How to paint 80s aluminium doors?

[KingStreetReno]

We recently completed phase 1 of our renovation and had most of our house professionally painted.

The rooms look completely new apart from the ugly aluminium doors that will not be replaced until phase 2 of the renovation in 18mths - 2yrs.

Does anyone have experience painting these?

[approachmhn]

Hi @MitchellMc,

   Thanks very much for the clarification.

Now I can go ahead with confidence.

Hope I can complete all the windows by end of next week.

Thanks,

Mohan

[Robynkaye]

Hi MitchellMc!  I have a house full of Primrose Yellow (uuggghhh!)  sliding aluminium windows and doors…  I want to paint them white,  but I see that the doors have 5mm wide, stuck on, furry weather strips (and black rubber ones too)…. if I spray over these, won’t they get hard, and impede the closing of the door?  Will spraying the channels make the windows hard to close?  Hope you can advise… cheers!Base channel-black is furry

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Robynkaye. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about painting door frames.
 

I'd suggest trying to remove them first, and if that doesn't appear possible, cover them before painting. These trim guides are handy for that. Slot the guide up against the sealing strips and paint on the opposite side. Move the trim guide along as you paint. It's similar to using the trim guide to push down your carpet when painting skirting boards.

Depending on how tight the track is at the moment, adding a paint layer could make the door harder to close. However, I think you'll find that the door will scrape the new paint off the track if it's impeded. Spraying will be the best option as you'll be applying far less paint thickness than if you were brushing it on.

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Mitchell
 

[approachmhn]

 

@MitchellMc,

I did paint bathroom and toilet sliding aluminium windows last November from brown to black windows with dulux spray paints as suggested. 
My idea was to monitor few months and see how it goes with sliding areas.

I am extremely happy as I don’t see a single scratch in almost 6 months except for some wear in the area where wheel moves on track which was expected.

all I did was remove the sliding window and paint with 1 coat primer and 3 coats paint in thin layers over 2 days. Put back the sliding window after 5 days.

I didn’t paint flyscreen as I am planning to replace with new black ones.

Thanks for the help.

Now I will go ahead with all the windows and doors.

 

[MitchellMc]

Great results, @approachmhn and many thanks for coming back to us with pictures. It really helps our other members envisage what can be achieved.

I look forward to hearing more after you paint all the windows and doors.

Mitchell

[mich1972]

@EricL  Thank you for getting me onto this story !!!!! I can read through it now 😄

[ezzie]

Mitch! Again you prove a guru. Thank you a 1000 times for your help with my floors (there's a saga!), but now I'm painting my powdercoated frames and I am getting nowhere with advice! Each time I call Dulux/visit Bunnings I get different advice - I settled on what was on Dulux's 'painting powdercoated windows' instructional video (metal etch primer and Aqua enamel) but I kept coming back to there being no indication that it was actually meant for powdercoated finishes. Doing a little googling, I find your wise words, which goes against ALL the 'official' advice I've received, but this makes sense! 

Also, the Dulux Metalshield® RFU Etch Primer is so thick and gluggy. As the etch primer is in the Metalshield range, do you mean the Metalshiel Epoxy Enamel, or something else? 
Also, tips for getting Metalshield Etch Primer off a new stone benchtop    ?

[MitchellMc]

Hi @ezzie,

Interesting conversation with Dulux. Due to the difficulties in adhesion to powder-coated surfaces, they are recommending the Dulux Metalshield® RFU Etch Primer. I did question that powder-coated surfaces are not listed as a surface it's suitable for, but they've confirmed it's the correct product. They recommend stirring it for at least five minutes using an upward motion to drag the contents from the bottom of the can to the top. 

You could use Aquanamel as the topcoat or the epoxy enamel spray.

Acetone is used for cleanup, but you'd need to be exceptionally careful that it doesn't damage your benchtop. Perhaps try a test section in and inconspicuous location to ensure it doesn't damage it.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[ezzie]

Some really don't understand their products other than reading the notes. A lady I spoke to there recommended I definately ignore their video and instead use 'Dulux Maximum Strength Adhesion Primer' - this is only available at the Dulux Trade Centres.  The RFU Etch is solvent clean-up and I was a bit concerned about putting the water-based Aquaenamel on top of it. I'm wondering if the Zinsser White Extreme Adhestion Primer might be better...especially as it's not flipping green like the Metalshield Etch (I'm painting my windows/doors in white). 
Acetone cleaned up the stain on the stone benchtop perfectly!

[MitchellMc]

I hear you @ezzie! Sometimes, there is more than one way to paint a window trim. I've actually spoken to a consultant and a technical advisor to double-check the information, and they've both referenced Dulux literature and have recommended the etch primer. 

The adhesion primers from Dulux and Zinsser would likely work, but I think you'll find it still says to take the sheen off any gloss paint by lightly scuffing with sandpaper. The etch primer would probably provide a more longlasting coating.

A bit of confusion might lie in whether powder coating comes under a "pre-painted surface". I think generically, we'd call colour on the frame paint, but technically, this is a coating, not paint. 

Mitchell