Hi all, I thought I would share my latest project - a deck ay my daughter's unit. I gained some inspiration reading other people's ideas on how to build a low profile deck and it helped me greatly. My take on this was a little different from other posts because I decided to use a screw pedestal system as the "bearers" for the joists. There were a number of reasons, the main being that the concrete paths and brick paving had moved over time and there was a lot of variation in the base height. It would have been a real pain using brackets bolted in the concrete path and achieving a constant level for the joists. Another is that the pedestal system is very easy to work with and can be screwed up or down to achieve the desired height. I ended up using a Buzon DPH-2 from Pascoe Constructions along with with a DPH-KIT5 joist holder. The cost was very reasonable at $5.18 +gst for the pedestal and $1.65 + gst for the joist holder. This pedestal has a height range of 35 - 53 mm. There are other sizes to choose from. They are incredibly strong each having a breaking load of 1460kg. The difficulty I had was finding an answer to was how many per joist would I need. The most acceptable answer was that based on a 90 x 45 H3 MGP10 joist the maximum spacing for a bearer would be 1.2m . My deck is 2.1m wide and 2.7m wide so there are 3 pedestals on the 2.1 joists and 4 pedestals on the 2.7 joists. Joists are 450mm apart and the decking is Merbau 90 x 19.
I miscalculated the actual variations in the path level and in some cases I needed to raise the pedestals by using a brick paver underneath or some villaboard sandwiched between two layers or damp course.
I intend to seal the deck with Intergrain Ultra Deck Natural.
One thing to note is that you can see the pedestals poking out at each end. I will build a step to cover these. The other way is to have a double joist at each end about 8cm apart and use the innermost joist for the pedestal supports so the endmost joist hides the pedestal - like a small overhang.
Some photos....
Solved! See most helpful response
Hi @MGusto,
It's great to see you've taken inspiration from the community and acted on it so spectacularly. Your deck looks amazing, and I trust you're suitably proud of your efforts.
Many thanks for giving us a comprehensive rundown of the items you used. I trust they will be helpful for our other members wishing to build their own deck.
I look forward to seeing your deck once the finished coat of sealer is applied.
Great work.
Mitchell
Hello @MGusto
What an amazing fantastic build. I do not make light of your efforts but looking at the photos it seems like its something even I can build! You've really inspired me and I will keep your build in my bookmarks for a possible project in the future! Thank you for sharing your diy build.
Cheers,
Red
I am a Bunnings team member. Any opinions or recommendations shared here are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Bunnings. Visit the Bunnings website for assistance from the customer service team.
amazing step by step photos, good reminder for me to add similar project to this summer.
Thank you 👏
Many thanks for the wonderful feedback @jnshah85. I'm sure @MGusto really appreciates it. We're certainly looking forward to seeing your summer project. Let us know if you need a hand with the planning.
Let me extend a very warm elcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're really pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading about your decking adventure and all of your other projects and plans. We're sure you will get loads of helpful information, advice and inspiration from our amazing community members. Please don't hesitate to post anytime you have something to share with the community or need a hand with anything around the house and garden.
Jason
An update.. I have applied 3 coats of Intergrain Ultra Deck, created 2 sets of steps one for each end that hides the pedestals and erected a merbau screen to frame the deck. I intend to buy another screen for the other side - just figuring the best way to secure it. I think I will sink a 40 x 40 galv rhs on the corner of the deck and use this to secure the panel. Because the innermost top section of the panel is unsecured there is a little movement at the top. If anyone can suggest any bracing technique that would be much appreciated. The outer top section is secured to the wall via a 100 x 150 galv bracket dynabolted into the wall. A couple of photos
Beautifully done @MGusto. The colour is gorgeous.
@MitchellMc will be happy to offer suggestions when he's back on the site tomorrow.
I'm sure plenty of community members will be looking to your project for inspiration, so thanks for updating us along the way.
Stevie
Hello @MGusto
Any chance we can secure that 40x40 with some post mix cement? By securing the bottom of the post you won't have to brace the post to anything else giving it a streamlined look. The average rule is that a quarter of the post should be burried and reinforced with post mix. I think this would provide you with better long term fixing rather than bracing it in an ungainly manner.
Cheers,
Red
I am a Bunnings team member. Any opinions or recommendations shared here are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Bunnings. Visit the Bunnings website for assistance from the customer service team.
Thank you for the advice Red. This was my thinking too, rather than "involve" the fence with a bracket. I have a spare 2400 post lying around that should do nicely - 600 in the ground 1800 for support. That takes care of the left side of the panel closet to the fence and the base of the panel I will secure with a couple of mending plate brackets attached to the side of the deck. (like I did with the panel I have just installed) It is just the "orphaned " top corner where the walkway is that is unsecured and suffers from some movement
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