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I am attempting to build a custom office/office desk from the 32mm thick custom Bunnings kitchen benchtop range. I'm going to ask to get the Bunnings team to cut the benchtops into what ever size/shapes required to ease fitment and joinery.
The desk will be supported by multiple overrated 90-degree brackets screwed to wall studs and installed with a laser level.
I want to install acoustic panelling on the walls similar to (Prempanel 2700 x 600 x 21mm Black Oak Timber Acoustic Panel)
I want to ideally use the gaps between slats to run cables to keep it cable managed and avoid drilling port holes for cables., but this presents a problem, or at least a choice. I either cut the acoustic panels into two pieces and install to the wall leaving a 32mm gap for the desk meaning the desk will be flush with the wall and will look counter-sunk into the acoustic panels (good) but leaving no room for cables to go down the back.
or,
I have the desk made to the dimensions of the wall 'with' the panels already installed, meaning the desk will be flush to the panels, but the desk will then be 21mm away from the wall, all be it still supported by the brackets. While it means I could run cables anywhere, Ibut 'm not 100% sold on how it may look, I'm also concerned about weight distribution on the brackets. Is this a terrible idea or present a structural support issue because the edge of the desk/
I've calculated the weight of the desk and calculated what my walls can support and I'm well within limits.
Or maybe i simply ask the team to notch some channels?
I hope this makes sense, how would everyone else go about this problem?"
Afternoon @daley85
How about using different brackets?
Carinya 380 x 380 x 40 x 6mm Heavy Duty Angle Bracket - Black
For the size issue you could use washers over the holes with a thiner but high tensil screw.
or
Having a look at your plans on the wall 
Good way to visulise it I must say. How about a double rail just under the front of the bench to stop any flexing. Fixed to both left and right side walls? By double rail I mean two lots of 70 *35mm on its side joined. You could add 30mm to the overall height to help accomodate the leg room underneath the desk. That way the brackets could be smaller as the front rail will carry some of the benches weight.
Dave
Hi @daley85
That is an excellent suggestion coming from @Dave-1 in regards to an alternative to the angle brackets. Using the 70x35's is also a viable option as extra support for your benchtop. My added suggestion is to drill pilot holes into your studs to prevent splitting the timber, especially if you 'll be using larger screws.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @daley85
"I've calculated the weight of the desk"
What did you calculate the weight to be?
Regards your aluminium brackets (or any brackets you use) could you drill screw holes whatever diameter and wherever you want - then epoxy/bog/paint over the holes you don't want?
The room is 3 metres long below the windowed wall?
Thinking along the lines of @Dave-1 and @EricL above (I think) - would a 'ladder' like structure screwed to the three walls support the desk?
No brackets.
Just pre-beer thoughts.
Cheers.
(EDIT - sorry @EricL - I missed your post above.)
Using the Bunnings Think Timber 3600 x 600 x 32mm Modular Benchtop - Sapele - as known dimentions and weight of 55kg.
I calculated (with help) just the length of the longest wall, as it will also be supported by the adjoining walls as a C-shape, but this one takes the majority of the load.
I did do this originally for the total volume of the complete desk, and ran calcs for the number of available studs, and its well within rated support.
Hi @daley85,
Benchtop joiners and PVA glue are used for your corner joins. You could have a professional cut and join at a mitre with dominos.
The brackets mentioned by @Dave-1 are heavy-duty and 6mm thick. However, they could flex if weight is placed on the front edge of the deck. Stayed brackets are always best to prevent this, but they pose the issue of the stay being in the way.
Mitchell
I messed this up, this one is correct below. the wall is 3680mm long, not 2480 as I posted earlier.
Morning @daley85
The mathematics you have mention have left me standing there scratching my head I understand them but think its an involved way to sort out a bench.
The benches/desks I have stood on while working have all "flexed" a little, especially the longer sized ones with no middle support. Thats why I have suggested heavy duty brackets plus the extra support bar acxcross the width.
In the timber yard of your local bunnings you will find timber sleepers down the back usually. if you are lucky you can chock one up with two pieces of timber atthe most extreme ends of a 3m length, then gently stand on it. This is what I am worried about the bench and your calculations. Someone like "me" will come along and either half sit or stand to fix something on the wall and the 100kgs of "me" plus the tabletop itself will all be focussed in on one point. I was told dont let people stand on top of a 20mm ceaserstone bench for the same reason, voids the cracking warranty.
Dave
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