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How to stain a Pine desk?

Aardit
Finding My Feet

How to stain a Pine desk?

Hi 

 

I have used pine wood to make study desk and used stain paint but I noticed the surface is very rough. It is not smooth. What am I doing wrong? I want to keep the natural wood color. Any suggestions!!!!!! I have attached the pic he stain I have used.

 

1649471047542334244233933489757.jpg

Upcycler01
Having an Impact

Re: pine wood paint

do you mean the surface is bubbling from the stain or the actual wood feel roughs? 

Re: pine wood paint

Hi @Upcycler01 

Initially pine was smooth but after the stain it is like bubbling or rough.

 

Thanks

Re: pine wood paint

I had this happen on one of my first pieces I’d stained, I used a foam roller and it causes air bubbles. It was a massive 10 seater table I could not be bothered to resand it so I left it. I think the only solution to get rid of them is to resand and start again. If you do resand try applying the stain with a sponge, I use a sponge to apply varnish and it stops it going streaky or bubbly. Hopefully another member might have a quicker/easier way to fix but I’ve just found with stain or whitewash you have to sand it back again. 

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Re: pine wood paint

Hi @Aardit,

 

It's great to see that @Upcycler01 has been assisting. It sounds like they could be correct that sanding back the roughness is required. I'd like to hear more about what you used to apply the varnish. Was it a brush or roller? What type and nap thickness did you use if it was a roller? Did you go back over an area to correct mistakes?

 

A common issue for rough finishes of paint or varnishes is touching areas that have already begun to dry. If an area is already drying and you roll over it again to fix a run or un-even patch, your roller will pick up the coating into peaks which will dry and set before they can self-level again. This leads to a rough surface.

 

I'd suggest following the advice here and giving the coating a light sand with something like 180/240-grit sandpaper and then applying a final coat with a sponge paintbrush. I've also always had the best success with them.

 

Please let us know if you have any questions.

 

Mitchell

 

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Re: pine wood paint

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Upcycler01. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for contributing to the discussion.

It sounds like you've got plenty of experience to offer our members. Many thanks for jumping straight in and assisting. We look forward to hearing all about your projects and plans around the house and garden. I trust you'll also find plenty of inspiration within the community contributed by our wonderful members. Please don't hesitate to let us know any time you need assistance or have something to share

 

Mitchell

 

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Re: pine wood paint

Thanks Mitchell, I’m a self taught upcycler, mainly with painted furniture. Can you confirm for me can only projects that use Bunnings products be posted, I paint furniture but I do use a specialty paint so I don’t want to share the pieces if it’s not allowed. Thanks in advance. 

Re: pine wood paint

@Upcycler01,

 

We encourage you to share all of your projects, regardless of where you've sourced the materials.

 

Mitchell

 

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Re: pine wood paint

Hi,

 

I just bought Specrite 2400 x 900 x 33mm Timber Multi Use Pine Panel. I'd like to stain the panel. Should I lightly sand the panel before applying stain. What grit sandpaper should I use? I'd like to retain the natural color of the pine panel? Should I use a water-based or oil-based stain? What stain color should I use? Kindly advise, please.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Re: pine wood paint

Hi @FXMV,

 

That is a raw panel, so the only reason why you'd sand before the coating is if the finish was rough at all. You could lightly go over it with 240-grit sandpaper, but I suspect it will be quite smooth already.  

 

Stains are used to change the colour of timber, so if you're looking to retain the Pine's natural colouring, you'd use a varnish instead. I recommend water-based Cabots Cabothane and use it regularly. It's hard-wearing, easy to clean up, doesn't smell, and will retain that natural look you're going for.

 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

Mitchell

 

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