Resurfacing ideas wanted for concrete path and stairs

[synta]

Hi all,

I have concrete path/stairs that need to be resurfaced and looking for alternate to paint or tiles (though may end up tiles if cannot find anything else suitable). 

They were painted when we bought the house 15 years ago, after peeling/wearing, several years ago I grinded off the surface and repainted with paving paint. Only took a couple years before wearing off again, so now want to resurface with something that will be long lasting as don't want to do it again.

Had thought about stone tiles but will be expensive, a landscaper quoted $30k for stone tiles all the way to front door, yikes, way too expensive. I would be prepared to do it myself (taking my time), using 10mm stone tiles which would probably cost about $5k plus cement/adhesive/sealer & hire of tile cutter (the one that use water so no dust) as there would be lots of cuts. This will still end up quite expensive and take quite a bit of time.

Hoping for any ideas for other products that I could use that will be relatively hard wearing, long lasting and cheaper than tiles. Thought of laying pebbles, another post mentioned MaxPRO pebble resurfacer but Bunning don't seem to carry this product anymore and not sure how it would go on risers.

Also of note, quality of concrete not the best, flights of stairs at top okay (this seems to be better quality concrete) but rest of path seems to have lots of sandstone rocks/rubble, hence quite a few hairline cracks.

I've attached some photos, one showing a bottom step I removed because it was cracked, the stones on step above is what it was made of which I did couple months ago, first 2 photos from couple years ago, paint got a lot worse. After repairing step with new concrete, have grinded back the whole path.

Thanks.

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @synta 

I hear you re having never to want to re do it again after this.  Cost is around $300 per 15L  you will need two coats 2 buckets will cover you and yu will have spare for 10 year mark.

Well i definatly have a high quality soloution as a pathing/driveway an acrilic polymer resin that is uV stable and designrd for raw concrete, Australias  no1  rated concrete sealer.  Many  colours  and a choice of finishers with  anti slip options on steps.

This  will also  paint your walls too 

I will be honest and say in 10 years you may want to refresh the color just to refresh it all.  but that it a simple roller touch up.

Look to Nu Tech  -  Concrete  coatings      https://nutechpaint.com.au/

Naterally  you know you need to reform the cement egdes and  fill the cracks with outdoor no more gaps or sikka flex pro plus   I would take you  old  paint off with an agressive abrasive disk back to raw concrete,

Well do your research and see if you like this option.

Iam  planningon this to redo my faux concrete  drive way.

[synta]

Hi @Jewelleryrescue , thanks for reply.

Had been put off by worn painted surface and not confident about adhesion on the old concrete. Admittingly I didn't put down a good primer prior to painting with Bergers Jet Dry, it may have helped with better bonding, moisture also does rise up which probably also doesn't help. Definitely a lot cheaper and quicker than tiles.

Will look into Nu Tech products and will get in touch as to what they may recommend. 

[EricL]

Hello @synta 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about how to resurface your path and stairs.

My first suggestion is to secure the strength of your path and stairs. Any weak spots must be shored up with concrete. For long term coverage, I suggest using outdoor tiles. Tiles are like a first line of defence from the elements, it protects the concrete from rain and sunshine, it diverts water away from the path and does not hold or absorb it.

If anchored properly to its base it can provide a long service life. Should you decide to use tiles, it's important that it be glued and sealed properly.  

The next step up from tiles is Outdoor Paver 60 x 60 x 2cm Porcelain. These types of pavers will not absorb water and can take strong impacts and overloads. Between the tile and the paver, the paver is far superior in strength.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[synta]

Thanks Eric, I'll have a look at those products, though would the 20mm porcelain tiles be considerably harder to cut than stone and could you cut the 20mm porcelain with manual tile cutter rather than wet saw? 

Still considerably expensive compared to other options and I suppose it just comes down to choice of tiles as to how much I'm prepared to pay per sq meter if doing it myself and the one you included in link is a third the cost of other tiles I've seen.

