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All right, here we go. Planning another project 
I am getting the asbestos containing internal wall and ceiling lining removed from two bedrooms and so I need to reline with Gyprock.
Haven’t never done this I have few newbie questions:
- I’ve seen few install videos and they always put an offcut under a sheet to form a gap between floor and sheet. How is this gap sealed? Or you are supposed to leave it and cover it with skirting boards?
- How do I work around existing window casings/sills and door frames?
- We have got exposed beams as seen in the attached photo. How does one plaster around those?
- Insulation - can I put battens into the wall cavity from the inside even though there is no vapour barrier between behind the cladding?
Any advise is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Tom
That’s great, I’ll go check other profiles out in store later this week. I’m sure I’ll find something. Is there supposed to be a gap between ceiling and wall sheets or can it be flush?
Getting ready to order plasterboard and trying to figure out what sizes. I understand that bigger sheets are better to minimise number of joins one has to patch but due to access issues to both of the rooms I won’t be able to get in bigger than 2.4. Maybe 2.7 but probably 2.4 to be in the safe size. Would you be able to recommend the correct address size and number of sheets I need to order? I’ve attached rooms measurements. Thanks!!!’
Hi @tom138,
Typically, plaster sheets are laid horizontally. For the office, you'll need two Gyprock CSR 2400 x 1200 x 10mm 2.88sqm Plasterboard RE per wall and two Gyprock CSR 2400 x 1200 x 13mm 2.88sqm Plasterboard RE for the ceiling and then an extra sheet of the 10 and 13mm to fill in the additional gaps. For the bedroom, you'll need the same, but a bit more extra to fill gaps as the room is larger. So, as a rough estimate, I'd suggest 18 of the 10mm sheets and around six of the 13mm sheets. That should get you pretty close to the mark.
Mitchell
Thanks @MitchellMc .
Well this project has suddenly become quite real:
It looks quite daunting when you see it like this anyways no way back now, the only thing to do is to try to make the house liveable again.
The good news is that the studs are 90mm so I’ll be able to use Earthwool R2.7 batts as planned but the roof cavity is only about 75mm. That won’t fit even the thinnest of roof batts and the only thing I could find that would fit would be R2.0 Earthwool wall batts. Are there any other options? Is that even a good idea? Is there meant to be a gap between the roof and the ceiling?
edit: looking at options and perhaps Foilboard 25mm provides better thermal properties than R2.0 wall batts?
Thankful for any advise, as always!
Evening @tom138
Oh yeah! Nervous but excited. Cant help out on knowledge of insulation but cant wait to see your plaster go up!
Dave
Hello @tom138
My apologies for the late reply. I've called up Earthwool's technical department and the good news is that you can use Earthwool R2.0 75 x 580 x 1160mm 13.46m² HD Insulation Wall Batt for ceiling insulation purposes. In a nutshell the wall batts are the all-rounder product for Earthwool, but the ceiling batts can't be used for wall applications.
The majority of roof frames are either gabled or skillion in configuration so in essence there would be a gap between the batts and the roof. But since you only have a space of 75mm then it will have to be occupied by the insulation.
In my opinion the batts provide better coverage of the ceiling cavity and provide acoustic insulation as well which your neighbours will appreciate. It's easier to handle and install, it can also be easily cut with a Craftright 18mm Snap Off Knife.
Please remember to wear personal protections such as appropriate clothing, gloves, goggles and an N95 rated mask or higher. Please make sure to follow all the safety guidelines printed at the back of the packaging.
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the insulation installed.
Eric
Hi @EricL,
Thanks for getting back to me. I am a bit worried about condensation issues if I don’t leave any gap. Another solution suggested to me was to use a 50mm rigid insulation product normally used as underfloor insulation (Kingspan K3). I will have to do a bit more research before committing to a solution.
I will also have to have a carpenter assess the condition of the framing as it is rotten in few places (especially below a window that had a leak). In the meantime I am thinking how to fix these gaps in the floor:
They are where the floor meets the wall frame and they are quite big - 1-2cm in some places. You can actually see into the garage below! Do you have any suggestion how to seal these gaps?
Thanks,
Tom
Afternoon @tom138
The gap will be sealed by the plaster width and then the skirting boards width 
Freaky I know! When I removed my skirting boards in preperation of having the floorboards sanded I couldnt believe how much of a breeze came through. Once I replaced the skirting boards all was fine, no breeze and no access from below for any four legged friends I could actually see the light I had left on downstairs when the boards were removed!
Dave
Hi @tom138
The store does have Kingspan insulation, but I suspect that the K3 will need to be specially ordered. Allow me to check its availability and get back to you.
In regards to the gap I would go with @Dave-1's recommendation. But if it is really bothering you, I suggest using Sika 850ml Sika Boom Expanding Foam. It will fill up any gap and it can be trimmed down with snap-off knife.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
