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Hello Bunnings DIY Community!
I have recently become rather stumped in my desk building project and was hoping that someone within the community could help in providing an answer to my dilema. I would like to know the A-Grade Standard / Correct way to attach these Taskmaster 700x10mm Hairpin Steel Table Legs to my Specrite 2200x600x26mm Hevea Multi Use Panel (Pics Below).
Besides from the obvious of just screwing a 12Gx25mm Galvanised Hex Head Timber Screws through the leg flange holes and into the panel, is there a better / preferred way? It just seems a shame to make a nice varnished desk and then ruin the aesthetics with some Gal Screws. Are screws even the way to go, or should the legs be bolted to the panel with some Taskmaster Insert Nuts?
Any help is most greatly appreciated.
Kind regards,
Sam.
Hello @SamHall welcome to the Workshop Community, what design did you have in mind?
You could use wood screws from the under side and mount the legs that way but structurally I wouldn't do that as your panel is made from bonded/glued wood pieces, alternatively a wood ladder frame underneath would be a more robust solution.
To illustrate what I mean below is a conventional wooden table design, negate the wooden legs and instead have 4 full sized aprons whereby a triangular wooden piece would fit to the inner corner and provide an alternative location to screw your legs into, additionally the apron would obscure the screws aesthetically.
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @SamHall. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about attaching table legs.
I use the Otter 10 x 25mm Black Coated Hinge Screws when attaching those legs to panels. Being black, they're in keeping with the aesthetic, and their countersunk head ends up relatively flush with the bracket. I also pre-drill with a 2mm drill bit.
As @DIYGnome mentioned, 2200mm is quite a long distance to span for any table, and you'd likely see significant bowing over that length. I suggest creating a frame out of Porta 42 x 42mm 1.8m DAR Square General Purpose Pine for the underside and attaching the legs to it. Alternatively, you could look at putting a mid-leg centrally at the rear.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Thanks @DIYGnome, your time and your response is very much appreciated. I toyed with the idea of building a frame in the early stages of my initial planning, and its safe to say that you have convinced me! Thank you again, I'll be sure to submit a pic of the desk once complete.
Cheers,
Sam.
Thanks @MitchellMc, your response is very much appreciated. I'll actually be cutting the 2200 workpiece to around 1800, however, still want to incorporate a frame like yourself and @DIYGnome have suggested for durability.
I'll submit a pic once the project is completed. Thank you very much again for your help!
Cheers,
Sam.
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