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @synta 

I like your curved steps I have had the same type of issues as you over the years. Looking back at I figured it was just old paint so I left it. Once I started replacing paths and changing things I found that root cause was the shoddy "fill" that they had used on the steps, it allowed water to pool and seep so the paint would fleck off... As soon as I saw you third picture it brought it back to me

As @EricL suggests, the concrete issue needs to be sorted first before anything. Id go as far as to take a small round hammer and using the rounded side "tap" the concrete and listen for hollow sounds. My pathways had them everywhere (I didnt tap, I just dug up and then found them)

I would fix each step as you find if its got that hollow sound not pull out the whole lot that would be a pain. 

To throw in some other ideas instead of tiles.... 

You know that dotted foot gripping squares you see at lights/railway stations to show edges, some form of product like this?

The small discs that are stuck to the concrete to provide gripping. Surface could be painted and these added afterwards, there should be no wear on the paint as the dots will take it.

For the steps, I was thinking along the lines of a steel grill, think steel strips about 1 cm apart with square edge to attache to the concrete so they dont shift. (cowcatcher type deal) A local welding company may be able to help out or a mens shed in your area?) 

The last idea and the idea I like the most is a low line decking idea, a cheats way of doing it if you like. 

No bearers but using rubber strips under merbau slats, A lot of people have asked about low decks and this is the closest I can come up with, Do not guarantee it would work long term but its a different solution. Please note there will be little air being able to circulate so something to consider.

So the black under the red is rubber stripping much like you would use on joists something to keep the timber off the concrete direct, you could also use compressed rubber squares instead.

The red is merbau slats

The green is merbau slats

The reason I have laid them this way is to allow water to drain down the steps and not build up behind the timber

Id hose the area (you probably already know without knowing lol)  and watch for the fall of water, make sure the base slats dont block your run off.

I would bolt the red slats down through the black rubber wither end with concrete screws/anchors, 

If you dont like the idea of bolting these are big enough to sit on the steps, you could get a "feel" if you like them?

So 19mm + 19mm + 6mm for the compressed rubber, makes it around 44mm higher, the bottom most concrete may beed a "fake" one just to keep the heights all the same.

I actually might try this idea myself... 

Dave

[synta]

Hi @Dave-1,

Thanks for some different options, timber certainly wasn't something I would have thought of, definitely and option to consider, and appreciate your explanation on how to lay it, and the rubber base makes sense.

Job started out with intention of cleaning out & filling just the cracks on the 3 bottom steps with Betta Concrete Crack Filler (great concrete filler, liquid really sink down into crack), started chipping more of the crack away and ended up removing 1st and 3rd steps completely 😩.

Ended up leaving out the 1st step (as it's on the verge but will raise the ground in front), the 3rd one (now 2nd) filled with concrete and some reo bars, ended up pretty solid.

All paint now off, used a flat diamond disk, and most cracks filled, maybe just some hairline ones left. A bit hesitant to go tapping the rest with hammer though, I guess better to do it now rather than wait for potential problems later on. 

[Dave-1]

Evening @synta 

I cant even smile in commiseration about the steps, Mine where put in by "Dodgy Bro Inc" and when I started pulling them apart there was no base to the bessa blocks, just soil.....  Bahahahah I like your style and glad you have repaired them Hope they dont sound hollow (Even if they do, shrug, you know what to do now for next time ) Thats the one think I tell myself when I am repairing something, at least If I do it, I know what to expect.

Dave

[EricL]

Hi @synta 

Yes, it will require hiring the wet saw at the store to cut the tiles or pavers. I picked those materials as they are possibly the strongest you can put outside and provide you with a long service life. Compromising on the materials might not be the best option if in a few years the tiles start to crack. 

Using the strongest materials, you should at least get a minimum of ten years of service on the condition that nothing gets dropped on them such as a stray coconut.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[synta]

Hi @Dave-1 , certainly frustrating when dodgy work done then covered to look nice, then the next person has to deal with it. I did think of pulling the lot up, at least the part to front of house before it winds around up the stairs (thankfully these are in good nick) but that idea was short lived for how long I took taking out those steps and doing the repairs and the cracks that I've put the filler in seems to be working.

Am leaning towards the tiles if I can get a good price (cost was main reason for looking at something else) as that extra thickness of a hard surface may provide that bit of extra strength, and to keep some as spares if any do end up cracking. Though I still like your idea of the wood and do have another area where I might use it.