles direct to timber laminate I would try waterproof glue and grout so you can mop  tile floor and timber laminate under not  getting wet.  A simple water proof membrain will seal timber too.  This is not a   key  wet area so no rules apply fire rules may apply.

Merry  xmas too you.  Your fire is  sitting on a cement hearth with  no doubt heat proof tiles. and heat prove does matter.  I had a neighbour's  daughter 19years start a little camp fire  on outdoor tiles directly and they shattered possible as their might have being water under them.  I am refering to the tiles immediatly around the firebox. So ask about the tiles you are buying as a heads up. 

Basically I think any tile  can take the heat from dropped coals out of the fire box where the timber laminate flooring is now But will lighter colours get stains?  You could stain seal the tiles  later as a backup but in time they will get marks.

To answer you question. I think you can use basic tile glue on you floor is Flat and Straight consider using 6to 8mm notch (to reduce tiles height)  There is no need to rip  up a perfectly good floor surface just to  lay a cement board as it is not a  wet area.  No  need to add cement board on top of timber laminate.

If you wished villaboard on top of timber laminate there is no harm done i  would still water proof it so tiles can be  Mopped.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Nonica2605,

I'm a little more dubious about laying tiles over a floating floor than @Jewelleryrescue, and if you're going to do so, I'd recommend the sheeting fixed into the subfloor. The reason being is tiles and grout are rigid, and the floating floor is not. By its very nature, it floats upon the floor and expands and contracts with temperature changes. Even if you used a flexible glue over the laminate (I'm not sure if this would even stick to it), your grout lines would surely crack if you were to experience any movement of the substrate. I can't imagine any glue manufacturers would recommend their product over a floating laminate floor.

Can I ask why you wouldn't pull the laminate flooring up? It's likely not adhered to anything and would be a 30min job to expose the subfloor and glue your tiles directly onto that. That would save a lot of guesswork and a potentially failed job.

As mentioned by @Jewelleryrescue, if your hob is the correct size and installed as per code, then there is no need to use fire-resistant flooring outside that area.

Mitchell

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @Nonica2605 

I think @MitchellMc  is more correct in taking up laminate and its substrate the movement in the laminate maybe be a source for future cracking between the tiles given the radient heat from the fire will cause.  (We had a  fire place we kept burning (slow burner) for all of winter and even the brick chimmney expanded and  contracted for those months by 5mm)  Depending whats under the  laminate may give you  room to lay cement board that will expand  with simular characterists as tiles if it is floor boards not concrete.  This might be a good idea to put a 5mm  tile gap around hob to allow  tile expansion typically you could put a length of quad over 5mm gap. 

[Nonica2605]

Yeah I think that makes sense! I wanted to put it over the floating laminate floors, as I have put other floating timber floors on top of the laminate, next ti the area that I wanted to tile, is it possible for me to screw and glue a cement board onto the laminate and then tile over that? 

[Nonica2605]

Hi @MitchellMc and @Jewelleryrescue , do either of you If I can glue and screw a cement board directly over the laminate planks? I have already started laying down new engineered wood flooring in other parts of the living room so it will be very difficult to pull it the laminate now. Is there anything I can put over the laminate planks to make the tiles stay? 

[MitchellMc]

Screwing cement sheeting over laminate flooring and then tiling would certainly not be recommended by any manufacturers that I know of @Nonica2605. The laminate planks are a non-rigid subfloor; you can't lay a rigid subfloor (tiles) over them without experiencing some issues. Unless there is some reason why you can't pull up the existing laminate flooring, I wouldn't even entertain the idea.

Mitchell

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @Nonica2605  and @MitchellMc 

Nonica2605  I am guessing you want a absolute stand out featured tile area , an island of tiles between your engineered  floor areas. And I notice the chairs positioned there at a cosy position around the fire place. Looks very nice and  better if we do this right first time.

I can see a small lip from your enginered tiles down to the current timber laminate floor at a rough guess 8mm drop.  I would like you to consider altering materials in the tiled area to give the tiles  a height matching the engineered floor. I am assuming you prefer level floors ideally for  now.  Currently  A small trip point  built into in your home can be annoying and maybe a little dangerous if  a fire is hot.  Or would you like to build it up 100mm  like a featured exotic fire platform level could be a nice defined space in your home for your  comfy  chairs.  Some times a defined step makes it safer.   I have a 100mm platform  I put my electric piano stool on like a mini band stand to play it is a defined step  so safe to use where it is more visable reminder as the little edges slip out of mind.

I mention  the 100mm idea to  as a remote possibility

Level  flooring  goals.

If you where to put in cement sheeting down directly on the  timber laminate it would have to be at least 19mm thick as a minimum for it to work and support tiles.  ( a thinner 6 mm cement sheet may  flex and fail on top of laminates as @MitchellMc  is right to say so )19mm  cement board will support your tiles across open floor joists flexable grout needed.

 BUT   how  proud will you flooring be now?

Eg 19mm cement sheet + 4to 6 mm glue + tile height 6mm to 10 mm (taking the middle estimates ) Thats

32 mm minus the  8mm i think i see on the far edge of the engineered floor thats a floor sitting 24 mm proud as an estimate. I have stubbed my toes on a lot less as others might one day.

So @Nonica2605  think about your desired outcome for your tiled section you want it flat we will need to remove old laminate planks and its flat board its sitting on.  Thats an estimate off lowering the floor 6mm Laminates +  base board 6mm possible 1 - 2 mm foam underly)  Total lowering of estimated 14mm. Whats under your laminate as the original floor? Now you 19mm cement sheet can sit lower lowering your total tile floor height. 

Sorry @Nonica2605  I hope I am not  adding complications to your thinking I know how that can be for me a big head ache.  If i layed  flooring down I would hate to rip it up again but tiles need a solid base as to not crack.

So where to go from here well if your original flooring is cement ( is  zero flex great) just added cement board  too ajdust tile final height.  If your original flooring is timber  you will need a minimum of 19mm cement fibre sheeting to protect tiles from movement. your  can adjust tile height with glue thickness with in certain ranges.  Or use 19mm on the laminates but the floor may flex to much causing tile cracks.

[Nonica2605]

Thank you @Jewelleryrescue and @MitchellMc i guess my best option would be to pull out the laminate and see what’s inside and then decide my next course of action! 

thank you so much for you wonderful suggestions, I’ll try pulling out the laminate tomorrow and keep you guys posted 

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @Nonica2605  and @MitchellMc 

Just start at one corner spot near the door frame lifting if you have a large flat bladed screw driver  or a chisel.  Dont  lift it out fully yet  just up so you can peek under in case you change you mind.

Just enough to see what you dealing with.    Please  cover your engineered floor with a cloth so its not scratched if you  use a a large screw driver or chisel put a 30-40mm timber or any thing solid  on top of engineered floor on top of protective cloth to use as lever point to help you lift flooring layer in a controlled manner.

Thank you most kindly for considering a better solution.  Our goal is to try avoid project pit falls for you.