How to re-lay a timber deck?

[Coaster]

Hi Legends. I did a search and couldn't see a result so asking the brains trust.

I have an outdoor deck that looks like grey box. It's swollen over the years but has stopped and seems to have stabilised in width (I've watched over summer and winter and there is very small swelling now). The problem is that it has taken up the space that was left between each board.

The condition of the boards is pretty good and they could easily be reused as they're not bowed or warped and not at all rotten. I'd like to reuse them (the deck is massive so it would be a decent saving). It's also beautiful timber so a real shame to replace or throw out.

So my question is how do I deal with the current holes in the joists or the broken screws in the joist? If I relay using an 8mm gap are the new screws going to be too close to the old ones/ holes? Should I rip the first board so the holes align further away from the current holes/ screws?

Cheers,

Coaster

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Coaster,

Would you mind adding an image of the problem area so our member can take a look at it for you? From your previous discussion, if that is the same deck, your gaps look perfect, and the timber is in great condition; it only requires oiling as it is dry. Typically, you might consider relaying a deck if the gaps have disappeared entirely, and due to the boards being hard up against each other, they are starting to decay, water can't drain through, or they are beginning to bow upwards. Relaying a huge deck would be the last resort.

Regarding your question, that really depends on how close the screws fall to the previous holes. It would be best to install them into fresh timber and not the sides of the old holes. If the deck was originally laid with a 5mm gap and you relaid with an 8mm, that should be enough to offset the fixings. You'll find out when you go to lay the first board. Offsetting the first board by 10mm would solve the issue, or as you mentioned, you could rip it down 10mm.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Coaster]

Hi MitchellMC. 
Apologies I shot off on holidays (rather than fixing my deck!). 

I’ve attached a photo. While the decking is pretty weathered when I lift it it’s still in good nick. The thing is it now stays at this width so doesn’t shrink. It’s really nice timber so would like to reuse!

Cheers,

Coaster

[MitchellMc]

They are very close together @Coaster. They must have been originally installed with a very small gap to swell like this and not leave any gap at all.

I'm in two minds here. Having no gap like this will lead to a shortened lifespan as water can not drain freely. However, lifting them and adding a gap would be an incredible amount of work, but ultimately, that will be the best course of action. 

You could sand them back as is (they definitely need to be sanded to remove the greying and restore their finish) and ensure you oil frequently, at least once a year. If you keep the oil up to them that will help extend their lifespan, but I'm unsure how long that will be without gaps.

Mitchell

[Coaster]

Thanks Mitchell. Michael appreciated. 

it’s a shame. Great timber that swelled almost immediately and filled 7mm gaps. Suppliers wouldn’t replace even though it clear it wasn’t dried properly. 

Once it swelled though it’s stayed like this so I think it’s stabilised. I have a few weeks off over summer so it might be a summer job.

What gap would you recommend setting these back down at? 8mm?

Cheers,

Coast

[MitchellMc]

A gap of between 5 and 8mm would be sufficient @Coaster.

Mitchell

[Coaster]

Thanks mate. With this experience I might go 8mm.