How to build a Breeze block wall?

[roseche]

 

Hello! I am obsessed with these blocks, but unsure how to build a wall with them? previous blocks I have seen have a channel for rebar, but the bunnings ones are flat on all sides, do you just use mortar and that’s it?

[bodega]

Hi @Jewelleryrescue and @MitchellMc 

Me again (sorry).

Just wanted to confirm which size Trench Mesh I use for my footing before I order the concrete pour.

Measurement of concrete footing is 1600mm (L) x 300mm (W) x 400mm (Height/Depth).

Was looking at the Jack trench mesh which is 1.8m x 200mm, and has 8mm wires with 4mm cross wires.

Is the 8mm/4mm going to be the right size bars for this type of footing or should I use something more heavy weight?

Thanks again.

[EricL]

Hi @bodega 

I often over engineer my projects; I suggest using Australian Handyman Supplies 12mm x 2m Reinforcing Round Bar. It's relatively easy enough to make your own trench mesh by cutting a few bars down and fixing them in place with galvanized wire. If your breeze block wall is going to be more than 1.6 meters tall, it will require stronger steel support. 

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @bodega 

sorry mate I being under the weather and couldnt think straight had a massive tooth infection  my face still sore and swollen as hell but offending tooth is gone.  I am still sore but typing away again

The steel mesh you said 8mm is great. you only need heavier if you driving trucks on a drive way etc. 

So for you  project of 1400mm  wide I would buy 2 sheets of  1.8m x 200mm mesh and over lap them which will give you 2x8 mm in the centre so 16mm of steel.

I would place cut the steel around the post so the  mesh goes to with in 30mm of the end . To fit the steel over the post you can cut the inner wires to allow the post position.,

   Some times it is easier to lay 1x mesh between the two posts and then cut up a 2nd sheet into like edging strips to go each side of the post and a small cross bit  at the very ends of post if it will fit. 

The idea is to get a webbing of steel in your cement that aids in load support.  

it is not just the thickness of the bar that counts  but the webing effect means if one section has a tree root growing under it pulls againts all the steel in the web making the wall 10x stronger.   And even if the cement cracks it is still functional strong.

Hope this post gets to you in time,

[bodega]

Doing gods work @Jewelleryrescue,

Appreciate the response and thanks for getting back.

Hope you're feeling better! 

[bodega]

Hi @Jewelleryrescue ,

Thought I'd send a quick update.

We are right near the tail end of the project - 5 out of 6 rows have been laid and we're looking good!

Before I send photo updates, wanted to run by you how to properly mount the top of my frame to the timber post on the sides of my wall?

Currently, my side posts are 90mm x 90mm and I plan to put the same timber post on the top of the frame to cap things off. I will get it cut in store and this is the brand I purchased for the side posts.

I need your help with - what screws to use, and what drill piece I'll need to actually get through these pieces - none of my drill pieces have the length to get through the first 90mm??

Wall is looking great, just at this final hurdle. Have attached an embarrassingly bad sketch to explain what I mean.

Thanks again.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @bodega,

I trust @Jewelleryrescue will get back to you shortly, but in the interim, I'd recommend using a Sutton Tools 6.0mm Long Series Jobber Drill Bit to pre-drill your top horizontal post and then also to pre-drill your upright posts for the first 50mm. The posts can be fixed together with at least two, preferably three, Buildex 18 - 7 x 200mm Landscaping Construction Screws on each joint.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @bodega 

Excellent   progress I was  wondering how you  where getting on.

Your  drawing is   absoulutly fine @bodega  it conveys your information your need to get your question answered and tradies  and DIYers have  being doing mud map sketches forever on building materials scrapes of paper and box lids.  I bet if you turned a  stone over on the  pyramids you will  find a drawing explaining how they built it  lol as they had to show the workers  how to do it.

Ok  Your timber is a  picture frame encapsulating the brick work and they support each other and the brick work ends  protected.

All you  need to  do is  join the timber top bit to the lower uprights. 

I would  use long coach bolts for that 2 per post should be more than  enough  Drilling in at the side of the top rail into the timber post below.

It is not hard to do  but let me out line the steps and  materials and tools.

Coach  bolts  

4 x Zenith M10 x 150mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Hex Head Coach Screw

I/N: 2449420    $1.94

4 x Zenith M10 Hot Dipped Galvanised Washer  I/N: 2442070  0.28

USE  M10 washers  1 per  bolt   it helps weather proof  the  timber  from water incursion.   

Extra long drill bit

Sutton Tools 5.0mm Long Series Jobber Drill Bit I/N: 6353673  $13.75

Thoughts 

The idea is to pre drill holes through the top of the cross beam that align with the meaty wood cross section of the 2 upright posts.  (We dont want screws near the  post sides. as they are weaker there  and may poke out.). So  We  pre drill the holes for the bolts to easy screw  through  and then all you have to  do is Optionally pre  paint post ends.  Next sit cross beam into place on top of posts aligning  pre drilled  holes and screw coach bolt down with a  shifter spanner or a socket set or other tool (dont forget washers.)  

The  bolts are on the top so they are not  easy seen.

Coach  bolts displace alot of timber when we screw them in  and will cause the timber to expand and  split. So its  best to pre drill a hole as deep as you can for the coach bolt.  I would also partly drill the second timber starting point as well so only the coach bolt  threads into the timber with out splitting it.

Drill diameter is roughly 50% bolt dia where the screw thread is If  alll you have is  short regular drill bits  go as  deep as you can,  Some times I try my luck and drill from the bottom to meet the top  hole .  It nevers works but  this dose create space  for entering bolt to displace timber a bit .

Hope  this   helps you .

[bodega]

Thanks so much @Jewelleryrescue and also @MitchellMc .

All makes sense, will follow your instuctions and awesome graphic. Thanks again for explaining so well.

Hopefully have some finished photos for you!

Thanks again.

[hopeaotearoa]

Hi. I am clearly a complete novice. Can we build a breeze block wall on to a deck instead of a railing? 

[JacobZ]

Hi @hopeaotearoa,

Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you join us.

Would it be possible for you to upload some photos of the location you are looking to put a breeze block wall? This will help our members better understand what you are trying to achieve and offer assistance where possible.

Assuming the deck you are referring to is up off the ground and made of timber, I am not aware of a method suitable for constructing a block wall in this way. 

Block walls require a footing of concrete be poured with reinforcing bar used to tie the wall into the footing securing it in place. I'm not aware of a method that would be suitable for the application you have described but am happy to contact our suppliers for advice when they reopen on Monday.

In the meantime, allow me to tag @Jewelleryrescue to see if they have any thoughts that might help.

Jacob