What timber to use outdoor furniture?

[RonJ]

I’m thinking about making some outdoor furniture. Ie a table and 2 bench seats. I thought about using treated pine but was worried about the safety of that and then considered merbau decking for the bench and table tops but was wondering if I should use hardwood for the legs. I know I could use merbau as well but I am not a massive fan of the glued timber and can’t seem to find solid merbau. Then if I use hardwood it will never match the prestained merbau? So does that mean either I use the glued merbau or use hardwood for the whole project. In which case what timber would be good for the table top and legs? 

[Nailbag]

Hi @RonJ 

I would have to agree with @Dave-1 that right now the finish is looking pretty awesome. I love the almost white-wash beach look. But of course it has to be the finish you're after.

Due to the deep grooves within the timber, using any type of "orbital" sander regardless of how course the grit is will be countless hours of work. And the chances are this will overheat the sander and burn it out. A belt sander will be far more effective, but don't buy one because the chances of using it again is near nil. A planer will remove the grooves within a few minutes of multiple passes. Course to fine will ensure there is little left to finish off with a sander. Whereas a thicknesser will have it like raw new in about 5min. But again you will never use bit again.

The best most versatile sander is a Random Orbital Sander. It's both aggressive in removing stock very rapidly to producing a very fine finish. With 30yrs + in the power tool industry, If I could only buy one sander this is it.

If your intention is to stain you will need to go back to raw timber. If it's going to be painted then that level of finish is up to you.

Nailbag

[RonJ]

Thanks for the feedback @Nailbag . I’m hoping to do a bit more of a tidy up and leave it with the look it has. Any suggestions for a suitable finishing treatment.. assume it can’t be an oil?

[Dave-1]

Morning @RonJ 

Unless you remove all the paint and I mean all, you will end up with issues I would think, oil wont soak into the paint and could even make the left over paint curl or dissolve. It will end up being a messy clean up and look a little sporodic I would say.

Dave

[RonJ]

Thanks @Dave-1 its a major job to remove all the paint without milling or planning of some type as it goes in quite a few mm in places.

was hoping I could coat it with something to keep the look? Not sure if @Nailbag and @EricL or yourself may have some easyish options.

thanks to all for your advice 

[Nailbag]

Yes @RonJ a good quality water-based oil would be perfect if your happy with an enriched clear coating.

This is what I use and highly recommend.

Nailbag

[EricL]

Hi @RonJ 

If you 've not started on the next piece, I suggest trying this method. Once you've applied the paint stripper, I suggest covering the top with glad wrap or cling film. This will trap the paint stripper and prevent it from evaporating. It will then concentrate on the surface of the timber, and you'll be surprised how easy the paint will come off. Just keep in mind that sanding will still be necessary. In regards to the sealer, I agree with @Nailbag's choice of furniture sealer.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric